Blown Rear End

Philip - yes that was me. The guy in the L helped me transport my street tires. Nice guy who just offered to help out of the blue.

I live on the notheast side at Giest Resevoir. Shoot me an email at [email protected] and see if we can get together sometime.

john
 
fun2xlr8 said:
Seems to me like it is not so much a matter of riding the brakes as it is a matter of forcing the clutch packs to slip while all up against one another, thus generated a LOT of heat. That is what is causing the rears to go out, in my opinion. I have had several one legged rear cars that I used the brake method for doing burn-outs. One car was even a 13 second car on slicks. I never had any problems with that car and it was a totally stock c-clip Chevy 8.2" 10-bolt doing this for two full seasons.
It's the darn heat generated by forcing the two tires to spin at different speeds as caused by unequal brake pressure. Sure, the tires probably spin at almost the same speed the first few times you do it. Then, as the clutch packs get more and more glazed and worn out, soon the tires are spinning at way different speeds, and that is why you notice it being so obviously uneven the time or two before the final death blow. Those last few times, the clutch packs, gear oil, axles, spider gears, are all getting soooooo hot that something has to give.
The solution? Install a linelock for under $100,(I need to as well), or just drop the clutch at a reasonably low RPM to get the tires started spinning. Sure, the truck will quickly walk forward as mine does, but that's better than burning up rear end parts. Hope my $.02 helps.

Greg
To add to what you said, another factor that helps to make one tire spin faster than the other (if at all) is the rotational torque through the drivetrain. The torque of the engine through the driveshaft and into the rear end tries to twist the rear end causing the right rear wheel to have less force against the ground and the left rear wheel to have more. If you break torque the engine you are creating more engine torque (because you are fighting against the brakes) causing more 'twisting' torque at the rear end. Line locks will help there too. If this doesn't make any sense sorry :eek: Others can explain it a little better :D
 
RedRamRules said:
Is there any more information regarding line locks (Cost, manufacturer, etc.)? Thanks.
I have used the Hurst line lock on 2 vehicles and it always worked great. I think it's about $100. To activate it I used a hurst T-handle on the shifter with the button in the side of the handle. BTW, this was one of the first mods I did to my truck.
 

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Any issues with the install? I know that Hurst reccommends that you do not use theirs with an ABS equipped vehicle, so I wounder if you notice any oddities?

Greg
 
Very interesting thread. I had no idea what a line lock was. I also have never done a burnout with the brakes either!

John, get those 4.88's, mine go in on Tuesday!!

patrick
 
I have a line lock on my Duster with no problems, but it does not have ABS.

Bill.
 
Well, yes, I've had a line lock on several older vehicles and they work great. Just wondering what the possible issues are with one on an ABS equipped car, since most of the line lock manufacturers recommend not using with ABS. Anyone know why?

Greg
 
I have not had any issues and I have engaged my ABS after the line-lock installed...no problems

-Red
 
fun2xlr8 said:
Well, yes, I've had a line lock on several older vehicles and they work great. Just wondering what the possible issues are with one on an ABS equipped car, since most of the line lock manufacturers recommend not using with ABS. Anyone know why?

Greg

You may get a ABS light on your dash......that is all....When I pull a wheel off the ground in the GT2....the abs light comes on for 3 ignition cycles then goes out = normal....
 
fun2xlr8 said:
Well, yes, I've had a line lock on several older vehicles and they work great. Just wondering what the possible issues are with one on an ABS equipped car, since most of the line lock manufacturers recommend not using with ABS. Anyone know why?

Greg
Probably more a liability issue, they are covering their a$$. I also had a line lock on my 96 Impala with ABS. Your ABS only functions when it sees a brake switch input and it watches the deceleration speeds of the wheels. I never had a problem on either of my vehicles. Now if you have traction control then it can be a problem. The traction control would have to be completely disabled before using the line lock.
 
Stingray....love the look of the Hurst line lock...was looking at the Summit and the Hurst...so I can get off an order....

Pro's and con's with either of them:dontknow: and install pics / problems / advice is greatly appreciated from those running a line lock. TIA
 

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