caliper removal issue

[Prof]

take it to a viper tec and pay him to do it right. no mess. no hassle. no problems.

A man with my sense for how to get it done correctly. I have been known to screw up wet dreams if I have to deal with tools of any kind.

 

[Nowwhat]

DO NOT TURN THESE ROTORS...THEY WILL WARP......buy new ones...

 

[Sharpimage]

DO NOT TURN THESE ROTORS...THEY WILL WARP......buy new ones...

Damn.... thanks for the heads up i'll talk to kevan about the centric rotors..
Zeckhausen is a good guy and got my pads to be hella fast :rock:

also, i'm gonna have to agree with the majority.. i've been screwed so many
times by dropping my car off to dealers it's not even funny.. i posted a while
back about one particular issue.. to sum up the experience, i dropped my truck
off to get my tires mounted and RFB well the shop i brought it to put seven
miles on my truck... i don't care who you are that ignorant right there.. the
dealership was worse.. i asked them to check the TPS sensor.. got it back with
twelve miles on it and with them saying there was no problems..... if i can
do it myself i will :rock::rock::rock:

I suppose it would be smarter to pay for new rotors than screw with the old
ones only to have them warp...

Sharpi

 

[DZeckhausen]

Hey, i got two days off to do my brake system... tommorow i'm getting the
rotors turned and i'm gonna change the pads here shortly... i ordered some
caliper paint and want to take all four calipers off to paint them... well
i went to take them off and i thought i could pinch the brake line where it's
rubber to stop the fluid from draining out the plug where it connects into
the caliper.. that rubber is very hard and i don't want to pinch something
that might not comeback into it's orginal form..:dontknow: so how do you suggest i take
the calipers off my truck completely and not have brake fluid draining out of
the system? :dontknow:

Do not pinch the brake lines or you will damage them. The way to prevent fluid from dripping out after you've disconnected the line from the caliper is to insert a rubber plug that's about the same diameter as the banjo bolt. You may want to have a variety of rubber plugs on hand, since you won't know which one works until you try it. As a last resort, you can stick the banjo bolt through a disposable rubber glove, then insert back into the banjo fitting on the end of your brake line. That may do the trick and stop any dribbling.

Also, make sure you pick up some replacement copper crush washers from your dealer. Those crush washers are single-use items and, if you try to reuse them, you may end up with a fluid leak at the fitting. One crush washer on each side of the banjo fitting on your line.

 

[Prof]

Welcome David!

Second post, and some good technical input...greatly appreciated.

 

[MikeNice]

Since I see David here I would like to take the time to say. THANKS!

The quick response to all my questions, as well as getting my parts
out to me ASAP is a breath of fresh air when it comes to customer service.

Lately, the service I have encountered sucks but the guys at Zeckhausen make be belive there's hope!:love:

Ordered pads yesterday, they'll be here today. Can't wait...

Highly recommend to all.

MN

 

[Sharpimage]

Do not pinch the brake lines or you will damage them. The way to prevent fluid from dripping out after you've disconnected the line from the caliper is to insert a rubber plug that's about the same diameter as the banjo bolt. You may want to have a variety of rubber plugs on hand, since you won't know which one works until you try it. As a last resort, you can stick the banjo bolt through a disposable rubber glove, then insert back into the banjo fitting on the end of your brake line. That may do the trick and stop any dribbling.

Also, make sure you pick up some replacement copper crush washers from your dealer. Those crush washers are single-use items and, if you try to reuse them, you may end up with a fluid leak at the fitting. One crush washer on each side of the banjo fitting on your line.

Thanks for the input David :rock: got a quick question though.. say i wanted
to bleed all four lines and put new fluid in.. if i were to just let the old brake
fluid drip out of the lines untill they were completely empty(say overnight)
would i have any problems the next day? i intend on bleeding them with some
sort of pump or atleast something that can sciphon the fluid out..

let me know,

Sharpi

 

[DZeckhausen]

Thanks for the input David :rock: got a quick question though.. say i wanted
to bleed all four lines and put new fluid in.. if i were to just let the old brake
fluid drip out of the lines untill they were completely empty(say overnight)
would i have any problems the next day? i intend on bleeding them with some
sort of pump or atleast something that can sciphon the fluid out..

