Finally finished minus running the purge line and tuning:
First of all I want to thank my powdercoater (my Dad), as he once again did an excellent job on everything. This is a two stage setup with a small dry shot for the first stage (25-50HP) and a larger wet shot for the second stage (100-150). My plan is to spray first with the small shot on the stock tires, and then hit the larger shot in second. Im more worried about 2nd than first, but it really does hook well on concrete streets, even in this weather. With drag radials or DOT's I'll probably spray it all out of the hole, so it wont need to be two stages.
To prevent distribution problems we drilled and tapped the manifold and placed the nozzles right after the TB. This was decided after much debate with a fellow N20 Junkie and good friend, Joe Donovan of Performacne by Joe (Viper tuner, and I consider him to be the worlds best VEC2 and Roe blower tuner). The air inlet for the TB's are always elbows, so it makes it difficult to evenly distribute N20 and fuel on both sides, with the nozzles as we did them, the distribution is as good as its going to get from a non-fogger style system. The smaller dry shot sprays into the CAI tube and will distribute reasonably well. Its not nearly as critical because there is no fuel spraying there, and its such a small shot on such a large engine.
We made a custom bracket for the solenoids and mounted them above the intake to keep the nozzle feed lines short. The lines are all hardline 3/16" stainless except the fuel and N20 solenoid inlets. I also removed the extra battery tray and made a bracket to hold the VEC2 and the N20 relays. The VEC2 will act as my window switch, and it allows multiple tunes for different levels of N20, plus a max power (no timing removed) N/A tune. The purge will eventually run from under the intake, up through the hood light wiring, under the hood pad, and out the NACA duct using 3/16 1000Psi rated black nylon tube. You can see the stainless hardline going under the manifold now, and I will use a high pressure compression fitting to connect the lines.
Inside I made a custom dash panel that holds switches for the dry shot, the wet shot, the bottle heater, and the purge. Theres also LEDs for the first three switches, an AEM wideband guage, and the serial port connector for the VEC2 (download tunes on the fly with my laptop or windows mobile device). I think Im going to swap the oil temp guage in the pillar and the AEM though, as its a little too low to read while accelerating.
Also inside, I mounted my TPAS switch (reads TPS voltage to turn N20 on under WOT instead of the microswitches that always fail) and heater relay (and trailer brake controller) under the lower console. I mounted the bottle behind the passengers seat (lost approx 2" of seat back travel, but the wife approved LOL) and it has a heater and guage on it. The bottle has a Viper head logo that is powdercoated in (thanks again Dad!). I like having the bottle inside instead of in the bed, as I can open it while driving down the road, it stays in the correct temperature range better, and by standing it up, you can get more N20 out of it without loosing pressure. You do lose some inside storage and a little seatback travel however.
I cant wait to get some #'s and track times from this thing, the truck made 441/471 with just the CAI and manifold back catless dual 3" exhaust. Since then Ive added Belanger long tubes, the VEC2 and the N20, hopefully I'll have time within a week or two to get it down to Performance by Joes dyno.
Justin
First of all I want to thank my powdercoater (my Dad), as he once again did an excellent job on everything. This is a two stage setup with a small dry shot for the first stage (25-50HP) and a larger wet shot for the second stage (100-150). My plan is to spray first with the small shot on the stock tires, and then hit the larger shot in second. Im more worried about 2nd than first, but it really does hook well on concrete streets, even in this weather. With drag radials or DOT's I'll probably spray it all out of the hole, so it wont need to be two stages.
To prevent distribution problems we drilled and tapped the manifold and placed the nozzles right after the TB. This was decided after much debate with a fellow N20 Junkie and good friend, Joe Donovan of Performacne by Joe (Viper tuner, and I consider him to be the worlds best VEC2 and Roe blower tuner). The air inlet for the TB's are always elbows, so it makes it difficult to evenly distribute N20 and fuel on both sides, with the nozzles as we did them, the distribution is as good as its going to get from a non-fogger style system. The smaller dry shot sprays into the CAI tube and will distribute reasonably well. Its not nearly as critical because there is no fuel spraying there, and its such a small shot on such a large engine.
We made a custom bracket for the solenoids and mounted them above the intake to keep the nozzle feed lines short. The lines are all hardline 3/16" stainless except the fuel and N20 solenoid inlets. I also removed the extra battery tray and made a bracket to hold the VEC2 and the N20 relays. The VEC2 will act as my window switch, and it allows multiple tunes for different levels of N20, plus a max power (no timing removed) N/A tune. The purge will eventually run from under the intake, up through the hood light wiring, under the hood pad, and out the NACA duct using 3/16 1000Psi rated black nylon tube. You can see the stainless hardline going under the manifold now, and I will use a high pressure compression fitting to connect the lines.
Inside I made a custom dash panel that holds switches for the dry shot, the wet shot, the bottle heater, and the purge. Theres also LEDs for the first three switches, an AEM wideband guage, and the serial port connector for the VEC2 (download tunes on the fly with my laptop or windows mobile device). I think Im going to swap the oil temp guage in the pillar and the AEM though, as its a little too low to read while accelerating.
Also inside, I mounted my TPAS switch (reads TPS voltage to turn N20 on under WOT instead of the microswitches that always fail) and heater relay (and trailer brake controller) under the lower console. I mounted the bottle behind the passengers seat (lost approx 2" of seat back travel, but the wife approved LOL) and it has a heater and guage on it. The bottle has a Viper head logo that is powdercoated in (thanks again Dad!). I like having the bottle inside instead of in the bed, as I can open it while driving down the road, it stays in the correct temperature range better, and by standing it up, you can get more N20 out of it without loosing pressure. You do lose some inside storage and a little seatback travel however.
I cant wait to get some #'s and track times from this thing, the truck made 441/471 with just the CAI and manifold back catless dual 3" exhaust. Since then Ive added Belanger long tubes, the VEC2 and the N20, hopefully I'll have time within a week or two to get it down to Performance by Joes dyno.
Justin
