Dealer Told Me Ceramic Brake Pads Will Warp The Stock Rotors???

rreinicherr

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I took my truck into the dealer to have a Suncoast Valve Body put in, tranny fluid change(Redline), rear differential oil changed(Redline), and then install the brake pads. I have the Posi Quiet Ceramic brake pads. They decided not to install them because it will warp my stock rotors. Too much heat is what the their tech said. They advised me to get after market slotted rotors to use with these brake pads. The only rotors they could find were Brembo rotors for 145 each. Does this make sense?


I was going to have my rotors turned and the pads installed. What do you guys think?

THANKS!
 
rreinicherr said:
I took my truck into the dealer to have a Suncoast Valve Body put in, tranny fluid change(Redline), rear differential oil changed(Redline), and then install the brake pads. I have the Posi Quiet Ceramic brake pads. They decided not to install them because it will warp my stock rotors. Too much heat is what the their tech said. They advised me to get after market slotted rotors to use with these brake pads. The only rotors they could find were Brembo rotors for 145 each. Does this make sense?


I was going to have my rotors turned and the pads installed. What do you guys think?

THANKS!

There have been many issues with ceramic prake pads.

When Raybestos came out with a ceramic pad about 6 years ago I put some on my 98 blown Expedition.

They destroyed 3 pairs of stock rotors and 2 pairs of cross drilled and groved rotors. This was in 10000 miles,the stock pads lasted 50000 miles.
I went with a Wagner semi metallic pad that were still on when I sold it at 112000 miles.


I went with PFriction pads all the way around on the red truck and they work well with very little dusting.

I cannot say all fully ceramic pads are bad but I had a lot of bad luck with Raybestos. I can understand why the brake man is apprehensive.
 
check out the thread on the EBC rotors.....:rock:...I have run carbon-ceramic pads on other cars....they get hot but grab like a mofo....:dontknow:
 
I got the posiquiet pads for both my SRT10 and my SRT8. They work awesome with very low dust.

I have had them on the SRT8 longer with about 10k miles, no issues at all.

Had the posi's on the 10 for about 2k miles no issues at all.
 
rreinicherr said:
I took my truck into the dealer to have a Suncoast Valve Body put in, tranny fluid change(Redline), rear differential oil changed(Redline), and then install the brake pads. I have the Posi Quiet Ceramic brake pads. They decided not to install them because it will warp my stock rotors. Too much heat is what the their tech said. They advised me to get after market slotted rotors to use with these brake pads. The only rotors they could find were Brembo rotors for 145 each. Does this make sense?


I was going to have my rotors turned and the pads installed. What do you guys think?

THANKS!
Your dealer didn't look like this did he?
 
I am sorry but I have to ask. :dontknow: Who is in the pic?????
 
rreinicherr said:
I am sorry but I have to ask. :dontknow: Who is in the pic?????
That is my friends Keven ( Voo-Doo ) And Patrick ( Red srt007 )

J.R.
 
rreinicherr said:
I took my truck into the dealer to have a Suncoast Valve Body put in, tranny fluid change(Redline), rear differential oil changed(Redline), and then install the brake pads. I have the Posi Quiet Ceramic brake pads. They decided not to install them because it will warp my stock rotors. Too much heat is what the their tech said. They advised me to get after market slotted rotors to use with these brake pads. The only rotors they could find were Brembo rotors for 145 each. Does this make sense?


I was going to have my rotors turned and the pads installed. What do you guys think?

THANKS!
Interesting info you got from the dealer about Brembo rotors. According to the company website, "NO DATA FOUND" on rotors for the Ram SRT-10.

If you want EXCELLENT brake pad and rotor advice, here's the place to visit:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/
Email David Zeckhausen and ask him about the ceramic stuff. He will give you the straight-up facts on them.
 
rreinicherr said:
I took my truck into the dealer to have a Suncoast Valve Body put in, tranny fluid change(Redline), rear differential oil changed(Redline), and then install the brake pads. I have the Posi Quiet Ceramic brake pads. They decided not to install them because it will warp my stock rotors. Too much heat is what the their tech said. They advised me to get after market slotted rotors to use with these brake pads. The only rotors they could find were Brembo rotors for 145 each. Does this make sense?
What are the part numbers on the box of front pads? Centric doesn't make the SRT-10 front pads in their "ceramic" compound. They only make the Posi-Quiet semi-metallic and C-Tek semi-metallic. The rear pads are available in the Posi-Quiet Ceramic compound. If the first 3 digits of the part number are "106", then you have the Semi-Metallic pads. If the first 3 digits are 105, then you have ceramic.

