Clutch - Excessive Pedal Free Play

O

Oklahoma

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Would appreciate your help/opinions.

I have a 2005 RC and it only has about 10,000 fairly easy miles.

The last week or so the clutch pedal seems to have a lot more free play than it used to have. It feels like it is not even connected at all until you push it down about 3 or 4 inches, then it feels normal. It also starts to engage almost immediately as you release it from the floor.

I checked the fluid yesterday and it was pretty much full. Went ahead and added just a little bit which made it run over the top when I put the diaphram/gasket back in. The fluid also looked fresh.

I park it in the garage all the time and would have noticed any fluid leaks.

Any suggestions? Guess I could try to bleed it but air doesn't seem to be the issue.

Thanks for any help. Merry Christmas.
 
sounds like the slave they will hardly leak more like seap, and from all the dust and stuff it soaks it up like dry sweep, get under there and look with a light, or your master blew out a seal that wont leak just weak peddle

STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEED CLUTCH
To determine if the master cylinder assembly
requires bleeding or if the complete system requires
bleeding:
(1) Uncouple the clutch master cylinder line from
the clutch slave cylinder with quick Disconnect Tool
6638.
(2) Slowly depress the clutch pedal.
CAUTION: Do not apply too much force as this will
cause the uncoupled male coupling to blow out.
(3) If the pedal feels hard in a relatively short distance,
air is present in the clutch slave cylinder.
(4) If the pedal feels spongy air is present in the
master cylinder assembly.
LINKAGE BLEED
(1) Remove the reservoir cap taking care not to
damage the diaphragm (Fig. 1). If fluid level is not
up to the step in the reservoir add D.O.T. 4 brake
fluid.
CAUTION: Use only D.O.T. 4 compatible brake fluid.
Other than D.O.T 4 will cause system malfunction

Fig. 2).
(3) Holding down the clutch pedal and tighten
bleed screw to 15-20 N·m (11-14 ft. lbs.).
(4) Repeat Step 2 and Step 3 two times then check
fluid level in reservoir.
(5) Pump clutch pedal rapidly a minimum of 10
times. If clutch pedal still feels spongy, repeat Step 2
through Step 5.
MASTER CYLINDER BLEED
(1) Uncouple the master cylinder line from the
clutch slave cylinder, with quick Disconnect Tool
6638.
(2) Remove the reservoir cap taking care not to
damage the diaphragm. If the fluid level is not up to
the step in the reservoir, add D.O.T. 4 brake fluid.
CAUTION: Use only D.O.T. 4 compatible brake fluid.
Other than D.O.T 4 will cause system malfunction.
(3) Open the male quick connect coupling by
depressing the poppet in the coupling while depress
the clutch pedal to the floor.
(4) Close the quick connect coupling by releasing
the poppet while holding the clutch pedal to the floor.
(5) Release the pedal.
(6) Repeat Step 3 through Step 5 two more times
and check fluid level.
(7) Couple system back together. Then pump
clutch pedal rapidly a minimum of 10 times.
(8) If clutch pedal still feels spongy repeat Step 3
through Step 7.
Fig. 1 HYDRAULIC CLUTCH RESERVOIR
1 - HYDRAULIC CLUTCH RESERVOIR
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
3 - BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
4 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
5 - HYDRAULIC CLUTCH LINE
Fig. 2 RELEASE BEARING/HYDRAULIC SLAVE
CYLINDER
1 - HYDRAULIC CLUTCH RELEASE
2 - BLEED SCREW
3 - TRANSMISSION
DR CLUTCH - SRT-10 6 - 5
 
Thanks, DevilDawg, bleeding it worked.

The fliud that came out looked pretty good with the exception of it having little chunks of light colored grease in it (about five different chunks). Or it looked and felt like grease. Any idea what that was? Something during assembly?

Anyway, the pedal is operating normally again. Thanks for the help.
 
was it the same color as the fluid? and how cold did it get by You? only thing I can think of is your fluid gelled up, but if it was not cold? unless some one backed out the bleeder screw all the way and got grease on it before putting back. it wasnt parts of o-ring was it?
 
The gel is probably caused by overheating, our lines are very close to the exhaust manifold.
 
FATJACK said:
The gel is probably caused by overheating, our lines are very close to the exhaust manifold.
Click to expand...
Did not even think of that, your right, as always. :p
 
It was like an off white (like lithium grease). It was not an o-ring. I have owned the vehicle since new and it has never been to the dealer so whatever it is, it was from the factory.

Guess it could be heat related. However, I don't have cats on the vehicle. I have jmb's mid pipes so maybe not a lot of heat there.

I bled it using a vacumn pump and it took a good long time before I could get anything to come out the bleeder. Once it finally started coming out, it flowed fine. I believe I sucked enough fluid out so that I basically have all new fluid now.

Funny you ask about outside temperature. It has been in the teens around here lately (which is when the problem started) which is unusual for this area.

Thanks for the replies.
 
Oklahoma said:
It was like an off white (like lithium grease). It was not an o-ring. I have owned the vehicle since new and it has never been to the dealer so whatever it is, it was from the factory.

Guess it could be heat related. However, I don't have cats on the vehicle. I have jmb's mid pipes so maybe not a lot of heat there.

I bled it using a vacumn pump and it took a good long time before I could get anything to come out the bleeder. Once it finally started coming out, it flowed fine. I believe I sucked enough fluid out so that I basically have all new fluid now.

Funny you ask about outside temperature. It has been in the teens around here lately (which is when the problem started) which is unusual for this area.

Thanks for the replies.
Click to expand...
ok that makes sense with it being cold now you now what gelled brake fluid looks like. No matter what product you use it all has a minimum amount of water in them. Oil will actually soildify at 15 below zero, I hate this time of year because some of these construction companies never get it through there head, No matter what equipment your using when temps go below freezing shit starts to break, and break in places you would not think possible:marchmellow: :marchmellow: Need anything else jus hollar.:D
 
When I flushed mine the reservoir had some white grease looking chunks in it . I used a turkey baster to pull all of it out I could . Sounds like the same stuff you had , looked just like white grease . It was in the 50s when i did mine though .

Brandon
 
furgy667 said:
When I flushed mine the reservoir had some white grease looking chunks in it . I used a turkey baster to pull all of it out I could . Sounds like the same stuff you had , looked just like white grease . It was in the 50s when i did mine though .

Brandon
Click to expand...
Yours was probabally from hot to normal temp, like fatjack said the heat from the exaust draws out the moisture in the fluid then when it cools off it clumps or gels, to curb that problem just change the fluid at your oil change.

No problem patrick. Any info I have I will gladdly share. I do have the 04 tech service manual.:marchmellow: SO just hollar. Matt :aetsch: :thefinger:
 
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