BREAK CHANGE

No, but you should take them and have them turned, or to explain better the put it on a lath and slowly grind off the top section so the new pads will have a good base to adhere to, autozone, napa, advance can do this for ya, for little $
 
thanks alot guys, the dealer is trying to charge me like 900 dollars for the brake change.
 
Do it yourself man. Just changing pads takes about 20 minutes and there are only 2 bolts after you get the wheels off.
If you have to have your rotors turned it's a little more work but still not that bad.:rock:
 
Exactly Miami you can refer to the 05 manual on here its a sticky note, and it will guid you thru it, more than likely I would just change the pads, drive it, see if you feel any vibrations when stopping normal, and if so have them turned, oh and be sure after putting the new pads in to pump the brake pedal a couple times before pulling off.:D
 
miamisrt-10 said:
is it necessary to change the rotors when you are changing breaks?
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There's no way of knowing for sure if they need turned or not until you get started. At a minimum, you need to sand them in a cross hatch pattern with say 150-200 grit sand paper so the new pads will seat and not glaze. Odds are you will not need the rotors turned, I had about 8-9k miles on mine and they are fine. As Stinker said if you don't feel any vibration or shimmy when you hit the brakes, you should be good to go. There are break in directions iwht the pads, follow them...
 
Have to add to Texas Yellow Fever...Clean your rotors with brake cleaner, sand then clean them again. Break-in is VERY important.....read the enclosed procedure with your new pads. A brake pad that is brought up to temperature too fast and not allowed to properly cool down can quickly become glazed and not perform as intended. Proper breakin causes a transfer layer (a thin film of friction material on the surface of the rotor) to be applied to the rotor surface. This will allow the brake pad material to rub against itself rather than having the brake pad rub against the bare rotor. You sand or turn the rotors to remove the old brake pad material and prepare the rotor to accept the new pad material. If you happen to glaze them you'll greatly reduce their effectiveness and only way to fix is to turn the rotors and yes buy new pads though some will argue you can sand the pads/rotors to help restore to new. I've seen many glaze their pads then continue driving pressing harder and harder on the pedal hoping their brakes will bed. This usually results in the pad overheating, delaminating and/or possibly warping the rotors.

Granted most of my braking experience was with my motorcycle racing days but brakes are brakes.
 
Chuck B said:
Have to add to Texas Yellow Fever...Clean your rotors with brake cleaner, sand then clean them again. Break-in is VERY important.....read the enclosed procedure with your new pads. A brake pad that is brought up to temperature too fast and not allowed to properly cool down can quickly become glazed and not perform as intended. Proper breakin causes a transfer layer (a thin film of friction material on the surface of the rotor) to be applied to the rotor surface. This will allow the brake pad material to rub against itself rather than having the brake pad rub against the bare rotor. You sand or turn the rotors to remove the old brake pad material and prepare the rotor to accept the new pad material. If you happen to glaze them you'll greatly reduce their effectiveness and only way to fix is to turn the rotors and yes buy new pads though some will argue you can sand the pads/rotors to help restore to new. I've seen many glaze their pads then continue driving pressing harder and harder on the pedal hoping their brakes will bed. This usually results in the pad overheating, delaminating and/or possibly warping the rotors.

Granted most of my braking experience was with my motorcycle racing days but brakes are brakes.
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Yeah, what he said!!!
 
Blame should be placed directly on the service writer. While I'm fairly certain he didn't "overcharge" for the work to be performed I'm certain he listed work to be done that was not necessarily needed/required at this time. Either way he let his paycheck get in the way of customer service and his own corrupt moral being.

Am I being too harsh?.....nah! The guy was looking at the SRT10 and thought if the customer can afford this vehicle he can afford to have a "complete" brake overhaul performed on his pride and joy. "We'll make it good as new Mr Customer...that'll be $900 thank you very much :mad:
 
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