Brake Line Questions

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Kevan

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So, I'm learning how to bend and flare brake lines.
The bending part is pretty simple.

For our trucks, they get: 45 deg. double-flared 3/16" lines.
Double flared means that the tubing is first flared 'outward', then folded back in on itself to produce a slightly stronger flare.

My first questions is:
- Should the clamp part of the flaring tool (the part that holds the tubing in place during the operation) severely score the tubing?
PICTURE
Please disregard the actual flare. I'm more concerned about the clamping marks and re-forming of the line.

"Don't clamp the line so tight in the holder!"
The line must be clamped that tight in order to form the 1st flare.

Is there something that I'm not doing correctly, or something I missed?
Do I have the wrong tool for the job? Is it just a crappy tool?

Any help would be appreciated. TIA
 
I have never done brake lines, but I have flared tubing. The flaring tools I have used did leave marks. However they did not roll up dingleberries like that. Mine always appeared to be radial marks.

Is the clamping sleeve properly sized? It appears to be to small for the tubing OD (based on the marks).

Good luck.
 
I've done several brake lines, never left score marks like that. Is the tooling new or old? I was using a Snap-on flare kit, very good results.
 
Scoring will vary, with the material and the coating.

I have had high dollar double flaring tools and cheap ones and both seem similar, with regard to scoring. Have nerer had any breakage or splitting beacuse of it. It could happen but has not been a problem.
 
Yes- It's in the correct notch (3/16"). The next one up is 1/4" and the tubing won't even touch the sides.

Silverback- I'm with ya. This tubing is thin enough as is, and running 3000-4000 psi through it....I'm not diggin' that. At all.

I found a hydraulic flaring kit. It's about $300. Since I'll probably do about 4 brake lines in my entire life, it's not really worth the investment.

The other thing I found was the phone number to my local Midas. :)
I'm going to cut and shape the lines then head over there and ask if they can flare the ends for me.

Thanks for the input, fellas.
 
Kevan
You one strong muther if you leave it that deep LOL
Most of the cheap ones ,have a problem of slipping not digging.
We do all our lines in house but most shops do not ,I think I would be leary about going to Midas .
My guess is the tubing bender you have has the 3/16 hole just a bit too tight or your doing way too many steroids as I couldnt get that much marring in a vise with a cheater .
Not that these will help but a could tips on flaring : Pre-made line you find in most parts stores are hardened and when cut and re-flared causes the flare to be un-even or crack . If you take a small tourch and anneal the ends this will not happen . If you buy bulk line this is not a problem . I always take a sharpie and mark a line on the bottom side of the clamp piece just to make sure nothing slipped during the first flare I also put a dab of grease on the tip for the first flare and always make sure you have the hole completly cleaned of any burrs .
I would be intrested in how big the hole measures in the holder with it clamped tight as it's either that or your tubing is a bit on the large dimension but I have never seen one that did circular scores that deep and not drag scoring . Mine you can barely feel and surface scoring with your finger nail and what you are showing you could shave with
Mike
 
Mike-
Thanks for the tips.
Those that have met me in person can vouch for me being non-he-man. LOL
If only my strength matched my determination. I'd be Bruce Jenner! :p

Here's a pic of the flaring kit I *was* using:
http://www.tremol-no.com/images/woodblock/SRT-10/linelock/P1010186.JPG
(far right)
It's being returned to Sears/Craftsman tomorrow.

The holes were clear of burrs (used countersink), and I chamfered the outside edge slightly with a hand file.
I tried two different ways of cutting: tube cutter & Dremel tool. The Dremel left a nice smooth cut that didn't really need any deburring.

The stainless tubing was from NAPA stock. It measures 3/16" exactly (0.188"). I did not measure the flaring kit. It's not really necessary considering the damage it did to the tubes. It's obviously too small.

Does anyone know of a bender that does smaller radius bends, and also 180º bends? I searched around but didn't find much. The JEGS one only does 90º.
 
Kevan said:
Mike-
Thanks for the tips.
Those that have met me in person can vouch for me being non-he-man. LOL
If only my strength matched my determination. I'd be Bruce Jenner! :p

Here's a pic of the flaring kit I *was* using:
http://www.tremol-no.com/images/woodblock/SRT-10/linelock/P1010186.JPG
(far right)
It's being returned to Sears/Craftsman tomorrow.

The holes were clear of burrs (used countersink), and I chamfered the outside edge slightly with a hand file.
I tried two different ways of cutting: tube cutter & Dremel tool. The Dremel left a nice smooth cut that didn't really need any deburring.

The stainless tubing was from NAPA stock. It measures 3/16" exactly (0.188"). I did not measure the flaring kit. It's not really necessary considering the damage it did to the tubes. It's obviously too small.

Does anyone know of a bender that does smaller radius bends, and also 180º bends? I searched around but didn't find much. The JEGS one only does 90º.
Click to expand...
I checked the stuff I use and it was close as I used a caliper and not a mic .186 but I would guess it was the flare tool . I use a Rigid and have had it for years and no problems even with the novice guys <G> and it was around a 100$ but I have made up hundreds of feet of tube with some cheap flare tools but they dont seem to last long before they start slipping .
I know of no one who makes a 180 but you can walk the tube around as you bend to get there . When I do the flex loops at the master I just take a piece of 2" pipe and wrap it to get my coils to look uniform .
Mike
 
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