clutch ideas?

[crzyviper]

so I installed jts wilwood slave and master kit do to a squeal when I release clutch, everyone said it was slave. So installed it and it still does it so its defiantly clutch. I’m looking for clutch kits but I’ve always used act clutches but there is only one for our truck I’ve heard good and very bad about clutch master and spec any input guys?:dontknow:

 

[mysrt10]

A lot of guys are starting to switch to spec. I've had one for 4 years now and never had a problem.

 

[crzyviper]

what style spec?

 

[yellowfever#154]

Did you measure bearing preload before you installed everything? There needs to be at least 0.6" of preload on the release system.

I have the same release system as you although I have a dual disc clutch, I measured my preload last night and I was at 0.675". I assume with a single disc clutch the preload will be much less.

My clutch is a RAM, but with specs for my application.

 

[ZCx]

Did you measure bearing preload before you installed everything? There needs to be at least 0.6" of preload on the release system.

I have the same release system as you although I have a dual disc clutch, I measured my preload last night and I was at 0.675". I assume with a single disc clutch the preload will be much less.

My clutch is a RAM, but with specs for my application.

question......

is the preload on a hyd. set up the same as free travel on a manual likage set up????

and whats the procedure for checkin & setin it up????

 

[SRT2SLOW]

Did you measure bearing preload before you installed everything? There needs to be at least 0.6" of preload on the release system.

I have the same release system as you although I have a dual disc clutch, I measured my preload last night and I was at 0.675". I assume with a single disc clutch the preload will be much less.

My clutch is a RAM, but with specs for my application.

How do you measure for preload. I'm getting my new setup from tony on Monday now (THANKS USPS)...how do you set the preload...thanks

 

[yellowfever#154]

question......

is the preload on a hyd. set up the same as free travel on a manual likage set up????

and whats the procedure for checkin & setin it up????

Kinda sort of the same but different. On a hydraulic setup you want the bearing to be pushed back a minimum of 0.6" when in its rest position.

There are 4 measurements that you have to make, then do some math and come up with the exact measurement that yours will be once assembled. There is a work sheet that came with my clutch, but I don't have it with me right now. I will scan it on Monday and post it.

The measurements require some special tools. A 18" or so straight edge, calipers, and a depth micrometer.

If you need to adjust it you must shim the slave cylinder.

 

[yellowfever#154]

I guess to simplify it some, you can measure the total thickness of the flywheel/clutch assembly. From the crank mounting flange surface of the flywheel to the release fingers, mine was exactly 3.00". What is it with a single disc clutch?

 

[mysrt10]

what style spec?

If you're using the n2o listed in your sig I would at least go with the the stage 2 or 2+ single disc. If you will be using it a lot on the track maybe a stage 3.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Centerforce tried and true!
The squeal is likely a glazed clutch/flywheel. Go out to your truck, put it in 4th and rev the engine to 3500 and take off. Disengage clutch before engine dies. Do this 2-3 times to roughen up the glazed area again. Clutch will grip better again and shouldn't squeal anymore.
Best try before replacing parts. Many race clutches have a ceramic material in the compound that grips well but susceptible to glazing easily. They tend to like a quick fast engagement instead of easing into acceleration. AKA no slippIng.

 

[FastRam]

what style spec?

If you're interested, I have a brand new in the box Spec, Stage 1, includes, clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing and alignment tool.

 

[yellowfever#154]

Sorry guys I cannot get the Clutch worksheet to attach? It is to big of a file (even though it is only 1 simple page) and I cannot attach a pdf to photobucket. I guess if you want it send me a pm with your email and I can send it that way.

 

[Slitherbeast]

I would just slide the release bearing onto the trans and bolt it up without a shim. Then, with a straight edge, measure the distance from the face of the bellhousing to the face of the release bearing. Then use a straight edge across the fingers of the clutch that the release bearing will contact , measure distance from straight edge to bell housing mounting face of engine block. Subtract this measurement from first measurement. Need to be .5" max. Play. Shim as required behind the release bearing .First measurement should be longer.by .5" Hope that makes sense!

 

[yellowfever#154]

Norbert, that basically sums it up but the spec is minimum of 0.6", not max of 0.5"

 

[Yetti808]

Centerforce tried and true!
The squeal is likely a glazed clutch/flywheel. Go out to your truck, put it in 4th and rev the engine to 3500 and take off. Disengage clutch before engine dies. Do this 2-3 times to roughen up the glazed area again. Clutch will grip better again and shouldn't squeal anymore.
Best try before replacing parts. Many race clutches have a ceramic material in the compound that grips well but susceptible to glazing easily. They tend to like a quick fast engagement instead of easing into acceleration. AKA no slippIng.

Yea mine does it when... For example rolling up the ramp on dyno after bumping the clutch a couple times the next Time it will squill. And it started this my first launch attempt I blead the Clutch a lot too much and it smelled so your for sure on to something ha.