i want to have my throttle body powdercoated, what all is involved removing the guts, i understand the bearings are the tough part...what is needed to do this (special tools?):dontknow:
DISASSEMBLY OF THROTTLE BODY
- Thread starter SANCHOBA
- Start date
Marc T
Full Access Member
Once we recieve our new ones fron Roe, I am sure there will be alot of info on this.
I know some grinding is involved to remove some screws. I am sure there are otheres who have alredy done it with the Hennesey and X-Metal TB's!!
Post up you smucks!!
I know some grinding is involved to remove some screws. I am sure there are otheres who have alredy done it with the Hennesey and X-Metal TB's!!
Post up you smucks!!
thats an idea,but if i could get it apart i could have it done here locally the same day!
so.. you are re-using the stock bearings?
nobody on this forum has disassembled a throttle body?:dontknow: don't make me SICK mikey on ya!
BUMP!
scar426
Full Access Member
scot, here's some stuff from the other site, don't know if it'll help, but maybe try and ask the stinkman,
Will
I got'er all bolted back together. However, I need to wait for the roads and weather to improve before taking a test drive. It's supposed to be nice the rest of the week, so maybe the snow will melt and roads dry by the weekend.
There are some things I thought I would pass on to anyone thinking about porting their TB. First, the throttle plate screws need to have the back of them ground off before you attempt to unscrew them. They stick through the back of the throttle shaft about 1/8" and they "buck" them like a rivet from the factory (deforms them enough so they can never accidentally come loose or back out). I replaced the stock screws with a set of new ones that I coated with red threadlock (strongest). I also used a Sharpie medium point marker to outline the throttle plates to the throttle body so once I removed them I knew how far to port without affecting where the throttle plates seal. I get all of my porting supplies from Eastwood in case anyone wonders where you can get them. I do not recommend using a burr for anyone who is not familiar with porting aluminum. A mandrel with some 80 grit straight and tapered rolls will work pretty well without accidentally taking too much off. I finish with 240 grit. Feel free to email/PM me if you have any questions.
-Muzzy
These are the pics I have the first is before the finished polishing the next two are stock, and the last is of John H's. I basically sharpened up the center and smoothed it out. And opened up the outer edge. You can really see the difference when comparing the two together. It definitly took awhile, ALOT of material was removed, so be patient, and remember to be careful around the area where the blades close, I took too much off in one area and had to reshape the blade and adjust the throttle stop because I wasnt paying attenttion but you'll do fine. I just wanted to see if it made a difference with just a little time , and not the spending. And honestly between the 2, The ported one felt better. You can see how much air is sucked in on the John H TB. I think it will work alot better on a modified, or forced induction engine. When I put it on stock you could actually hear the sucking of air, and almost felt like it hurt some on bottom. But good luck and have fun, like I say , hell cant hurt and you got the time. You could also remove the intake while your at it and port match it , or polish it with the lovely weather you got See ya in the morn, gotta give a pillow a head job been up since about 2am.
Stinker
Ok got my throttle bodie today. took about 2 weeks to get. first they had a problem with shiping. Ok it happens, so they sent it next day that was nice of them. So I take of my old one and as I'm comparing the the two of them I notice the shaft ends are different. I called them up and they had sent me the wrong one, this ones for a viper not the truck. ok another mistake, it happens. They say I can just take out the shaft and use my old one one its not thaqt simple and two iI just paid 540 bucks for this thing i shouldn't have to take the wrong pice they sent me and make it a right one but I fugure hey I have a few hours and I dont feel like shipping the one they sent me and my old one back to them because they didn't have a core. Ok now the fun part, first the screws in the shaft needed to be drilled out because the ends were swedged in, then I had to re tap the threads in the shaft then debur it. now that was done I notice the machining on the inside was not as well as it should have been the butterfly was sticking in one corner, so now i had to take it apart and massage the throttle opening with some emery to get rid of their machine marks. so in retro spect I gues I either should have bought the hennensy for a 200 extra dollars or just made one my self because basicly thats what i did. Now they have the balls to charge me an extra 300 dollars if i dont return the core. I am going to try to work things out with this company but if this product and custamer service continues there will be hell to pay. Just wanted you guys to know before you bought anything from them
AVMECH
Will
I got'er all bolted back together. However, I need to wait for the roads and weather to improve before taking a test drive. It's supposed to be nice the rest of the week, so maybe the snow will melt and roads dry by the weekend.
There are some things I thought I would pass on to anyone thinking about porting their TB. First, the throttle plate screws need to have the back of them ground off before you attempt to unscrew them. They stick through the back of the throttle shaft about 1/8" and they "buck" them like a rivet from the factory (deforms them enough so they can never accidentally come loose or back out). I replaced the stock screws with a set of new ones that I coated with red threadlock (strongest). I also used a Sharpie medium point marker to outline the throttle plates to the throttle body so once I removed them I knew how far to port without affecting where the throttle plates seal. I get all of my porting supplies from Eastwood in case anyone wonders where you can get them. I do not recommend using a burr for anyone who is not familiar with porting aluminum. A mandrel with some 80 grit straight and tapered rolls will work pretty well without accidentally taking too much off. I finish with 240 grit. Feel free to email/PM me if you have any questions.
