OK, never done it before but I would like to check mine out after this past weekends adventures. Can someone provide some instruction?
changing/checking brake pads
- Thread starter Dave T(BADVENM)
- Start date
Chuck B
Full Access Member
Both pads have squealers so you'll hear it before its too far gone. When I turned my rotors I found that the calipers placed more pressure (greater wear) to the outside portion of the rotor/pad....interesting I thought. All pads wore relatively evenly though.
Easiest way to check it to get a handy Mechanics mirror and place it over the outer portion of the caliper. You'll have a perfect view of both pads and how far worn. With 30K miles all my pads were a good 70% worn with probably 10% left before the squealers touched. Downside is you'll see how filthy your calipers are and will spend the next hour pulling each wheel and doing some serious cleaning!
As for changing...highly recommended you have the rotors resurfaced any time you install new pads. Go through a proper break-in and then have a ball! If you just want to replace the pads only its simple enough.
--Pull wheels
--On the topside of the caliper locate the large allen bolt in the center of the pad opening. Allen head faces inward.
--Clean the inside of the allen head so that the 12mm allen seats fully, break bolt loose.
--Unclip the anti-vibration tabs from the pads. Placing them to the inside/center of the brake pads. This helps relieve tension on the spacer over the 12mm allen bolt. Very helpful when re-installing the allen through the spacer.
--remove allen bolt
--pull the pads
--You'll need to move each of the pistons back in order to install new pads. Good idea to clean throughly around the pistons beforehand. I use a specific tool to do this but a standard c-clamp works perfectly.
--You'll want to keep an eye on your brake fluid level
--Since you're not going to turn the rotors at the very least you need to scuff them up. I like maroon scotch brite pad and brake cleaner
--Install new pads and reverse installation
If you are going to remove the rotor to have it surfaced.....You'll need to remove the caliper. Have a piece of coat hanger wire or equivilant ready to support/hang the caliper after removing the two 18mm mounting bolts. The caliper is very heavy and one slip will surely tear the brake hose. The two 18mm mounting bolts, located on the inside of each caliper, the Factory did apply red loctite so you'll need to throughly clean the bolts and re-apply thread locker. As for tq setting for these bolts the service manual is a bit confusing. I found three different settings...24ftlbs (break down of caliper), 130ftlbs (LD version) and 245ftlbs for SRT specific. I spoke with dealer and they stated its 130lbs. The confusing part is the description between caliper removal bolts and caliper adaptor bolts. With the caliper off to the side and secured you can now attempt to pull the rotor straight off. Mostly likely it will need some encouraging with a large rubber mallet. The rotor may be rusted to the hub assembly. If its really stuck on use a block of wood and large sledge hammer. Worse case you'll need to remove the hub (3 18mm bolts all torqued at 130ftlbs) then press them off or use larger sledge with block of wood. Hope this helps!
Easiest way to check it to get a handy Mechanics mirror and place it over the outer portion of the caliper. You'll have a perfect view of both pads and how far worn. With 30K miles all my pads were a good 70% worn with probably 10% left before the squealers touched. Downside is you'll see how filthy your calipers are and will spend the next hour pulling each wheel and doing some serious cleaning!
As for changing...highly recommended you have the rotors resurfaced any time you install new pads. Go through a proper break-in and then have a ball! If you just want to replace the pads only its simple enough.
--Pull wheels
--On the topside of the caliper locate the large allen bolt in the center of the pad opening. Allen head faces inward.
--Clean the inside of the allen head so that the 12mm allen seats fully, break bolt loose.
--Unclip the anti-vibration tabs from the pads. Placing them to the inside/center of the brake pads. This helps relieve tension on the spacer over the 12mm allen bolt. Very helpful when re-installing the allen through the spacer.
--remove allen bolt
--pull the pads
--You'll need to move each of the pistons back in order to install new pads. Good idea to clean throughly around the pistons beforehand. I use a specific tool to do this but a standard c-clamp works perfectly.
