Clutch Pedal Clicking Noise

rdebow

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So I am driving to DC Performance from Orange County yesterday to get some parts installed, bassani headers, colder thermostat and stage 2 flash for my 2005 RC.

I get stuck in stop and go traffic on the freeway and the clutch pedal starts making a clicking noise initially once every couple of times then as I continue it happens everytime I put the clutch pedal in and sometimes when I let it all the way out. Truck accelerates fine and no problems shifting at all. Truck as about 5000 miles on it.

So I spoke with Dan about and he said he will take a look at it and see what is causing it. He's a really cool guy.

I asked him if he had seen this problem before on the RC trucks and he said no, but it could be the relay switch for the clutch or something rubbing.

I know alot of you guys had replaced your master cylinders for similar noises.

I plan on giving DC a call later today to see what they found out.

Any consensus on what may be the cause of this?

Thanks, Richard
 
Mine clicked some then went boom soon thereafter. Another had the clutch lingage break on him twice, its plastic. I think his was clicking as well. I think it was NBT.

Since you have DC, you will be alright. Dan will figure it out. Could be time for the Viper slave/master upgrade though.

patrick
 
Got the truck back from DC Performance, who are great and the verdict is that it's most likely the clutch master cylinder.

Dan ordered one and it should come in week or less and I will have them install.

I asked him about the upgrade to the viper master cylinder setup and he indicated he was not too impressed with how the pedal height/feel when they are installed on Ram as he indicated he has done a couple.

He also indicated that couple of the trucks he has done the Roe upgrade kit on with the new master, clutch and flywheel have had the clutch go out prematurely, but he was not 100% if this was related to any of the new parts or driving style but still an interesting fact.

So for now I am going to have the factory replacement one installed. What is funny is on the drive home it was perfectly quite in my almost 3 hr drive home in LA/OC traffic.:mad:

Truck runs 100% better with bassani headers, 172 thermo and stage 2 flash. The truck never got over 200 on oil temp or water temp the entire way home with the ac on and stuck in stop and go traffic.
 
rdebow said:
Got the truck back from DC Performance, who are great and the verdict is that it's most likely the clutch master cylinder.
.

I asked him about the upgrade to the viper master cylinder setup and he indicated he was not too impressed with how the pedal height/feel when they are installed on Ram as he indicated he has done a couple.

He also indicated that couple of the trucks he has done the Roe upgrade kit on with the new master, clutch and flywheel have had the clutch go out prematurely, but he was not 100% if this was related to any of the new parts or driving style but still an interesting fact.
.

I think the pedal is actually better with the viper upgrade. It feels lighter.

As far the centerforce prematurely wearing out. I spoke with Centerforce about this and they said their clutch should NOT be slipped at all. It is meant to be dropped. If you slip it, it will burn up.

patrick
 
mauiSRT/10 said:
I think the pedal is actually better with the viper upgrade. It feels lighter.

As far the centerforce prematurely wearing out. I spoke with Centerforce about this and they said their clutch should NOT be slipped at all. It is meant to be dropped. If you slip it, it will burn up.

patrick
If that's true, how is it any better than the OEM? If you only DROP the OEM clutch it'll hold up too.:dontknow:
 
ViperTruck2933 said:
If that's true, how is it any better than the OEM? If you only DROP the OEM clutch it'll hold up too.:dontknow:


The centerforce clutch uses the centrifical weights to increase the holding power. So it holds better than the stocker. Actually any clutch slipped will burn up. George Mcleod gave me a lesson over the phone when I was shopping for a clutch.

I like to use VPRPWR as my reference for how strong this clutch is. He has made 100+ passes with this clutch with SC and NOS. Fastest time was in the 11's. He says his clutch is still strong as ever.

patrick
 
mine was making a squeaking noise, I took it into the dealer...they tried lubing it up...did not work...
ended up getting a new clutch master. all is good now.:rock:
 
mauiSRT/10 said:
The centerforce clutch uses the centrifical weights to increase the holding power. So it holds better than the stocker. Actually any clutch slipped will burn up. George Mcleod gave me a lesson over the phone when I was shopping for a clutch.

I like to use VPRPWR as my reference for how strong this clutch is. He has made 100+ passes with this clutch with SC and NOS. Fastest time was in the 11's. He says his clutch is still strong as ever.

patrick
Cool. :burnout:
 
ViperTruck2933 said:
If that's true, how is it any better than the OEM? If you only DROP the OEM clutch it'll hold up too.:dontknow:

OK, I'd appreciate some insight on what might be considered a stupid question :dontknow:

I've had several manuals and never replaced a clutch....with that being said, you always slip the clutch just a tiny bit when leaving a stoplight - I'm not talking about racing....just simple driving....when you leave a light, you slip the clutch just a tad for a smooth take-off, as well as keeping you from ramming the car in front of you.....granted, it's at a low RPM, but it is slipped just a hair.....

Are you guys just referring to being under hard accelleration....ie, racing....or is this a concern in daily driving :confused: ....at 5k miles, I have no clutch issues to date, but then again I don't "slip" the clutch under hard accel and rarely get in the gas unless I'm already at a roll....I don't know sheit about racing, so maybe I'm just missing the point....a clutch should last forever under normal driving or it's a POS :mad:
 

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