Caltrac install questions

just a small tip ,i have done many frozen up parts ,,,get it hot first then slob the silver anti seize on it not the copper color one .it will leach into it better then do it one more time ,,,heat it up slob it up ,,one or two good wacks will push it out ,,i take parts out of plastic injection molding machines that get up to 850 plus degrees for months on end ,,,the silver or nickle anti seize always works better ,,,:rock:
 
He is trying to beat those bushings out as we peck on our keyboards:D
 
But he's still the one in Hawaii and we're all,,, not.:dontknow: Bastid.:aetsch:
 
INSTALLED

First of all, bushings come out easy with drilling the sh#t out the rubber, then lubing the metal part and using a hammer and block of wood to smash it out. New metal bushings went in easy.........put em in the freezer last night, used white lithium grease (no anti seeze around), block of wood, 20 lbs dumbell......and they pushed in real easy.

Caltracs instructions say to torque u bolts to 60 or 70 lbs.........I thought factory specs were 110 lbs? Let me know please.

Got it all put back together and then came the adjustment part. Tried a half turn past contact..........major wheel spin and truck slides to right.........came back tried 1.5 turns.....again major wheel spin and it really slides to the right.

Ok I know these are not gonna stop the wheel spin completly, but how can I stop the sliding to right? I did not do the business card trick as I forgot about it, so I will try it again. Also how tight do those nuts at either end of the torsion bar( long black one ) need to be? Its a fricken pain to loosen the back one by the rear wheel.

Here are some install pics................. thats my neighbor, he is a human press!!!!! LOL

patrick
 
Patrick
Glad to see you got them on. As far as the locking nuts go; buy an extra wrench (1 1/8 I think), and cut it down. It will make loosening/tightening the nuts alot easier. Also, try adjusting the right(I think) side tighter than the left. That should help the drifting. You'll have to fine tune them to find the best setting for your truck. The next time you're at the track make 1/4 turn adjustments until you get your best 60' time. Enjoy

Donnie
 
mauiSRT/10 said:
First of all, bushings come out easy with drilling the sh#t out the rubber, then lubing the metal part and using a hammer and block of wood to smash it out. New metal bushings went in easy.........put em in the freezer last night, used white lithium grease (no anti seeze around), block of wood, 20 lbs dumbell......and they pushed in real easy.

Caltracs instructions say to torque u bolts to 60 or 70 lbs.........I thought factory specs were 110 lbs? Let me know please.

Got it all put back together and then came the adjustment part. Tried a half turn past contact..........major wheel spin and truck slides to right.........came back tried 1.5 turns.....again major wheel spin and it really slides to the right.

Ok I know these are not gonna stop the wheel spin completly, but how can I stop the sliding to right? I did not do the business card trick as I forgot about it, so I will try it again. Also how tight do those nuts at either end of the torsion bar( long black one ) need to be? Its a fricken pain to loosen the back one by the rear wheel.

Here are some install pics................. thats my neighbor, he is a human press!!!!! LOL

patrick

You gotta luv the Hawaiian style back yard workbench!!:rock: Shakka Brudda!!

Patrick, did the truck pull to the right before the install?
 
make sure your sitting in the seat when you adjust cal tracs have a buddy do it. that should help with the sideways issue.
 
Yes I was sitting in the seat when we adjusted them. Yes the truck pulled to the right before the caltracs.

I really gotta do the business card trick to get my starting point. I think thats where its off. Its hard to visually see when the contact is made before setting the preload.

patrick
 

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