I'm a big fan of the traditional 2-person bleed technique, augmented by a few tricks from racing, such as tapping the calipers with a rubber mallet to break free any bubbles that are clinging to the inside. See: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm for some instructions I've written up. Pressure bleeders, vacuum bleeders, and 1-way bleed screws simply don't allow you to jolt the fluid hard enough to flush out all the trapped air bubbles. Having someone stand hard on the brake pedal while you suddenly crack open the bleed screw is much more effective at getting all the bubbles out. Just one tiny bubble can have a huge impact on pedal feel.

When I'm bleeding brakes, installing aftermarket brake lines, or installing a big brake kit, I like to work on one corner at a time and complete that corner before moving on to the next one. If I have trouble getting a firm pedal, I know it's because of the corner I'm working on right now. If you do the entire vehicle at once, you won't know if the pedal is going to be firm until you're finishing up the bleeding on the last corner. And, if it is still soft after that corner, you don't know which of the other three corners is the culprit. That takes longer than necessary. In your case, however, you have no choice, since you're refinishing the calipers.

To your specific question, if you allow all the fluid to drain from all four calipers, you will also be getting air into the master cylinder. That makes your job of bleeding the brakes significantly harder. I would make sure you figure out some way to seal off each corner before you remove the calipers. Otherwise it's a pain in the butt to get a firm pedal back again.

 

[Sharpimage]

I'm a big fan of the traditional 2-person bleed technique, augmented by a few tricks from racing, such as tapping the calipers with a rubber mallet to break free any bubbles that are clinging to the inside. See: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm for some instructions I've written up. Pressure bleeders, vacuum bleeders, and 1-way bleed screws simply don't allow you to jolt the fluid hard enough to flush out all the trapped air bubbles. Having someone stand hard on the brake pedal while you suddenly crack open the bleed screw is much more effective at getting all the bubbles out. Just one tiny bubble can have a huge impact on pedal feel.

When I'm bleeding brakes, installing aftermarket brake lines, or installing a big brake kit, I like to work on one corner at a time and complete that corner before moving on to the next one. If I have trouble getting a firm pedal, I know it's because of the corner I'm working on right now. If you do the entire vehicle at once, you won't know if the pedal is going to be firm until you're finishing up the bleeding on the last corner. And, if it is still soft after that corner, you don't know which of the other three corners is the culprit. That takes longer than necessary. In your case, however, you have no choice, since you're refinishing the calipers.

To your specific question, if you allow all the fluid to drain from all four calipers, you will also be getting air into the master cylinder. That makes your job of bleeding the brakes significantly harder. I would make sure you figure out some way to seal off each corner before you remove the calipers. Otherwise it's a pain in the butt to get a firm pedal back again.

mmmmmm gotcha David thanks a bunch for the input! :rock::rock::rock:

Sharpi

 

[Chuck B]

DO NOT TURN THESE ROTORS...THEY WILL WARP......buy new ones...

Any rotor can (and should be) turned and as long as its within min thickness spec and most importantly proper breakin/bedding is performed. Your rotors will not suddenly warp. btw...I've turned my front rotors twice now with no issue. Bedding in is key when getting rotor surface and pad surfaces to seat together.

As for bleeding....like previously mentioned, don't let the fluid completely drain. It is MUCH harder to refill an open system then to simply flush through new fluid. As for flushing I've used many different methods but have always reverted back to the 2 person method. BTW...some brake systems, when using the brake pedal for pressure, does not like to have the pedal bottom out. I haven't run into that with newer vehicles and not sure on our SRT's but thought I should mention. Its easy enough for the person operating the pedal to not do this (or at least only once!).