-Muzzy
These are the pics I have the first is before the finished polishing the next two are stock, and the last is of John H's. I basically sharpened up the center and smoothed it out. And opened up the outer edge. You can really see the difference when comparing the two together. It definitly took awhile, ALOT of material was removed, so be patient, and remember to be careful around the area where the blades close, I took too much off in one area and had to reshape the blade and adjust the throttle stop because I wasnt paying attenttion but you'll do fine. I just wanted to see if it made a difference with just a little time , and not the spending. And honestly between the 2, The ported one felt better. You can see how much air is sucked in on the John H TB. I think it will work alot better on a modified, or forced induction engine. When I put it on stock you could actually hear the sucking of air, and almost felt like it hurt some on bottom. But good luck and have fun, like I say , hell cant hurt and you got the time. You could also remove the intake while your at it and port match it , or polish it with the lovely weather you got See ya in the morn, gotta give a pillow a head job been up since about 2am.
Stinker
Ok got my throttle bodie today. took about 2 weeks to get. first they had a problem with shiping. Ok it happens, so they sent it next day that was nice of them. So I take of my old one and as I'm comparing the the two of them I notice the shaft ends are different. I called them up and they had sent me the wrong one, this ones for a viper not the truck. ok another mistake, it happens. They say I can just take out the shaft and use my old one one its not thaqt simple and two iI just paid 540 bucks for this thing i shouldn't have to take the wrong pice they sent me and make it a right one but I fugure hey I have a few hours and I dont feel like shipping the one they sent me and my old one back to them because they didn't have a core. Ok now the fun part, first the screws in the shaft needed to be drilled out because the ends were swedged in, then I had to re tap the threads in the shaft then debur it. now that was done I notice the machining on the inside was not as well as it should have been the butterfly was sticking in one corner, so now i had to take it apart and massage the throttle opening with some emery to get rid of their machine marks. so in retro spect I gues I either should have bought the hennensy for a 200 extra dollars or just made one my self because basicly thats what i did. Now they have the balls to charge me an extra 300 dollars if i dont return the core. I am going to try to work things out with this company but if this product and custamer service continues there will be hell to pay. Just wanted you guys to know before you bought anything from them
AVMECH
Let me sees if I can remember without having one in front of me
remove the tb via the 4 bolts, bottom right is the worst.
remove the vacuum lines and the tps sensor connector
remover the tb
remove the tps sensor via the two small torx heads and slide out
next mark the two blades so that you will know which side they return to.
then take a small file and file off the backside of the screw that hold on the blades.
Now this is the pain bruddha, slowly work the screws out a small amount at a time, this is very important they are soft and snap off easily?, use some WD40 or some kind of lube, work them back in , and out until they are all the way out. now dont get cocky and think they are commin out and jsut start screwin away, you will get right to the end and they will snap if ya do that
so slowly all the way out.
next after the screws are out, flip open the blades, and work out the blades, the shaft is split down the middle and the blades jsut slide out.
Next with a rubber mallet tap the end of the shaft where the tps was, the shaft may jsut slide out, but I always ended up tappin it a bit.
Also take note of how the spring is wound on the shaft, it must go back the same way.
then slide out the shaft.
Now the bearings are a pain, and you most likely may mess them up, so if powdercoating you may want to plug the ends with something and leave them in there.
if not
then you will need a small blunt punch to get into the lip of the bearing, and slowly and easily tap them out, but be carful they are a tad fragile
remove the tb via the 4 bolts, bottom right is the worst.
remove the vacuum lines and the tps sensor connector
remover the tb
remove the tps sensor via the two small torx heads and slide out
next mark the two blades so that you will know which side they return to.
then take a small file and file off the backside of the screw that hold on the blades.
Now this is the pain bruddha, slowly work the screws out a small amount at a time, this is very important they are soft and snap off easily?, use some WD40 or some kind of lube, work them back in , and out until they are all the way out. now dont get cocky and think they are commin out and jsut start screwin away, you will get right to the end and they will snap if ya do that
so slowly all the way out.
next after the screws are out, flip open the blades, and work out the blades, the shaft is split down the middle and the blades jsut slide out.
Next with a rubber mallet tap the end of the shaft where the tps was, the shaft may jsut slide out, but I always ended up tappin it a bit.
Also take note of how the spring is wound on the shaft, it must go back the same way.
then slide out the shaft.
Now the bearings are a pain, and you most likely may mess them up, so if powdercoating you may want to plug the ends with something and leave them in there.
if not
then you will need a small blunt punch to get into the lip of the bearing, and slowly and easily tap them out, but be carful they are a tad fragile
kool..thanks scar426 and stink.....one more thing, if i leave the bearings in, the heat from the powdercoating process won't harm them?
SANCHOBA said:
honestly that I am not sure of:dontknow: ,best option, remove them, its not that bad really, jsut takes patience
Maybe Pm fstjack or he will chime in, cause I dont want to tell ya wrong bro, the heat shouldnt affect the bearing itself, but ya may want to add some grease before reinstalling, but the seal if it has one, (cant readily remember) may be affected by the heat
Begood
Full Access Member
If they are a sealed bearing there is a good chance the heat will hurt them.
Bill.
Bill.
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