blackmamba
Full Access Member
Do you really need to remove the heads to do a cam swap in these trucks ?
Cam Swap
- Thread starter blackmamba
- Start date
breederofkoi
Full Access Member
Do you really need to remove the heads to do a cam swap in these trucks ?
How else you gonna keep the lifters up and out of your way??? :dontknow: I spose maybe if you remove rockers, pushrods and intake base, you might be able to snake a finger or 2 in there to push lifters out of the way during removal and install, but without running out to garage and ripping mine apart, I can't tell ya for certain..... If all else fails, follow the instructions.
blackmamba
Full Access Member
Yep , I know .... I guess that would be a good time to install better head gaskets and makes changing the valve springs easy too
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breederofkoi
Full Access Member
Nevermind, just answered that question by finding pictures of someone's engine rebuild on here... Your gonna be removing your heads boss, no other way to hold the lifters up (they're under the head). Engine doesn't have a removable intake base/galley like a SB 350...
ARRESTmeRed04
Active Member
I think is try a magnet down the lifter bore before going through all that, I belive you have to pull the oil pan to get the timing cover off though
breederofkoi
Full Access Member
I'd just pull heads to be done with it, could visually inspect cylinder walls while your in there, maybe install some headers if you don't already have them (and some ported/polished or new heads if you have the cash to go crazy) :rock:
breederofkoi
Full Access Member
Damn, thats a lot of magnets to have laying around...........
Correct me if I'm wrong (I can take critisizm), but wouldn't you have to have 20 magnets to hold them all up at the same time to be able to work the cam in and out without getting hung up all the time??? Food for thought
ARRESTmeRed04
Active Member
Damn, thats a lot of magnets to have laying around...........
I would assume you could pull the porters all the way out, but even 20 magnets at $1 per magnet it'd be cheaper than all the gaskets
ARRESTmeRed04
Active Member
Thats to hold the valves up when changing valve springs most likely
you might be right, I just remember him saying that's what he did.
no, you can do it without removing the heads
remove the valve covers, rocker arms, push rods
then drop the pan down enough to get oil pick up loose
then remove the front cover, timing chain
rotate the cam push the lifters up in the bore, replace the cam, degree it and your done
at our slowest rate about 6 hours, thats with pizza
the valve springs, put compressed air into the cylinders, replace the valve springs,
never have to remove the heads
oh , and thats brandon, his first cherry pop on this one, did it with ease
remove the valve covers, rocker arms, push rods
then drop the pan down enough to get oil pick up loose
then remove the front cover, timing chain
rotate the cam push the lifters up in the bore, replace the cam, degree it and your done
at our slowest rate about 6 hours, thats with pizza
the valve springs, put compressed air into the cylinders, replace the valve springs,
never have to remove the heads
oh , and thats brandon, his first cherry pop on this one, did it with ease
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breederofkoi
Full Access Member
no, you can do it without removing the heads
remove the valve covers, rocker arms, push rods
then drop the pan down enough to get oil pick up loose
then remove the front cover, timing chain
rotate the cam push the lifters up in the bore, replace the cam, degree it and your done
at our slowest rate about 6 hours, thats with pizza
the valve springs, put compressed air into the cylinders, replace the valve springs,
never have to remove the heads
oh , and thats brandon, his first cherry pop on this one, did it with ease
and there is the man with all the answers :rock: Suprised that oil surface tension is enough to hold the lifters up while replacing the cam, but I'm not gonna argue (You've done them, I have not). I was just trying to make edjumacated guesses based on the engine build pics that I could find in other threads... Stupid me :banghead:
Damn, thats a lot of magnets to have laying around...........
thats what ya use to do a cam on a Mack engine. sort of looks like a porkupine when all the lifters are up:rock:
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
Alot of newer engines use this design where the lifter will stick into the upper portion of the lifter tray. It's not the oil friction that holds it. There should also be small 3/8 bores to find some wood dowel to ensure the lifters dont fall into the oil pan causing drama. Haven't done One personally on the Viper but due to soon
It really is worth degreeing the cam in versus dot to dot. Could be right on the money, likely off a degree or so one way or the other.
A degree wheel is instrumental IMO.
It really is worth degreeing the cam in versus dot to dot. Could be right on the money, likely off a degree or so one way or the other.
A degree wheel is instrumental IMO.
blackmamba
Full Access Member
I agree with yall on deg a cam. Thanks for all the help on this guys, you guys rock!!:rock:
Flip
Full Access Member
no, you can do it without removing the heads
remove the valve covers, rocker arms, push rods
then drop the pan down enough to get oil pick up loose
then remove the front cover, timing chain
rotate the cam push the lifters up in the bore, replace the cam, degree it and your done
at our slowest rate about 6 hours, thats with pizza
the valve springs, put compressed air into the cylinders, replace the valve springs,
never have to remove the heads
oh , and thats brandon, his first cherry pop on this one, did it with ease
Wow, great info Tony.
blackmamba
Full Access Member
Locate tdc then use the side of the lifter to get your cam readings.
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