DIY tile project

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sirhc76

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Sorry post in general discussion so I moved it.

Since I know we have people with all kinds of talents Ill ask. Im about to tile my upstairs master bath floor since it had carpet in it. The floor seems very sturdy no bouncing or loose boards. I plan to lay down concrete backer board anyhow. Do I need to coat the floor decking with any type of water barrier prior to doing this? I have read and seen many different opinions on this and cant seem to decide.

Thanks everyone,

Chris
 
sirhc76 said:
Sorry post in general discussion so I moved it.

Since I know we have people with all kinds of talents Ill ask. Im about to tile my upstairs master bath floor since it had carpet in it. The floor seems very sturdy no bouncing or loose boards. I plan to lay down concrete backer board anyhow. Do I need to coat the floor decking with any type of water barrier prior to doing this? I have read and seen many different opinions on this and cant seem to decide.

Thanks everyone,

Chris
Click to expand...

Instead of using the concrete backer board, I used a self leveling concrete mixture. Ended up being about a 1/4 inch thick and no joints.
 
This is a good question for our resident Home Depot expert/ everyones boy toy Mikey...lol

As long as you go with the backer board I would think you are ok..Never saw anyone seal the floor before the backer board goes down..
 
I thought about the mud as well, the HD guy talked me into the backer board. He also invited me to the tile class they have today starting at 830 am ending at 5pm. Im sure it is a great class and may save me some work but I cant sit that long and listen to someone talking about tile. Going to get to work on this thing in hopes that I have it knocked out before the wife gets home tomorrow.
 
I think that either way will work. The backer board will give you about the same thickness as the concrete that John is talking about, but it can be difficult to work with. (Cut)

The self-leveling concrete has the advantage of giving you an (almost) perfectly level floor. But, this will need to cure before you can lay the tile on it.

I think it pretty much comes down to personal choice.

Also, if you use the backer board, you don't need to use a sealer, but it wouldn't hurt. Just make sure that your seams are nice and tight!
 
Another thing to consider is the elevation from one room to the other. You do not want the floor in the bath higher than the other. ( My .02 )


J.R.
 
Thanks guys, The adjoining bedroom is carpet for now and the toilet is in its own room within the bath. The toilet room already has tile in it and has backer board underneath the tile so this should match up. Im not about to rip the tile out of the crapper. Pulling up the toilet and cutting tile to go around it doesnt sound fun. Carpet and tack boards are out, floor is clean and Im about to tear some stuff up. I did find a bob villa video as well so no I can assure myself Im doing it Bobs way :)

Chris
 
sirhc76 said:
Sorry post in general discussion so I moved it.

Since I know we have people with all kinds of talents Ill ask. Im about to tile my upstairs master bath floor since it had carpet in it. The floor seems very sturdy no bouncing or loose boards. I plan to lay down concrete backer board anyhow. Do I need to coat the floor decking with any type of water barrier prior to doing this? I have read and seen many different opinions on this and cant seem to decide.

Thanks everyone,

Chris
Click to expand...
If floor is out thenfloat 1.5 in sand mix on wire lath. If not then use 1 layer of WB screwed and installed with latex modifed thinset mortar. If you are doing marble or granite installation I would reccomend going with the 1.5 of mud and install tile simultaneously ( mud set) if thats within your skill range

Steve
 
nycstev said:
If floor is out thenfloat 1.5 in sand mix on wire lath. If not then use 1 layer of WB screwed and installed with latex modifed thinset mortar. If you are doing marble or granite installation I would reccomend going with the 1.5 of mud and install tile simultaneously ( mud set) if thats within your skill range

Steve
Click to expand...


I used the second mentioned process, layer of WB screwed into the decking. I used admix instead of water on the thinset and it worked well. I am installing 16 inch ceramic tiles and currently have all the big tiles laid out. I am going to rent the tile saw tonight and bust out the cuts tomorrow am. This should give me time to install my last two of eight ceiling fans and get my BBQ ready for Bucke and Whitesnake. Now Im going to work on the three nice blisters the trowel left in the middle of my hand.


