Clutch/Hydraulic Issues in WI

V

VALKYRIE

New Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2011
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
I have a 2006 RAM SRT10 RC. I had the clutch replaced about 11,000 miles ago and this is the first winter I have had the car. The following issue has happened twice, and is moderately annoying.

Conditions: Temperature is less than 30 degrees and the truck has been sitting without running for at least 12 hours. In each case it is left in neutral, e-brake engaged, parked on level ground.

Symptoms: Starting the car is fine. Clutch feels normal for the first throw, however the gear shifter is incredibly hard to get into gear, and as soon as it gets into gear it will start rolling under power, even with the clutch pedal down. Subsequent throws of the clutch have the pedal pressure weakening more and more until it is flat. A check of the fluid level at this point yields very little of the stuff missing (maybe 1/8 cup of fluid). After topping it off and ramming the pedal up and down, the car is drivable again, but is still somewhat touchy about gear selection.

Any mechanic would probably tell me there is a line leak somewhere (and they may be correct, though I haven't seen any evidence in the driveway). but why if it were a leak would it be doing so in only cold weather. I am out of ideas and patience with what I am beginning to believe is the worlds worst truck in the area of reliability and quality. This symptom is annoying, very annoying. And it only seems to happen when its bitterly crappy cold outside.

Any ideas?
 
See that would be an option, but a less than advisable one. What I need is for this truck to simply work. It seems like the only sound component they put in this thing was the engine and perhaps the gearbox. Everything else was a half-thought, half-baked engineering plan to get this thing into production as quickly as possible.

I race stock cars. I need this vehicle to pull an equipment hauler. I bought it because it was a cool truck that looked like it would be up to the task. However after 15,000 and about $4,000 in repair expense, I would say this thing is nearing the level of complete failure. To the point where I am very much considering trading it in (sadly) for a new FORD.

Lets look at the list:
1. Clutch literally exploded apart after 900 miles from buying it. $1,400.
2. Brake caliper pistons failed at 5,000 from buying it requiring replacement, another $1,200.
3. Power steering leak required new pump and new reservoir and hoses. $X
4. Serpentine belt shredded at 10,000 from purchase and cost $275 to get replaced and left me stranded in hillbillyville for 2 days.
5. This list can be prolonged, rather extensively.

So right now, I just want this thing to behave like a working ******* truck for the next 7,500 miles so I can procure a different truck and if it does so I may throw some parts at it and turn it into a summer dragster. But in the meantime, what I'd like to do is throw a f-ing grenade through the windshield and let it roll into Lake Michigan.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Bleed the hydraulics!!! Before spending money on stuff not needed, bleed that clutch! There is a bleeder connected to the slave that's inside the tranny. You can use a 5/16 wrench to open and close the bleeder just like a brake caliper. The fluid is likely old and is contaminated therefore having moisture in it which in turn creates air bubbles, just as well as heat from the manifold would. Make sure the line is away from the exhaust manifold as well. New fluid and bleeding should get you back on the road.
Ensure there is no leaking from the bellhousing area of the tranny indicating the slave may be bad. To check the master, disconnect the quick release fitting to the slave, press on clutch pedal, it should not budge at all! Should be rock hard!

Good luck bro.:burnout:
 
How cold is it? Maybe could enough for the seals to shrink a bit? I agree with 505, upgrade the hydraulics with boosts parts from JMB it'll be better than ne2.
 
VALKYRIE said:
See that would be an option, but a less than advisable one. What I need is for this truck to simply work. It seems like the only sound component they put in this thing was the engine and perhaps the gearbox. Everything else was a half-thought, half-baked engineering plan to get this thing into production as quickly as possible.
So right now, I just want this thing to behave like a working ******* truck for the next 7,500 miles so I can procure a different truck and if it does so I may throw some parts at it and turn it into a summer dragster. But in the meantime, what I'd like to do is throw a f-ing grenade through the windshield and let it roll into Lake Michigan.
Click to expand...
seems like that's your best option... need a hand pushing it?

maybe you don't drive a stick very well?:dontknow:

or should have bought a diesel?;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Random Media

20140720 105542
DSC 0078
IMG 20180408 120521026
IMG 0038
Back
Top