Does anyone else ever experience the clutch pedal being light occasionally? My clutch never slips or chatters... it seems to work fine, but I occasionally notice that my clutch pedal is only about half there (very light). Also it seems to mainly happen under heavy deceleration, but the next time time I push it in within seconds to hit the next gear the pedal is completely normal. Fluid level is fine too. Once again I'm completely lost.
CLUTCH ISSUES???
- Thread starter stealth78
- Start date
500H V10
Full Access Member
Sounds like it could be a heat issue, meaning the fluid is starting to vaporize momentarily. I have simular issues during the summer 100+ temps sitting in traffic once in a while. The fix? Change the fluid with fresh High Temp Fluid. With age it does break down and it also absorbs moisture, this reduces the boiling point. The Clutch line is very close to the exhaust manifold.
So far I have just been living with mine but this summer I think I will flush the lines since mine is original (Old) 2004.
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
Great chance you need to flush and bleed your clutch. These style clutch hydraulics are suceptible to clutch dust entering the fluid via the seals in the slave cylinder. Your fluid will be almost black or very dark brown. Brake fluid also attracts moisuture, therefore decaying and heating up faster especially after a few hard romps thru the gears! Heat in turn can create an air bubble in the fluid that will present itself as a soft pedal at times or the pedal can actually stay on the floor during a high RPM shift
:burnout:
:burnout:
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
YUP!!! It should be done after every oil change to keep the fluid fresh! The bellhousing area under extreme conditions sees very high temps and the slave is right there soaking it all up. The practice of keeping the clutch fluid clean and bled is detrimental to a properly working T56 and clutch system.
This is true for Corvettes, TransAms, Camaros, Mustang Cobras, Aston Martin, and many others that use the T56 Tranny!
I had a similar issue occur several weeks ago. During our first warm spell, I spent 20 or so miles of my time in stop and go traffic. Outside temp was around mid to upper 80's. On my way home I drive a realtively straight and flat road. I decided to "stretch" the truck's legs... After my cruise and as I was decelerating heading towards a stop light, I pushed in the clutch and it went straight to the floor
At first I thought I blew another slave cylinder. I immediately moved the trans to neutral and pumped the pedal. It took about 3 or 4 pumps and the pressure came back. I pulled over and checked the fluid level and for leaks. All was good. Since then, no worries or problems. But then again I haven't stretched the truck's legs since... I think for the next oil change, I am going to change out the clutch fluid as well.
I had the same issue. Feels like, during high rpm, the clutch fingers expand due to centrifical forces and push the release bearing back to far. then when you go to hit the clutch you have to double clutch to rebuild pressure. i fixed mine by installing new hydraulics and a centerforce clutch. I was concerned that the pressure plate was gonna fly apart. so i just changed the whole assembly .
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You guys ROCK!!! I dont know what the hell I would do without you guys and this forum. What you guys are saying fits like a glove. I just pulled her out of storage so the old fluid going through a freezing winter and then heat again probably doesn't help if the fluid is susceptible to moisture AND I just put on B&B headers which I'm assuming is getting the line hotter because it runs closer. THANKS AGAIN
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
That's what we are here for bro! Glad we can help. I also recommend DOT 4 brake fluid to replace the old fluid with. It has a higher boiling point. With 2 people you can gravity bleed the system by keeping the reservoir full at ALL times by one person, while the other opens the bleeder collecting the fluid into a container, then closing the bleeder after new fluid reaches the slave.
how do you unhook the line at the bell housing? The plastic washer on mine is cracked. I am having the shift issues ( won't go in gear). There isn't any leakage that i can see.
I filled up the reservoir, that seemed to fix it. I did not test it and left it over night. the next day, same problem with shifting.
there is no leakage that I can see. do I need ot remove the tranny to get to the bleeder ? :dontknow:
edit: this happened to me after driving 500 miles, to a much hotter climate. I drove it easy. But left it in lower gear for some long hill climbs?
I filled up the reservoir, that seemed to fix it. I did not test it and left it over night. the next day, same problem with shifting.
there is no leakage that I can see. do I need ot remove the tranny to get to the bleeder ? :dontknow:
edit: this happened to me after driving 500 miles, to a much hotter climate. I drove it easy. But left it in lower gear for some long hill climbs?
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The line at the bellhousing isn't supposed to come apart! the bleeder is just a few inches higher . Not sure how moisture could get to the clutch fluid. it is all sealed . but if you are able to add fluid then there is a leak somewhere! it doesn't disappear. If your having trouble getting it into gear then the release bearing will need upgrading. It is unavoidable.The slave is weak. I think, Dan "Viperhauler" is the only one that has put on any real miles on his stock clutch and hydraulics but probably same amount of clutching . he does alot of highway, me thinks!! Might as well do a clutch at the same time . ...just my 2 cents
If your having trouble getting it into gear then the release bearing will need upgrading. It is unavoidable.The slave is weak. I think, Dan "Viperhauler" is the only one that has put on any real miles on his stock clutch and hydraulics but probably same amount of clutching . he does alot of highway, me thinks!! Might as well do a clutch at the same time . ...just my 2 centsthanks for the quick reply.
I think I can pump the clutch to get enough pressure to drive it to the shop.
I also think if I can bleed out the system I canget it running good enough to wait until i can afford all new everything. :dontknow:
I think I can pump the clutch to get enough pressure to drive it to the shop.
I also think if I can bleed out the system I canget it running good enough to wait until i can afford all new everything. :dontknow:
Great chance you need to flush and bleed your clutch. These style clutch hydraulics are suceptible to clutch dust entering the fluid via the seals in the slave cylinder. Your fluid will be almost black or very dark brown. Brake fluid also attracts moisuture, therefore decaying and heating up faster especially after a few hard romps thru the gears! Heat in turn can create an air bubble in the fluid that will present itself as a soft pedal at times or the pedal can actually stay on the floor during a high RPM shift
Well I flushed the clutch and filled it up with DOT 4... So far so good! Man did that fluid look like sh*t. I see what you mean about being suceptible to dust. Thanks again guys
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
Glad to help out bro!:burnout:
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