Brake and ABS light turned ON

LitemUp

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My Brake and ABS light turned ON tonight driving home. What do you guys think it is? You think the senor went bad in the rearend?
 
pull the bulb out,


honeslty there should be an abs code in it if it did, also check the fluid and pads also jsut in case, theer was somehting else cant remember but kinda tired to
 
Was that on the way home from the track?? You're truck is sweet.....must be the silver or ut could be that sweet sounding s/c!!!!!!!!!
 
Hope this helps:D


BRAKES - ABS
DESCRIPTION
The antilock brake system (ABS) is an electronically
operated, three channel brake control system.
The vehicle has Electronic Variable Brake Proportioning
(EVBP) designed into the system which eliminates
the combination/proportioning valve.
The system is designed to prevent wheel lockup
and maintain steering control during braking. Preventing
lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid
pressure to the wheel brake units.
The hydraulic system is a three channel design.
The front wheel brakes are controlled individually
and the rear wheel brakes in tandem. The ABS electrical
system is separate from other electrical circuits
in the vehicle. A specially programmed controller
antilock brake unit operates the system components.
ABS system major components include:
² Controller Antilock Brakes (CAB)
² Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
² Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS)
² ABS Warning Light
OPERATION
Battery voltage is supplied to the CAB. The CAB
performs a system initialization procedure at start
up. A check of the ABS motor is performed at 15
miles per hour. Initialization consists of a static and
dynamic self check of system electrical components.
The static and dynamic checks occurs at ignition
start up. During the dynamic check, the CAB briefly
cycles solenoids to verify operation. An audible noise
may be heard during this self check. This noise
should be considered normal. The ABS motor and
pump are then checked at a speed of 15 mile per
hour.
If an ABS component exhibits a fault during initialization,
the CAB illuminates the amber warning
light and registers a fault code in the microprocessor
memory.
The CAB monitors wheel speed sensor inputs continuously
while the vehicle is in motion. However,
the CAB will not activate any ABS components as
long as sensor inputs indicate normal braking.
During normal braking, the master cylinder, power
booster and wheel brake units all function as they
would in a vehicle without ABS. The HCU components
are not activated.
The purpose of the antilock system is to prevent
wheel lockup. Preventing lockup helps maintain vehicle
braking action and steering control.
The antilock CAB activates the system whenever
sensor signals indicate periods of wheel slip.
5 - 48 BRAKES - ABS DR
The antilock system prevents lockup during a
wheel slip condition by modulating fluid apply pressure
to the wheel brake units.
Brake fluid apply pressure is modulated according
to wheel speed, degree of slip and rate of deceleration.
Sensors at each front wheel convert wheel speed
into electrical signals. These signals are transmitted
to the CAB for processing and determination of
wheel slip and deceleration rate.
The ABS system has three fluid pressure control
channels. The front brakes are controlled separately
and the rear brakes in tandem. A speed sensor input
signal indicating a wheel slip condition activates the
CAB antilock program.
There are Two solenoid valves (Isolation and Dump
valve) which are used in each antilock control channel.
The valves are all located within the HCU valve
body and work in pairs to either increase, hold, or
decrease apply pressure as needed in the individual
control channels.
During an ABS stop the ISO valve is energized
which acts to prevent further pressure build-up to
the calipers. Then the Dump valve dumps off pressure
until the wheel unlocks. This will continue until
the wheels quit slipping altogether.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
ABS BRAKE BLEEDING
ABS system bleeding requires conventional bleeding
methods plus use of the DRB scan tool. The procedure
involves performing a base brake bleeding,
followed by use of the scan tool to cycle and bleed the
HCU pump and solenoids. A second base brake bleeding
procedure is then required to remove any air
remaining in the system.
(1) Perform base brake bleeding,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Connect scan tool to the Data Link Connector.
(3) Select ANTILOCK BRAKES, followed by MISCELLANEOUS,
then ABS BRAKES. Follow the
instructions displayed. When scan tool displays TEST
COMPLETE, disconnect scan tool and proceed.
(4) Perform base brake bleeding a second time,(Refer
to 5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Top off master cylinder fluid level and verify
proper brake operation before moving vehicle
 
Maybe that's what happens when you spend your entire run trying to keep your ass end from coming around on ya. :D Man, your truck is sick. You've inspired me and also shown me that if you do it right and stay conservative, these trucks can reliably run s/c'd on stock internals.
 
SANTEEN said:
Maybe that's what happens when you spend your entire run trying to keep your ass end from coming around on ya. :D Man, your truck is sick. You've inspired me and also shown me that if you do it right and stay conservative, these trucks can reliably run s/c'd on stock internals.
Yea the truck is badass. We had a little fun on the turnpike on the way home once we got on the right on ramp...lol! The truck sounds sweet with the s/c whining! It just takes off! Sorry I don't know about the abs issue though!
 
I think the rear ABS sensor is kind of common to go bad in these trucks. If so, easy fix. But, your best bet is to pull a code.
 
Alex it sounds crazy but my parking light and abs light came on a few months back and would not go out. There was no code and eventually I narrowed it down to a loose ground by the battery. Check that route first bc the way your truck hops when you shift it may have got something loose.
 
Thanks for the props guys. Had a good time last night even though I couldn't the truck to hook if my life depended on it. I've read a few posts where if the pads are worn down enough it will trigger the ABS and Brake lights in the dash. I looked at my pads today and think that might be my issue. I'm actually over due for a brake job so will do that first and see if it fixes the problem. Hopefully this will fix the problem. The lights actually on the last run we did on the turnpike when I jumped on the brakes cause I was pulling up on a car real hard.
 
Could be a speed sensor. Also, have you ever messed with the abs ring in the rear end? If that ring gets warped just alittle it will cause a light.
 
Yes, I needed to mess with it when I replace my rearend, but its been quite a while since I've changed it and haven't had any issues until now. I can't really see that being the issue.
 
Well the lights went OFF today. I drained out all of the brake fluid from the reservoir. Then filled it back up, went for a spin around the block, and light went off.
 

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