Comp Coupe 708 cam

ViperTruck2933

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Anybody heard the 708 cam at idle? Can you hear that baby thump or not? I like the idea of being able to swap this cam in with the OEM valve springs, but I want to be able to hear that beast lope at idle.:burnout: I have heard it's good for 35-35 hp across the board on a stock motor.

A custom cam would be much more expensive, require new springs, pushrods and a new tune. But I know I could get a hard lope that way though. :confused:
 
So can you hear the lope or not??

Can't seem to find an answer on this???Anybody actually heard one running?
:confused:
 
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If you change cams, you should also change the valve springs. Used springs take a set after they have been run for a while and if you increase the lift they tend to fail. Not worth the risk in my opinion. You can swap out the springs without removing the heads so the cost is minimal.
 
ViperTruck2933 said:
So can you hear the lope or not??

Can't seem to find an answer on this???Anybody actually heard one running?
:confused:
bro if your truck is tuned right, and the exhaust is unrestricted, ie no cats, she will lope. ask the guys at the mopar nats last year what my truck sounded like. the 708 will add a BIT of lope, not much as it doesnt have a tremendous amount of overlap, and the seperation angle is HUGE on the Viper cams since they dont rev high.
 
BOOMER said:
bro if your truck is tuned right, and the exhaust is unrestricted, ie no cats, she will lope. ask the guys at the mopar nats last year what my truck sounded like. the 708 will add a BIT of lope, not much as it doesnt have a tremendous amount of overlap, and the seperation angle is HUGE on the Viper cams since they dont rev high.
Awesome!!

I keep going back and forth on this cam. I have a local tuner (Joe Donovan) who gave me a price on a custom cam install that he guarantee will have some serious lope and a solid 30-35 hp gain across the power band. But that route will cost me considerably more than throwing in the 708.

Just don't know what to do.......LOL.
 
Silverback said:
If you change cams, you should also change the valve springs. Used springs take a set after they have been run for a while and if you increase the lift they tend to fail. Not worth the risk in my opinion. You can swap out the springs without removing the heads so the cost is minimal.

Even more important is to install a new set of lifters with the new cam. On these engines you have to pull the heads to swap the lifters out....Soooo, replacing the springs just became a little easier :D
 
A couple of the big name Viper tuners have stated on a couple of boards that the 708 can go in without replacing the valve springs and lifters. So the heads do NOT have to come off.

It will also supposedly run on the Stage II pcm flash, even though I would definitely dyno run and double check it. :dontknow:
 
Its a really good cam with a slight lope to it, some notice it , some dont, you can try kevin in charlotte, I know they use a ton of them.

You can replace the cam without removing the heads.
remove the complete front of the truck, condensor , radiator, supports, so-on.
Remove front of engine. to get to the cam.
remove valve covers, remove rocker arms, remove pushrods.

rotate cam in block, lifters will stay lifted in place.

the springs on these engines are week, the lifters , technically should be replaced. Do you have to? no, you'll never have a problem bro.
 
Anyone have more info on what "lope" means? Also is this the main camshaft that drives the pistons or something else, because it would'nt make sense to remove it without removing the heads and manifolds if you are working on the engine while still in the engine compartment.
 
With roller lifter their should be no need to replace them.

I am thinking of taking on this task myself, still haven't decided though.
 
I looked at it bro and I think the only pain is going to be taking all the crap off, hell the easy part will be the cam!:D

As far as lope..hmmm... wish I new how to upload video and I would video mine with sound. I guess the best way to describe lope is the idle is choppy, ir inconsistent. Tell ya what to get some kind of idea go out and take off two plug wires and fire it up, it'll give ya little idea:D
 
Oh and your kinda right if your going to do the cam , you could remove the heads,BUT if you are just replacing the came you can save about $300 or more dollars in gaskets without doing the head removal, not to mention , the headbolts, and readjusting the valves, the manifolds, the pain in the ass intake, wires, and so-on.
 
Stinker said:
I looked at it bro and I think the only pain is going to be taking all the crap off, hell the easy part will be the cam!:D

As far as lope..hmmm... wish I new how to upload video and I would video mine with sound. I guess the best way to describe lope is the idle is choppy, ir inconsistent. Tell ya what to get some kind of idea go out and take off two plug wires and fire it up, it'll give ya little idea:D
So I guess it would sound like a top-fuel dragster at idle, kinda like a car with low or bad timing?
 
RedRamRules said:
So I guess it would sound like a top-fuel dragster at idle, kinda like a car with low or bad timing?
Juan, think Harley at an idle. You know that thadump, thadump, thadump sound? Sort of like that. Damn, it's hard doing sound effects on a keyboard LOL.
 
Anyone have any dyno info on this cam in a stock motor. Want to know what it does to the lower RPM range, don't want to hurt the bottom.
 

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