 

[moparracing]

I'm a big fan of the traditional 2-person bleed technique, augmented by a few tricks from racing, such as tapping the calipers with a rubber mallet to break free any bubbles that are clinging to the inside. See: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm for some instructions I've written up. Pressure bleeders, vacuum bleeders, and 1-way bleed screws simply don't allow you to jolt the fluid hard enough to flush out all the trapped air bubbles. Having someone stand hard on the brake pedal while you suddenly crack open the bleed screw is much more effective at getting all the bubbles out. Just one tiny bubble can have a huge impact on pedal feel.

When I'm bleeding brakes, installing aftermarket brake lines, or installing a big brake kit, I like to work on one corner at a time and complete that corner before moving on to the next one. If I have trouble getting a firm pedal, I know it's because of the corner I'm working on right now. If you do the entire vehicle at once, you won't know if the pedal is going to be firm until you're finishing up the bleeding on the last corner. And, if it is still soft after that corner, you don't know which of the other three corners is the culprit. That takes longer than necessary. In your case, however, you have no choice, since you're refinishing the calipers.

To your specific question, if you allow all the fluid to drain from all four calipers, you will also be getting air into the master cylinder. That makes your job of bleeding the brakes significantly harder. I would make sure you figure out some way to seal off each corner before you remove the calipers. Otherwise it's a pain in the butt to get a firm pedal back again.

listen to dave, he knows brakes !!!!
solved my brake dusting/squeaking !!!!
dave is da "brake" man !!!!

 

[flchub]

Any rotor can (and should be) turned and as long as its within min thickness spec and most importantly proper breakin/bedding is performed. Your rotors will not suddenly warp. btw...I've turned my front rotors twice now with no issue. Bedding in is key when getting rotor surface and pad surfaces to seat together.

As for bleeding....like previously mentioned, don't let the fluid completely drain. It is MUCH harder to refill an open system then to simply flush through new fluid. As for flushing I've used many different methods but have always reverted back to the 2 person method. BTW...some brake systems, when using the brake pedal for pressure, does not like to have the pedal bottom out. I haven't run into that with newer vehicles and not sure on our SRT's but thought I should mention. Its easy enough for the person operating the pedal to not do this (or at least only once!).

so u have turned ur rotors twice on your ram srt-10? i'd like to know how many miles are on your srt-10?,since ur claiming they wont warp which is a load of crap,i have already posted about my rotors warping after they were turned

 

[DZeckhausen]

so u have turned ur rotors twice on your ram srt-10? i'd like to know how many miles are on your srt-10?,since ur claiming they wont warp which is a load of crap,i have already posted about my rotors warping after they were turned

I'm not crazy about turning rotors as standard practice when installing new brake pads. If there are no symptoms of judder, just leave it alone. If there are symptoms, try curing them first with bedding. Only as a last resort, if bedding doesn't fix the problem, should you turn the rotors.

The frequent problem with turning rotors is that the act of throwing the rotor onto a brake lathe, without making sure it's absolutely trued to the mounting surface, can induce far more runout than was there before. And almost nobody takes the appropriate amount of care when setting up the machine to make sure everything is mounted properly. You may end up with rotors so out-of-true that you get judder as soon as they are mounted.

Bedding is free. Try that first.

 

[flchub]

I'm not crazy about turning rotors as standard practice when installing new brake pads. If there are no symptoms of judder, just leave it alone. If there are symptoms, try curing them first with bedding. Only as a last resort, if bedding doesn't fix the problem, should you turn the rotors.

The frequent problem with turning rotors is that the act of throwing the rotor onto a brake lathe, without making sure it's absolutely trued to the mounting surface, can induce far more runout than was there before. And almost nobody takes the appropriate amount of care when setting up the machine to make sure everything is mounted properly. You may end up with rotors so out-of-true that you get judder as soon as they are mounted.

