Blown Rear End

John Stuttle

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Well I finally got the M&H slicks fitted and went to the track last nite.

Launched the first run at 3500 and bogged some.

Launched the second run at 4800 and blew the rear end out.

Oh well I wanted 4:88's anyway

john
 
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I told you those tires are sticky!! Top-of-The-Line!!

Sounds like you had a previous issue with your rear-end already, Ive launched @ 6000rpm many many times and never broke the rear-end.

-Red
 
Got Traction?

WOW^MOM

Sorry to hear about your rear end. I am curious as to what let loose inside the diff.
4.88's will improve the 60ft times and make that bad boy run harder.
Are you supercharged?
 
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Red - I have never had any issues with the rear until last night. But them I have never really had any traction until last night either!


Juan - it is a RC

FSTJACK - I have not taken it apart yet. I think it either snaped an axle or the pinion gear. No blower on this one. Dynoed at 477 RWHP with my mods.
 
this happened to Vprpwr.....He was doing his burn outs with out a Line-lock...may have contributed to the failure....during his last burn out before the failure he was peg legging during the burn out....I always adjust my mirrors so I can see the tires during the burn out...
 
Srt10Addict said:
how do u peg leg.. why would only one be spinning and not both:dontknow:

without a line-lock you are forced to 'ride' the brake into a burnout, that action can cause the limited slip to apply power unevenly, causing one wheel to spin and burn-out the clutch pack in the differential.

-Red
 
Seems to me like it is not so much a matter of riding the brakes as it is a matter of forcing the clutch packs to slip while all up against one another, thus generated a LOT of heat. That is what is causing the rears to go out, in my opinion. I have had several one legged rear cars that I used the brake method for doing burn-outs. One car was even a 13 second car on slicks. I never had any problems with that car and it was a totally stock c-clip Chevy 8.2" 10-bolt doing this for two full seasons.
It's the darn heat generated by forcing the two tires to spin at different speeds as caused by unequal brake pressure. Sure, the tires probably spin at almost the same speed the first few times you do it. Then, as the clutch packs get more and more glazed and worn out, soon the tires are spinning at way different speeds, and that is why you notice it being so obviously uneven the time or two before the final death blow. Those last few times, the clutch packs, gear oil, axles, spider gears, are all getting soooooo hot that something has to give.
The solution? Install a linelock for under $100,(I need to as well), or just drop the clutch at a reasonably low RPM to get the tires started spinning. Sure, the truck will quickly walk forward as mine does, but that's better than burning up rear end parts. Hope my $.02 helps.

Greg
 
fun2xlr8 said:
Seems to me like it is not so much a matter of riding the brakes as it is a matter of forcing the clutch packs to slip while all up against one another, thus generated a LOT of heat. That is what is causing the rears to go out, in my opinion. I have had several one legged rear cars that I used the brake method for doing burn-outs. One car was even a 13 second car on slicks. I never had any problems with that car and it was a totally stock c-clip Chevy 8.2" 10-bolt doing this for two full seasons.
It's the darn heat generated by forcing the two tires to spin at different speeds as caused by unequal brake pressure. Sure, the tires probably spin at almost the same speed the first few times you do it. Then, as the clutch packs get more and more glazed and worn out, soon the tires are spinning at way different speeds, and that is why you notice it being so obviously uneven the time or two before the final death blow. Those last few times, the clutch packs, gear oil, axles, spider gears, are all getting soooooo hot that something has to give.
The solution? Install a linelock for under $100,(I need to as well), or just drop the clutch at a reasonably low RPM to get the tires started spinning. Sure, the truck will quickly walk forward as mine does, but that's better than burning up rear end parts. Hope my $.02 helps.

Greg
Good info - thanks, man!:) :) :)
 
You're welcome V10togo.
As far as pricing and info, check out summitracing.com You can usually get the line lock, install kit and all instructions for under a hundred bucks. Summit sells several brands, but their generic "summit" brand seems to be the only one that doesn't have the no ABS clause in the description last time I looked. I would call them at 1-800-230-3030 and talk to a tech when you are ready to buy. Their guys are usually very knowledgeable on that sorta stuff. Man, do I sound like a friggin commercial or what? And how about the phone number, didn't even have to look that one up. Can't remember my GF's cell number, but I got summit memorized....lol.:rock:

Greg
 
Anyone who abuses there rearend,eb and anything else in that process of a burnout , one Question why?

Go linelock not to bad of a install and $ 200 max. Your doing way more in damage not to mention damage cost, with a forced burnout. Get a simple line lock from jegs or summit

www.jegs.com
www.summitracing.com
 
John Stuttle said:
Well I finally got the M&H slicks fitted and went to the track last nite.

Launched the first run at 3500 and bogged some.

Launched the second run at 4800 and blew the rear end out.

Oh well I wanted 4:88's anyway

john

John,

Was that at IRP Tuesday night? I meet a kid in a L at Dooley O'Tooles Hot Rod Wednesdays last night that reported seeing a SRT-10 blowout the rear end.

If you're local to Indy, we should hookup.
 

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