clutch bleeding 101.

[biff]

Last fall (before I put the truck into storage), I went to the dealership to get an oil change, and have my clutch bled.

The dipsh!ts at the service department told me they wouldn't change out the fluid unless the clutch was being replaced, so... to hell with them, I will do this myself.

I have done my research, and found some info here on the boards suggesting the use of Wilwood 570 hi-temp brake fluid.
great. I will order from JTSVP this afternoon.
First question... how much? 3 bottles, 4?

2nd...
I am considering purchasing a bleed system (much like this), but stumbled across this video online.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0&feature=player_detailpage#t=192s

Will this process work for our trucks?

I have never changed the clutch fluid on a vehicle, and want to get this done correctly.

ALSO, while I am at it, I plan to change out the trans fluid to ATF Mobil 1. How much will I need?

Thanks a ton.

 

[FATJACK]

Not sure on the bleeding process. 4 qts. in the tranny.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

it shouldnt take but a couple pints to do the clutch fluid completly,

as far as the trans its four quarts, I like the mobil1 atf, but to me I like the redline d4 atf better and we stock it now, I carry it for $15 a quart on it

 

[biff]

you guys rock.:rock:
I will put in an order on your site this afternoon.
Thanks a ton.

If anyone gets a chance to watch that vid, let me know if you think that process will work.

I really need to figure out a way to bleed the clutch by myself.
either through a bleeder system, or as advised in the vid linked above.
your thoughts are highly appreciated.

 

[JaCeD_X]

I use the buddy system myself, but have heard about reverse bleeding procedures.

That video is pretty self explanatory (which is great)

I don't see why it wouldn't work. You'll need to remove the old fluid first and then start the reverse bleeding process with new fluid, keeping MC reservoir cap off until finished.
Someone on these forums bought the same system and said it's worked for him. I think it was LitemUp




The clutch slave bleeder screw 11mm

 

[biff]

redline d4 atf better and we stock it now, I carry it for $15 a quart on it

is this listed on your site? :dontknow:
I might be missing it.... but I don't see it.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

is this listed on your site? :dontknow:
I might be missing it.... but I don't see it.

dont have the d4 on the site yet buddy, you'll have to shout at me pm or call man, jsut got the stuff in

 

[yellowfever#154]

The best way to bleed the clutch is very simple. Put a drain pan under the bleed screw and open it up. Remove the cap on the reservoir and just leave it sit. After the reservoir appears to be empty fill it right up with your new fluid and then again just leave it sit. Continue to fill it as gravity does its thing and eventually when the new fluid starts coming out of the bleed screw close it. It worked great on my truck.

 

[Chuck B]

Buddy system or if by yourself get a Harbor Freight high pressure oil can. Costs all of $4. Remove the 3oz or so of fluid in the resv then attach a hose to the end of the oil can and clutch nipple below. Be sure and remove any air in the hose before connecting. Once connected loosen the nipple and pump fluid. 6-7 quirts then empty resv again...repeat. There is very little fluid in the clutch hydraulics...

While I only bleed my clutch maybe annually I do empty the resv and refill with fresh fluid every oil change. I'm still on original clutch components with over 100K miles.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Both of the above comments are correct as well as the video. I have never had a problem bleeding any t-56 through the bleeder valve as it was intended just as brakes are. Gravity bleeding is very popular for brakes systems as well. Folks, air in any hydraulic line simply reduces the effects of the component being pressurized by the fluid.

 

[biff]

dont have the d4 on the site yet buddy, you'll have to shout at me pm or call man, jsut got the stuff in

pm sent.

Buddy system or if by yourself get a Harbor Freight high pressure oil can. Costs all of $4. Remove the 3oz or so of fluid in the resv then attach a hose to the end of the oil can and clutch nipple below. Be sure and remove any air in the hose before connecting. Once connected loosen the nipple and pump fluid. 6-7 quirts then empty resv again...repeat. There is very little fluid in the clutch hydraulics...

While I only bleed my clutch maybe annually I do empty the resv and refill with fresh fluid every oil change. I'm still on original clutch components with over 100K miles.

sweet.

I will pick one up.

thanks a ton to everyone on here! I will report back when fluids are changed, and I finally get the truck out to play again.

:rock::rock:

 

[Venom Power]

This is all giving me flashbacks from almost a couple years ago when it took me like 3 days to bleed my clutch. Even though I had Stinker and Venomous1 (Scotty) on the phone frequently I still had a 7 year old as my buddy so go figure. Finally OSO swung by and it got :top:did.

 

[FL06SRT10]

This is all giving me flashbacks from almost a couple years ago when it took me like 3 days to bleed my clutch. Even though I had Stinker and Venomous1 (Scotty) on the phone frequently I still had a 7 year old as my buddy so go figure. Finally OSO swung by and it got :top:did.

What went wrong?