catch can smell

perk_1405

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has anyone ever had a problem with in-cab smell from your oil catch can. beffore the truck blew, i would get a terrible smell when i turned the a/c on. as long as the windows were down i couldnt smell it. the catch can was mounted over where the extra battery tray was.

do you guys think the smell was b/c the ring lands were busted? causing lots of blow-by.

i was thinking of re=locating the can when the truck gets back.
 
It was the blow-by...I had the same smell...most of it came from the Roe breather on the drivers side bank, but there was some odor from the rear breather on the passenger side too.

I have no odor after the rebuild...bet you will find the same thing.
 
Yep to the smell..my wife would complain that my clothes smelled like gas when I would come home after driving the truck...even with the windows down....I took the little K&N filter off and routed a hose from the can to my filter box...no more stink..
 
I have been working with a company that builds catch cans in getting one done for the truck. It will allow pcv to be routed back to the intake and allow the system to function properly without the oil in the intake issue. THis will eliminate the smell from the system that we run now with the pcv system basically deleted and just ran to the can. I should have the system in place within the next few weeks. I'll post results asap.
 
Prof said:
It was the blow-by...I had the same smell...most of it came from the Roe breather on the drivers side bank, but there was some odor from the rear breather on the passenger side too.

I have no odor after the rebuild...bet you will find the same thing.


i was hopeing to hear this.
 
John02SS said:
I have been working with a company that builds catch cans in getting one done for the truck. It will allow pcv to be routed back to the intake and allow the system to function properly without the oil in the intake issue. THis will eliminate the smell from the system that we run now with the pcv system basically deleted and just ran to the can. I should have the system in place within the next few weeks. I'll post results asap.


John, keep us posted.

I have often wondered if it would be easy to route the outflow from the catch can via the freeze plug on the top front of the block...

Roy
 
roy one other thing to contemplate.


take a breather tube from each valve cover, route it down and into the exhaust behind the sensors, this puts a negative draw on the engine, lets the gasses get drawn out the back;) plus helps seal the springs and motor.

now you may have to put a breather on the covers , otherwise too much may get drawn out the exhaust, but its an old dirt track trick to create more hp:burnout:
 
Quickest link I found.................. 17 hour day rebuilding rotory air motors........ Damn Norweigns don't know how preserve ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!


Summit ftw
 
Me too bro. It's all good!

Hope all is well.

Maybe.................if they ever let me off this flipping oil rig I can fix the beast and see what chad has in store for the next tranny.

Could you have him email me or give me his email? [email protected]

thanks
 
bigike said:
Me too bro. It's all good!

Hope all is well.

Maybe.................if they ever let me off this flipping oil rig I can fix the beast and see what chad has in store for the next tranny.

Could you have him email me or give me his email? [email protected]

thanks
will do;)
 
Stinker said:
roy one other thing to contemplate.


take a breather tube from each valve cover, route it down and into the exhaust behind the sensors, this puts a negative draw on the engine, lets the gasses get drawn out the back;) plus helps seal the springs and motor.

now you may have to put a breather on the covers , otherwise too much may get drawn out the exhaust, but its an old dirt track trick to create more hp:burnout:

Good idea I have a similar setup on my car. It only works well if you have the proper pipes that weld into the exhaust pipes. The pipes need to have a 45 degree cut on one end and welded into the exhaust on a angle. Then when it is finished the opening on the pipe you welded in will be perpindicular to the exhaust pipe. This will pull the best vacuum possible.
 
Stinker said:
roy one other thing to contemplate.


take a breather tube from each valve cover, route it down and into the exhaust behind the sensors, this puts a negative draw on the engine, lets the gasses get drawn out the back;) plus helps seal the springs and motor.

now you may have to put a breather on the covers , otherwise too much may get drawn out the exhaust, but its an old dirt track trick to create more hp:burnout:

Got that too...
 
I bought the crankcase breathers from Summit before the rebuild but never installed them. (If anyone wants them...)

Running lines to the exhaust is a great idea. But I am still wondering about routing the line back to the block...

Just another point on this interesting issue...

During the short time I had straight pipes (just an X pipe) I pushed a lot of oil froth into my catch can...once I put some restriction back into the exhaust system (put the Magnflow back on) the catch can does not get any oil...

Spoke to my speed shop (Westech in Silver Lake WI) and Norm Brandies said that slight changes in exhaust restriction can have large internal engine pressure impacts...and that since engines are designed with specific resistance characteristics...it is not uncommon to have blow-by changes when exhaust systems are modified in either direction...and that sometimes the affects are counter intuitive...i.e. my experience of more blow-by when I reduced the exhaust restriction.

For whatever that is worth...
 
Running a line back to the block would do nothing to draw a vacuum on the crankcase...

You'd probalby blow oil out of every seal.
 
My crankcase is already vented. My point is to route the oil that gathers in the catch can back into the block rather than just into a catch can that needs to be drained...any ideas other than the freeze plug?
 

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