Blew my stock clutch hydraulics by bleeding.

[Ponchopwr70]

Looks like my ram will be getting the upgrade hydraulics. I bought this truck with 17k just hit 23k and figured I would flush the brakes and clutch. Well when I cracked open the bleeder no fluid came out so I hooked up my mighty vac gave a few pumps and still nothing, gave it a few more and a bunch of white paste came out (I could see it in my clear tube.) So I keep refilling the master and sucking fluid out. When I was done, went and hit the pedal, went to the floor 3 times. I figured I had air in the system, nope, I saw all the fluid pouring out from between the bellhousing. I can't believe that happened. This is not my first time dealing with a system like this, I run a Howe t.o bearing with wilwood master in my lemans never had a problem bleeding that one. So I'm heavily leaning towards the jtsvp kit cheaper than the roe but I can't tell if it has the factory pedal switch. Anyone have any input on this?

 

[SRT2SLOW]

Looks like my ram will be getting the upgrade hydraulics. I bought this truck with 17k just hit 23k and figured I would flush the brakes and clutch. Well when I cracked open the bleeder no fluid came out so I hooked up my mighty vac gave a few pumps and still nothing, gave it a few more and a bunch of white paste came out (I could see it in my clear tube.) So I keep refilling the master and sucking fluid out. When I was done, went and hit the pedal, went to the floor 3 times. I figured I had air in the system, nope, I saw all the fluid pouring out from between the bellhousing. I can't believe that happened. This is not my first time dealing with a system like this, I run a Howe t.o bearing with wilwood master in my lemans never had a problem bleeding that one. So I'm heavily leaning towards the jtsvp kit cheaper than the roe but I can't tell if it has the factory pedal switch. Anyone have any input on this?

use the roe kit.. trust me. it will save you more cash and headaches later on. good luck with your choice.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

All our kits will include a pedal switch sir.
But...I don't think your hydraulics are shot
The fluid comes out of the bellhousing area while bleeding via gravity bud.
If you've let air into the master you'll need to bleed the master. Easiest way to find out is disconnect line by slave by using a couple screwdrivers to press plastic collar all around towards slave.pull line out!
Now go inside can and press pedal. Should be rock hard and not move. If not you'll need to bleed master. If hard and no pedal travel, reconnect line and bleed slave. Never let reservoir empty of fluid or you'll introduce air into the system. No need for might vac, crack bleeder with 5/16 and gravity bleed.

 

[Ponchopwr70]

So I tried bleeding the system again, I had my fiancé push the pedal when I cracked the bleeder a few times, then had her pump it and I cracked it a few more times. Clear fluid comes out no bubbles. But still no pedal. So I disconnected the line into the slave and the pedal is still dead. So I'm assuming my master is blown or full of air. How do I bleed just the master?

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

So I tried bleeding the system again, I had my fiancé push the pedal when I cracked the bleeder a few times, then had her pump it and I cracked it a few more times. Clear fluid comes out no bubbles. But still no pedal. So I disconnected the line into the slave and the pedal is still dead. So I'm assuming my master is blown or full of air. How do I bleed just the master?

Get a couple bottles of dot3 brake fluid. Fill a bowl up (that you'll never eat from, lol) about halfway with brake fluid. Disconnect line again and bring it to top side in engine compartment. Either use a tiny screwdriver, or I stick a tiny screw in the hose end to hold valve open and submerge in bowl. Open reservoir and keep close to full ledge. 3/8" below top. You'll see air bubbles come out in bowl once you raise bowl and submerged line above reservoir height. While submerged, release valve closed by removing screw that you pushed in earlier. Keep testing pedal until it's rock hard. Then reconnect and bleed at slave a little. ALWAYS KEEP RESERVOIR FULL!!

 

[viperhauler]

i'm not convinced you need a new slave or master, either - though it's possible.

for whatever reason, these systems are pretty finnicky and obviously if you've got any air in there it isn't going to work.

i've never had success in anything i've owned with the gravity bleed (mostly because i'm impatient) so i hook up the electric bleeder and it works every time.

are you sure you have stock hydraulics?

 

[Ponchopwr70]

Venomous 1 thank you for the help. I'm going to bleed the master tomorrow night. I think I just got air in the master being impatient. I'm pretty sure this is stock, the guy I bought the truck from was honest and gave me the whole history and I asked him about it. I did have to do the oil lines, it looks like this truck was not messed with at all. I'll try a few more things and let everyone know how I make out.

 

[yellowfever#154]

If you end up needing to replace it.........

I have Tony's clutch release system in my rig and Im satisfied. It operates my RAM twin disc so easily that a baby could push in the pedal.

 

[sinus19]

Sounds exactly like the problem i had. I did Venomous1 procedure and the pedal sunked. Replaced the master and Bingo. $80 item from my local part store.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

more than likely its build up in the lines, flush it all, replace the master if you can find a decent one, and you should be good.or just give us a call

 

[Ponchopwr70]

Hey I ended up getting it to work, I brought the line up to the engine bay, held the valve open at the end of the line and put in a cut Gatorade container of fluid. I had my 10 year old pump the pedal and keep adding to the master utill I had no air. Removed the bolt from hose end and out of the bottle, pedal was rock hard. Connected it up bled the slave and bingo pedal went back to normal. Thanks for the help everyone. I'm still going to replace the factory hydraulics just not right now maybe in the spring. After all the research I put into this, I'm not to fond of the stock stuff.

 

[Theol55]

Glad to see you got it working again and at little expense.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Hey I ended up getting it to work, I brought the line up to the engine bay, held the valve open at the end of the line and put in a cut Gatorade container of fluid. I had my 10 year old pump the pedal and keep adding to the master utill I had no air. Removed the bolt from hose end and out of the bottle, pedal was rock hard. Connected it up bled the slave and bingo pedal went back to normal. Thanks for the help everyone. I'm still going to replace the factory hydraulics just not right now maybe in the spring. After all the research I put into this, I'm not to fond of the stock stuff.

What'd I tell ya
Glad she's good again

 

[Ponchopwr70]

So after a few weeks of getting the pedal back, I been noticing a change in feel, and a clicking noise when shifting fast. I went under the dash to see what I could find and noticed the master is wet. Also noticed a made in Mexico sticker on that plastic pos so I'm done with the factory hydraulics. I went ahead and ordered the wilwood/viper kit from jtsvp. I will be installing within the next two weeks. I feel this is the only way to go, I've never had problems with wilwood before and I'm just not fond of plastic masters.