DODGE TECHS/anyone in the know chime in please!

VENOMOUS1 RACING

Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
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I am still fighting my truck running like crap and have yet to have a direction to go in as the only occasional check engine light I get from the right rear O2 and have replaced it already with still an occasional slow response code 159.This shouldn't affect fueling though correct? It acts like a fuel pump problem, or regualtor problem but pressure is dead on 60 even when it acts up? It goes into this seizure type, choking episode and goes very rich although I cannot tell if one side of both but fumes up the truck. Usually about 60MPH during a coast or light decel.I can barely accel a lil bit and she'll pull like a freight train ( usually doesn't)! TPS not the issue!! After datalogging with different scanners I have come to 2 conclusions for now needing verified somehow by anyone with a 10 and a scanner/datalogger.

1. My knock sensors are bouncing between .29 volts and 3.*volts like an )2 sensor? Should they do this?

2. Truck sometimes has an erratic idle I assume is associated? Map sensor? What should it be at idle on a factory truck? Idle smooths right up when in Reverse or Drive and stays same RPMs? Just clears up?

3. I can tell a vacuum difference when this episode occurs as the brakes are VERY easy to apply. Like a new car or how the brakes should be. ( Brake booster leak?)

4. I have seen and not sure how accurate the datalogger was, but saw the right Bank 1 sensor 1 O2 go completely dead to 0.00 volts during this time and come back to life a lil later, I am thinking this is something to do with it all. I believe it also at the same time makes the rear on the same side go to 0.00 volts? I have already changed the O2s and even twice on a couple. Same intermittent thing. Visually cheked the wiring from O2s and rechecked and plugged in PCM and harness pak connectors. Clean as new they were!
Only place I can't see is in the big wire loom that goes behind the head. It is not rubbing or anything though?
5. Crank sensor?? Cam sensor has been replaced to no avail, AI kow it operates in sync with the Crank sensor though? Most claim a NO START CONDTION with a crank sensor though. Mine does act like it becomes out of sync for a few minutes and kicks back in. Like timing is taken away abruptly and comes back on accel?
6. It also seems to affect the truck shifting very early as well. Already replaced the Gov. Pressure solonoid and transducer? Doesn't TPS and MAP control shifting, if not what does?
Pleeeeeeeeeease help me help us figure this out for future reference. Went from 15 MPG to 11 and want this mileage and power back!!:mad: :D
 
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Do the issues occur with or without the BG tune?
 
TPS is for throttle postion which would mess with idle and so forth but would not cause a lean/rich condition. Now your map sensor would cause the running rich/lean. Before your replace anything else you can check he wiring to both and make sure no wires look pinched and look close and feel them for a little dent because they operate at such a low voltage any added resitance will mess with things. Your map sensor could also have crap in it messing with readings. Now the odds of them going at the same time haven't seen it. Check your wiring grounds everything.
 
i had a problem like this with mine the exhaust shop pulled the wires from the plug on a front 02 sensor on the harness side. i ended up having to take it to the dodge dealer and have him install a new connector after numerous sensor replacements. cost me about 300.00 in labor but i couldnt get it done and didnt have a lift. you need some stretch armstrong arms to reach one of the plugs on top of the transmission. might look at that or check to make sure no pins are bent in the connectors.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Dom especially! I have a few more ideas to check out when I get home. This crank position sensor has me wondering. I will indeed check all connectors on O2s once again, but I changed them to try and resolve this issue. :dontknow:
 
Had a similar problem with mine last year. I couldn't track it down and the dealership kept it for a week trying to figure it out. It turned out to be a burned section of the wiring harness near the headers that went to the crank sensor. It only acted up during really rainy days when water would splash up on it. Don't know if this helps or not.:dontknow:
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
Happen with and without tune. Happens with 2 diff PCMs?

I would check your wiring next and grounds, look for broken, kinked, damaged or abraded insulation and check the sensor connectors. Look for broken or bent pins and sockets, make sure they (the pins and sockets) are aligned and centered in the socket body and make sure the connector bodies are not cracked or damaged otherwise. Do you have access to a service manual? I recall the troubleshooting matrices or process maps provide step by step procedures along with various/acceptable values for sensor voltage and resistance levels. If you can't track down the problem this way you may need to visit a shop or a dealer that has a Chrysler scan tool -- to help diagnose or pin point the problem. Swapping out sensors in hopes of correcting a problem can get expensive. I just purchased a new IAT sensor for the CAI I installed. It was $50 at the dealer...
 
4DR VYPR said:
Had a similar problem with mine last year. I couldn't track it down and the dealership kept it for a week trying to figure it out. It turned out to be a burned section of the wiring harness near the headers that went to the crank sensor. It only acted up during really rainy days when water would splash up on it. Don't know if this helps or not.:dontknow:

This makes alot of sense. I am going to be checking this out tonite as I didn't get to it yesterday. Thanks for the reply!:rock:
 
TNVIPER said:
What data logger are you using?..
I have used a Snap -On and a DTC version. I really want to see if someone with an 05 can see what the knock sensors are supposed to be reading at idle. Mine with just key on bounces like O2 sensors and I am 99% sure that isn't correct. At least not like that on other manufacturers. Usually a minimum low voltage that's steady unless knock/detonation detected (frequency monitered).
Mine bounces between .29 volts and 3.5ish every second. Truck running or even just key on/ engine off.:dontknow:
 
Just so you know snap on only does the basic stuff. Chrysler's drb III tool is made by 2 companies. I went through this with my emission shit. snap on tool can not do what the drb tool can do. Spend the 75 bucks diagnostic time save yourself the aggrivation. You can be there when they do it too.
 

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