Bedding is free. Try that first.

i agree there are times to turn rotors,but these front rotors wear fast i replaced mine at 27000 miles and they dont wear even the front of the rotors were worn nearly twice as much as the back of the rotor , i ended up buying a new set of rotors after mine warped,my srt-10 now has 61000 miles on it,i replaced the pads since the 27000 but not the rotors ,trying to get the most out of these since turning them didnt work.

 

[Chuck B]

42,000 miles....and I'll emphasize again seating/bedding after rotors turned and/or new brake pads is key. The first time I turned my rotors....about 28K miles I went with new pads to help with brake dust. The rotors were far more worn then I expected so they needed cleaning up. Second time, approx 30K miles, was due to the fact I didn't like the pads I went with (various reasons) and did not want to contaminate new pads with old pad material that gets embedded into the rotors. Turning them the second time brought me down near min thickness even though we barely took anything off of them. FYI....I'm about due for my fourth set of tires. Meaning the truck is not babied. I purchased it for its performance including braking performance.

As a general rule your front brakes will wear 2x as fast as the rear. There are exceptions like my Infinity. It wears opposite of fronts....2 sets of rear pads to one set of fronts. :dontknow: Braking is just fine regardless of this strange wear pattern.

 

[Muzzy]

I have also had my front rotors turned when I switched to the EBC pads. I made sure they surfaced (cross-hatch pattern to assist break-in) them too. I have 2500 miles on mine since they were turned and surfaced. I followed EBC's bed-in instructions and do NOT have any warp rotor problems.

Like anything, you have to make sure the guy turning the rotors is not any idiot. When I worked as a mechanic almost 17 years ago I was certified in brakes and engine overhaul. I have turned many many rotors and never seen any problems unless the engineers put too small of a rotor for the weight of the vehicle. I always measure the run-out on a rotor with a dial indicator before having them turned. If run-out is within spec then I just have them surfaced. Maybe on a race type vehicle you would not want to take the chance and just run new. On a street car, I see no problem.

-Muzzy

 

[Sharpimage]

Alright, i've managed to stop the brake fluid from coming out of the line but
at the same time the two bolts holding in the caliper WILL NOT BUDGE..
i've used everything to "Screw loose" a variant of WD-40 that's supposed to
be better for screws.. a hammer.. a impact wrench.. and a air wrench.. the
bolt will not move! do i need to take the caliper apart as it looks like a two
piece ordeal.. or is there any other way to remove the caliper? let me know
as i am in the middle of doing this...

Thanks,

Sharpi

 

[Sharpimage]

Thanks for the help guys i figured it out..... i'm gonna post some
big thread on brakes soon.. keep an eye out :rock:

Sharpi

 

[Annu Kumar]

Hey, i got two days off to do my brake system... tommorow i'm getting the
rotors turned and i'm gonna change the pads here shortly... i ordered some
caliper paint and want to take all four calipers off to paint them... well
i went to take them off and i thought i could pinch the brake line where it's
rubber to stop the fluid from draining out the plug where it connects into
the caliper.. that rubber is very hard and i don't want to pinch something
that might not comeback into it's orginal form..:dontknow: so how do you suggest i take
the calipers off my truck completely and not have brake fluid draining out of
the system? :dontknow:

Sharpi

Guys If you can pay 50K for a Vehicle Just pay someone to do the shit for you. Unless you guys have fun doing it go for it. No offense to anyone just my opinion.:rock:

 

[Sharpimage]

Guys If you can pay 50K for a Vehicle Just pay someone to do the shit for you. Unless you guys have fun doing it go for it. No offense to anyone just my opinion.:rock:

trust me man.. it's not the cash i'm worried about... i just enjoy workin with
my hands.. knowing i can do something is a great mental build.. makes me
more confidant.. and you learn stuff.. just can't beat that man :rock:
plus i'm not a total clutz when it comes to this stuff.. just get stuck sometimes..



Sharpi