What your dealer is telling you about "ceramic" pads warping the rotors is complete nonsense and based on a lack of understanding of the physics of braking and root cause of brake judder. Heat is created by your brakes in direct relation to the speed from which you brake, the weight of the vehicle, and the distance over which you completed the stop. You're converting the kinetic energy of the vehicle into thermal energy. It doesn't matter what kind of pads you have.

Speaking of "ceramic" pads, this is a creation of pad manufacturers' marketing departments. Ceramic is just one of about 30 different ingredients and comprises anywhere from 1 to 5 percent of the pad compound. A "ceramic" pad is not made from a solid chunk of ceramic. And just because the box says "CERAMIC" on the outside, you can not assume anything about the performance or behavior of the pads. There are ceramic pads that are low dust, there are others that are high dust. Some have very low grip, others have high grip. Some are ultra quiet and others are for race only and will make your car or truck sound like an old school bus. The marketers have tricked consumers into calling up their vendor and asking for a single ingredient, rather than asking technical questions about initial bite, average friction level, maximum operating temperature, dust level, pad life, rotor wear, noise, etc. Just because you or your mechanic had a good or bad experience with one brand of ceramic pad does not mean you will have the same good or bad experience with another brand of ceramic pad. Seeing the word "ceramic" on the side of the box tells you nothing! If you like a pad, make note of the brand and model. Don't simply tell someone they should buy (or avoid) ceramic, semi-metallic, Kevlar, etc. pads.

The SRT-10 uses gigantic 15" front rotors that weigh 40 pounds each. These have plenty of thermal capacity and will not "warp" from braking. In fact, rotors virtually never warp. The steering wheel shake you experience is actually caused by a thickness variation in the rotors that is the result of uneven pad deposits. This can almost always be cured by re-bedding the brakes per: Bedding in brakes. In case you're interested, you can read details about the physics of brake judder in this excellent white paper written by the late Carroll Smith on StopTech's web site: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
 
David Zeckhausen

Great information? Thanks!!!!! :rock:

I will check the part numbers also.
 
David beat me to it.

Energy is converted to heat, and it will be the same regardless of the pad or rotor type/size.
 
DZeckhausen said:
What are the part numbers on the box of front pads? Centric doesn't make the SRT-10 front pads in their "ceramic" compound. They only make the Posi-Quiet semi-metallic and C-Tek semi-metallic. The rear pads are available in the Posi-Quiet Ceramic compound. If the first 3 digits of the part number are "106", then you have the Semi-Metallic pads. If the first 3 digits are 105, then you have ceramic.

What your dealer is telling you about "ceramic" pads warping the rotors is complete nonsense and based on a lack of understanding of the physics of braking and root cause of brake judder. Heat is created by your brakes in direct relation to the speed from which you brake, the weight of the vehicle, and the distance over which you completed the stop. You're converting the kinetic energy of the vehicle into thermal energy. It doesn't matter what kind of pads you have.

Speaking of "ceramic" pads, this is a creation of pad manufacturers' marketing departments. Ceramic is just one of about 30 different ingredients and comprises anywhere from 1 to 5 percent of the pad compound. A "ceramic" pad is not made from a solid chunk of ceramic. And just because the box says "CERAMIC" on the outside, you can not assume anything about the performance or behavior of the pads. There are ceramic pads that are low dust, there are others that are high dust. Some have very low grip, others have high grip. Some are ultra quiet and others are for race only and will make your car or truck sound like an old school bus. The marketers have tricked consumers into calling up their vendor and asking for a single ingredient, rather than asking technical questions about initial bite, average friction level, maximum operating temperature, dust level, pad life, rotor wear, noise, etc. Just because you or your mechanic had a good or bad experience with one brand of ceramic pad does not mean you will have the same good or bad experience with another brand of ceramic pad. Seeing the word "ceramic" on the side of the box tells you nothing! If you like a pad, make note of the brand and model. Don't simply tell someone they should buy (or avoid) ceramic, semi-metallic, Kevlar, etc. pads.

The SRT-10 uses gigantic 15" front rotors that weigh 40 pounds each. These have plenty of thermal capacity and will not "warp" from braking. In fact, rotors virtually never warp. The steering wheel shake you experience is actually caused by a thickness variation in the rotors that is the result of uneven pad deposits. This can almost always be cured by re-bedding the brakes per: Bedding in brakes. In case you're interested, you can read details about the physics of brake judder in this excellent white paper written by the late Carroll Smith on StopTech's web site: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
he's right.........

my '04 jeep gc had the brake shudder until i bedded the brakes as he describes on his website......

thanks dave!!!!:D
 

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