Clutch pedal sticking

[TREKER]

I am noticing that the clutch pedal does not come back up and I need to pump it to get it into a gear. After driving for a few bit, it seems to work better but it is engaging closer to the floor than higher up as it used to. Is this a sign that the clutch is going? :dontknow:

I have 24k on the clock and dont really beat on it at all. I have noticed that the shifts are harder as well. I am prob due to change the trans fluid as well.

If its shot, I guess centerforce with stock flywheel.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

It is generally the master cylinder or slave cylinder going out on you. What you can do is flush and fill the master and slave with new fluid ( never let the resovoir get empty or you'll introduce air back into the lines and that's what's making your pedal stick to the floor now.
Now I come from the LS1 crowd, but the trannies are basically the same other than bigger input and output shafts I believe, but the principal is the same. And they do take a long time to bleed and the Mityvac tool proved no faster than the old pump and bleed method to me and I've done my share.
Two person job as the bleeder is on the side of the tranny. One pumps about 10-15 times and holds it just off the floor. When you crack open the bleeder the pedal will go to the floor, make sure the guy pumping doesn;t release the pedal until you tell him to do so after you close the bleeder back.
Good luck and hope it fixes your problem. Also check the line from the master to the slave and make sure it is in good shape at both ends and not leaking. Bet the fluid is BLACK!!

 

[moparracing]

you're likely due the following:

http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=92&idproduct=144

http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=92&idproduct=395

 

[TREKER]

It is generally the master cylinder or slave cylinder going out on you. What you can do is flush and fill the master and slave with new fluid ( never let the resovoir get empty or you'll introduce air back into the lines and that's what's making your pedal stick to the floor now.
Now I come from the LS1 crowd, but the trannies are basically the same other than bigger input and output shafts I believe, but the principal is the same. And they do take a long time to bleed and the Mityvac tool proved no faster than the old pump and bleed method to me and I've done my share.
Two person job as the bleeder is on the side of the tranny. One pumps about 10-15 times and holds it just off the floor. When you crack open the bleeder the pedal will go to the floor, make sure the guy pumping doesn;t release the pedal until you tell him to do so after you close the bleeder back.
Good luck and hope it fixes your problem. Also check the line from the master to the slave and make sure it is in good shape at both ends and not leaking. Bet the fluid is BLACK!!

Same as bleeding brakes?

 

[Sharpimage]

holy crap Scott be careful.. I just had a similar experience and ended up
running me about 1800 deep.. If you haven't upgraded the hydraulics
then you are probably due about now but from what it sounds like the slave
took a crap on you. The bleeding on this truck is just damn weird man
definitely make sure you don't get air in the system because that can
cause your master to fail. If you do bleed it make sure to close the valve
before the fluid stops shooting out because that will also introduce air in
the system. But like i said if you didn't touch it and it started happening
recently more than likely it's your slave. sorry to hear man..

Andrew

 

[JimTeTe]

Scott
Thats what happened to mine before the slave went ..... Then since you got it apart you might as well do what I did a do the Cutch, Press plate, flywheel, 1600 bucks in the end ..... go with the good stuff ...

Jim