Coolant Temps driving me crazy! Help...

Prof said:
You are just plain wrong with this statement...most of us learn to not make absolute statements early in life.

So in my mind this erodes the credibility of the rest of your comments...

I presume you understand my statement.

I understand your statement and stand by mine except for someone thinking about a cold engine not warmed to operating temps. Not what I meant by cooler. Engine for engine , don't care the make ( although haven't done this to my 10 or every car in the world for that matter, but enough to see results)
will run better at 200 vs. 220 or 185 vs. 200. It does make a difference and I have tested with controlled variables such as testing temp, read by ECM/VCM as well as laser thermometer. FOR SURE not saying that an engine at 40 degree block temp will outperform a 200 engine. Operating temp is the key here! What the engine averages cruising at 40 for 10 minutes or 150 for 10 minutes. Depends on the environment you subject your engine to. Whather it's a 1/4 runner, Texas Mile runner, or grocery getter. Sorry to offend your intelligence, was not meant to sound that way. :marchmellow: ;)
 
Venomous1...I agree with a lot you are saying. No question EPA has a huge impact on the engineering of our engines (good&bad), however, I'm one that finds technical articles interesting. In fact I'm reading Nuts, Bolts, Fastners and Plumbing by Carrol Smith and find it hard to put down (wife thinks I'm nuts...get it nuts!) Anyways, virtually every article I've read repeatedly stated Aluminum block engines run better warmer than iron blocks and that while heat control is far more critical w/aluminum it should be run at temps most would consider too warm. No question cooler intake charge is better...can't dispute basic physics.

Yes, I've found the same regarding gauges...highly inaccurate however while ECU temps often show variance often they will pull temps from a different location than what your water temp gauge is reading. Regardless, engineers use the temps, pressures etc that the ECU see's to make adjustments so I often hook up my scanner and read directly but I'm just anal that way. ;)

This whole repeated discussion on 170 thermo's is a bit humorous. People just don't get that if an engine can generate enough heat to exceed the factory thermo than putting a lower thermo will still result in the same higher temps when the engine is under load/working that it did previously. I feel our coolant system is less than adequate. It should be able to hold temps better than it does. Quick solution is to program the fans to come on earlier and run harder sooner. Real solution is to increase cooling capacity.

Using my scanner I see temps move around too often though I will admit its never gotten too hot but I would feel much more comfortable if 90% of my driving resulted in steady water temps.
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
Also a MAJOR overlooked item is the radiator. Being an open grille truck it is subject to all the dragonflies,crickets,grasshoppers, grass, dirt/debris that decreases the efficiency of the radiator cooling.

How much of this crud is actually going to make it to the radiator to cause an efficiency or coolng issue? On my truck, the AC condenser coil is positioned in front of the radiator. I can see accummulated dirt and maybe residue build on the engine radiator causing a problem in the long term sense. But a shot of 50/50 mix of simple green and water with a good hose down should take care of those issues. The AC condenser would need a similar treatment, more frequently IMO, as it's exposure to debris build up is greater than the radiator.
 
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FastRam said:
How much of this crud is actually going to make it to the radiator to cause an efficiency or coolng issue? On my truck, the AC condenser coil is positioned in front of the radiator. I can see accummulated dirt and maybe residue build on the engine radiator causing a problem in the long term sense. But a shot of 50/50 mix of simple green and water with a good hose down should take care of those issues. The AC condenser would need a similar treatment, more frequently IMO, as it's exposure to debris build up is greater than the radiator.

It actually is a good amount that reaches the radiator. The condenser is clogged with the bigger matter as the radiator screens the smaller debris. Dust that has accumulated over time gets wet in rain or washing and hardens and clogs the airways designed to cool our water in the radiator and , freon high side on the condenser. They both should be examined and flushed frequently. You'd be surprised at all the crud that comes out. Grass clippings, dirt, grasshopper parts, plastic bags, cardboard pieces. etc.
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
It actually is a good amount that reaches the radiator. The condenser is clogged with the bigger matter as the radiator screens the smaller debris. Dust that has accumulated over time gets wet in rain or washing and hardens and clogs the airways designed to cool our water in the radiator and , freon high side on the condenser. They both should be examined and flushed frequently. You'd be surprised at all the crud that comes out. Grass clippings, dirt, grasshopper parts, plastic bags, cardboard pieces. etc.

I'll have to look in the AM, but the last time I checked my engine rad was really clean. But then again, I have relatively low miles on the clock (7300 now Big Worm:D ). During my last inspection, the AC condenser had a bunch of "things" splattered on it and several of the fins were folded back, I presume the stones or rocks decided to leave the paint alone...:rock: and went for the fins -- got a tool to straighten them out.
 
DC Performance told me that they had originally used the B&G auto transmission tune but the engine tune was thier own

Having had both I can tell you for a fact that the DC Stage II tune runs smoother,cooler and pulls harder than B&G Stage II,and has almost no decel popping :D

There is no way possible for my computer to have been shipped to California,then to B&G, and then back to me in four days

DC Performance also has top customer service :rock:
 
viperhauler said:
i just talked to dan at dc earlier today...

450 for the comp flash....

but the sct is on sale for 6........damnit.....


seems the SCT is the way to go these days
much easier to change tunes
 

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