no might want to pull head if your worried you might not get all chips out ,,,but like Zcx says put lots of heavy grease on flutes of tap ,,chips will stick to the tad ,,,just make sure you start tap straight ,,,if you want to vacuum ,you should drop exhaust manifold on that side then stick vacuum end in cylinder exhaust hole to suck up chips
CEL issue
- Thread starter Snakes709
- Start date
no might want to pull head if your worried you might not get all chips out ,,,but like Zcx says put lots of heavy grease on flutes of tap ,,chips will stick to the tad ,,,just make sure you start tap straight ,,,if you want to vacuum ,you should drop exhaust manifold on that side then stick vacuum end in cylinder exhaust hole to suck up chips
Snakes709
Full Access Member
well that seems alot more then i can handle, defently not something i can do. I'm mechanic inclinded to a point. But doing all that, not my thing. How much do you think it would cost to get a shop to do it? I know its hard to say without being here, but do you guys think all that is required? The plug screws in, just really resistant. Perhaps some sort of grease/anti seize will help it go in all the way? Do you think this is what is causing my misfires?
i have gotten another plug before ,,slapped some anti seize on it then ran it down a time or two then went back with a new plug and i was good to go ,,,but you could also make it worse if your not real carfull
Snakes709
Full Access Member
Well tomorrow ill run up to the base and grab a can of anti-seize and try it out. Since my truck is my DD, i dont really want to rip the head apart. If it was the summer and i had my ZX6R, yea no problem.
My question still goes unanswer though. Could this have been causing my mis-fire?
My question still goes unanswer though. Could this have been causing my mis-fire?
Snakes709
Full Access Member
It was burnt yes, however it wasnt burn anymore then the rest, it was just burnt in a different spot. Look at the rims of #1 and #4, the are black, but the...not sure what they r called, prongs? arent. Now look at #9, the rim isnt but the prongs are. Also #4 was misfiring and that one looks fine.
If your treads arent repairable,you can always put a helix coil in it also and it will be fine too.
Snakes709
Full Access Member
lol, whats a helix coil?
Ares
Full Access Member
http://www.noblefix.com/
Helix coils are basically thread relacments. Only problem is you still have to drillout the hole to the right size to incert the helix coil.
Need a tool to insert the helixcoil too if im not mistaken.
Helix coils are basically thread relacments. Only problem is you still have to drillout the hole to the right size to incert the helix coil.
Need a tool to insert the helixcoil too if im not mistaken.
head would have to come for to use a helix coil ,,,its not good to use a helix coil on aluminum anyway,,,the helix coils are stainless they dont do too good on high heat parts ,,most likely when you install plug the next time you take plug out it will pull coil out with it !
The plugs should come pregapped. They don't recommend gapping Iridium plugs as you might break off the tiny iridium tip and ruin the plug. A thread chaser would be better than a tap as we don't want to make new threads as much as we want to repair the threads.
A lot of good info given, a commpression test will tell you a lot. A code reader will help you identify problems and clear code without clearing all your adaptive memory.
As stated above some grease on the thread chaser will collect a lot of the metal. Put the piston at top so the chips arn't as far down and the valves are closed. There are several types of small vacuum tools. Then blow air in after you vacuum to dislodge any chips the vacuum didn't catch, vacuum again and then crank over with plug out to blow any thing else out. When cranking with plug out be sure to disable spark by pulling fuse puting a spark plug in the end of the plug wire and grounding so the spark has somewhere to go.
I was just suggesting as analternative if plug is stripped instead of replacing a head, that's what I was thinking.
Snakes709
Full Access Member
Well i went out and picked up some anti-seize, will give that a try whenever i can. To damn cold out right now. Due to no snow plows in my parking lot i got stuck, got pissed off and basically red lined the truck, went through 2 gears and the truck got out of the snow. Girlfriend was actually looking at the wideband, it was reading 11.3, so thats good. Truck seems to be running fine, but i know that #9 isnt down all the way so ill try the anti-seize and see where that gets me. I'll try and get the truck to the dealership to get a compression check sometime next week (busy with my air brakes course this week)
11.3 sounds too rich. Just my 2 cents
Snakes709
Full Access Member
Well it doesnt matter what it is right now, SCT tuner will change that next week. Gonna try and get the truck in for a compression check on friday. I'm signed up for a winter auto-x event on the 16th so if my numbers are off ill get a refund. What should the numbers be?
A/F should be 14.7 at idle and steady rpm driving and 12.5 @ WOT:rock:
Snakes709
Full Access Member
well im pretty sure i wasnt getting a accurate reading slamming on the gas with my tires spinning in the snow. 12.5 is what it was before on dry pavement.
A time sert would be the better choice rather than a helicoil. Here is their link.
http://www.timesert.com/
http://www.timesert.com/
Snakes709
Full Access Member
thanks for the info
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