--You'll want to keep an eye on your brake fluid level
--Since you're not going to turn the rotors at the very least you need to scuff them up. I like maroon scotch brite pad and brake cleaner
--Install new pads and reverse installation
If you are going to remove the rotor to have it surfaced.....You'll need to remove the caliper. Have a piece of coat hanger wire or equivilant ready to support/hang the caliper after removing the two 18mm mounting bolts. The caliper is very heavy and one slip will surely tear the brake hose. The two 18mm mounting bolts, located on the inside of each caliper, the Factory did apply red loctite so you'll need to throughly clean the bolts and re-apply thread locker. As for tq setting for these bolts the service manual is a bit confusing. I found three different settings...24ftlbs (break down of caliper), 130ftlbs (LD version) and 245ftlbs for SRT specific. I spoke with dealer and they stated its 130lbs. The confusing part is the description between caliper removal bolts and caliper adaptor bolts. With the caliper off to the side and secured you can now attempt to pull the rotor straight off. Mostly likely it will need some encouraging with a large rubber mallet. The rotor may be rusted to the hub assembly. If its really stuck on use a block of wood and large sledge hammer. Worse case you'll need to remove the hub (3 18mm bolts all torqued at 130ftlbs) then press them off or use larger sledge with block of wood. Hope this helps!
Last edited:
One thing I do when pushing the caliper pistons back is I open the bleed screw so you don't push the brake fluid back through the system. Two reasons for this. Most of the contaminated fluid is in the caliper, and second is some ABS systems do not like having the fluid pushed back through the system.
But then, I tend to be anal about some things.
But then, I tend to be anal about some things.
Texas Yellow Fever
Full Access Member
Silverback said:But then, I tend to be anal about some things.
No!!! Say it ain't so!!!
Texas Yellow Fever said:No!!! Say it ain't so!!!
Beer helps a little.
beer helps me alotSilverback said:Beer helps a little.
Misterhemi03
Full Access Member
Hopefully when I bring my truck in they will change the front rotors, and then I can throw my EBC greens on new rotors when I get home!
O, and I always push the pistons back with the fluid cap off.
O, and I always push the pistons back with the fluid cap off.
SRT-11
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2007
- Messages
- 484
- Reaction score
- 0
Are there instructions for the rears? Everything I see in the DIY only references the fronts, or only has instructions for the fronts...
mosrt10
Full Access Member
What pads you buying?
04s' are a little different....there are two bolts to remove the caliper.pads popped right out. i had never done a pad change before and it was easy.
not many of us changing the rears i guess...don't dust nearly as much:rock:
ViperTruck2933
Full Access Member
The rears on the 04s come off the same way as the fronts. Same design.
SRT-11
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2007
- Messages
- 484
- Reaction score
- 0
I have an 05 RC. The outer portion of the caliper is held on with two 1/2" bolts, they came off super easy, then the outer portion (the part with the pistons) was loose & accessible, the top part is easy to pry out of the top metal retaining clip, but the bottom part was just barely stuck behind the bottom metal retaining clip and I was scared to pry it out, it being part of my brakes, ya know? someone please help!!!!!
Annu Kumar
Full Access Member
Silverback said:One thing I do when pushing the caliper pistons back is I open the bleed screw so you don't push the brake fluid back through the system. Two reasons for this. Most of the contaminated fluid is in the caliper, and second is some ABS systems do not like having the fluid pushed back through the system.
But then, I tend to be anal about some things.
Beer?? I thought you would love a few Bananas Silverback
mosrt10
Full Access Member
Annu Kumar said:Beer?? I thought you would love a few Bananas Silverback
Banana Flavored Beer:idea: . Call Sam Adams.
SRT-11
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2007
- Messages
- 484
- Reaction score
- 0
pleeze? somebody?
SRT-11
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2007
- Messages
- 484
- Reaction score
- 0
pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze?
drcraig
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 22, 2006
- Messages
- 311
- Reaction score
- 0
I would like to help you; however, I was unable to get the rear pads off. It is kind of like a puzzle, they don't want to come out. Hopefully someone will shed some insight on the rear pads for you.
Black1
Full Access Member
I'm curious about this as well.... All for sides on mine are squealing like banshees.
Do you need a special tool to push the calipers back on the rears? ('05 QC) :dontknow: Some cars need a tool because the piston on the rears also works with the parking brake. :dontknow:
Do you need a special tool to push the calipers back on the rears? ('05 QC) :dontknow: Some cars need a tool because the piston on the rears also works with the parking brake. :dontknow:
Black1
Full Access Member
Silverback said:One thing I do when pushing the caliper pistons back is I open the bleed screw so you don't push the brake fluid back through the system. Two reasons for this. Most of the contaminated fluid is in the caliper, and second is some ABS systems do not like having the fluid pushed back through the system.
But then, I tend to be anal about some things.
But, if you open the bleed-screw, do you have to bleed the brakes when your done? :dontknow:
Support Us
Become A Supporting Member Today!