Thanks all,

Chris
 
Good luck... Done many tile floors myself over the years. Just make sure you have enough room for the door to swing in and not hit the tile. You may have to cut down the door to get the proper undercut. Dont forget a marble saddlee. They make all kinds that can fit your need. The rental tile cutter I hope is a wetsaw. HD rents those and work well.

The cement board durock works great too.
 
ok if you use the backer board, it gives it room to expand. the mix is good, but no expansion room. over time it will crack underneath as the house settles and with temp changes. use the backerboard, and you will be fine. that is what we use on every job and it turns out amazing each time hope this helps
 
use backerboard

use the backerboard cuts like sheetrock with razor also stagger the edges (corners,ends)use galvanised roofing nails to secure to floor a little liquid nail helps to,I also use roofing felt under backerboard 15lbs you should at least use a kraft paper under it I just like the felt myself good mositure barrier especally on remodels the real trick is a grout that contains the sealer (sticky requires quick cleanup on tile surface) have a couple gallon water buckets and water vinigar mix buckets for this fill free to pm me for help
 
shade said:
How much is a good price to pay someone to lay some tile?
A buck a square foot?
Click to expand...


Dude you gotta be kidding!!! I just redid my kitchen and 3 bathrooms. Paid $7 a foot for the tile work.....everything else was $30 an hour and I was very happy to pay that............remember I am on Maui and you cant get anybody to show up for less.

I used backer board on the walls and floor. For my shower I used Hydrobond ($175 for 2 gallons) painted the floors and walls right on the backerboard and a rubber layer(cant remember the name) that was placed over the subfloor under the cement mix on the shower floor. My original shower leaked so I went overboard on the sealing.

First pic is master bath before. Next 3 are finished master bath. 5th one is guest bath, same theme as the other, Travertino tile and travertine floor, chair railing and rope around mirror. Granite counters. Also put in a venting skylight in the master bath.....f#cking awesome as that room had no window, and is now the brightest room in the house and much cooler. Also found out shower doors are stupid expensive...........half inch glass door, $1664 installed!!!! Ouch, but I couldnt cheap out after all I had done.

patrick
 
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First pic is of the skylight in the master bath.

Rest are of the kitchen. Granite is Emerald Pearl. I really dig it......as the light conditions change so does its look. Also painted the walls, ceiling, new light fixtures, cabinet pulls, lighted switches, sink, faucets, disposal etc....

Final pic is downstairs half bath......same theme and materials.

It cost a shitload but my house feels like a new home now. I did all the demo work and paid an expert to do the rest. House was under construction for 2 months.......but it was worth it.

patrick
 
my dad owns a tile business
we lay down the hardybacker which is basicly the same as wat ur using just more water resistant and on all the joints we put a membrane to seal it thats all u need just make shure the hardy backer is screwed on to the floor
if u really want to go pro u can lay some multiset then the hardybacker so it holds more but not needed
 
ramviper10 said:
my dad owns a tile business
we lay down the hardybacker which is basicly the same as wat ur using just more water resistant and on all the joints we put a membrane to seal it thats all u need just make shure the hardy backer is screwed on to the floor
if u really want to go pro u can lay some multiset then the hardybacker so it holds more but not needed
Click to expand...


:dito:
I have layed a LOT of tile...porcelain, ceramic, travertine...ect. We are blessed here in FL with slab construction, so no need for a substrate as hardyboard, untill you start tiling walls or frame construction.
And as stated use the modified thinset.... if you want overkill you can add a bonding agent to the thinset, but be prepared to move your ass, as it will set quicker on you.
 
Just FIY the very best thin sets and morters are made by company called Mapei..........Google them as the product is not avail to Home Depot but you can special order it from Lowe's :D
 
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