Doing Clutch and Hydrolic upgrade tomorrow

[Tooloe]

Anything i should look out for? that other people have ran into... looks pretty stright forward..the jmb upgraded hydrolics didn't come with any instrustions so i was kinda wondering about the spacers

 

[Silverbullet08]

LINKAGE - SRT-10
REMOVAL
1. Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs on clutch housing.
CAUTION: The hydraulic linkage has a quick disconnect
at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
never be disconnected or tampered with. Once the
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should never be disconnected.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove heat shield over hydraulic line.
4. Remove slave cylinder (2) from clutch housing.
5. Remove plastic clip securing the hydraulic line to
the dash panel from the lower dash panel flange.
6. Remove plastic clip securing hydraulic line to the
dash panel from the upper dash panel stud.
7. Lower vehicle.
8. Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch connector
(2).
9. Remove clutch master cylinder rod pin (3).
10. Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight. This will avoid spillage during removal.
11. Remove clutch master cylinder nuts holding the to
the dash panel.
12. Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and connecting
lines from vehicle.

INSTALLATION
1. Position cylinders and connecting line in vehicle
engine compartment. Position clutch hydraulic line
against the dash panel and behind all engine
hoses and wiring.
2. Apply a light coating of grease to the inside diameter
of the master cylinder push rod 93) eye.
3. Install clutch master cylinder (1) on dash panel and
tighten clutch master cylinder nuts to 28 N•m (21 ft.
lbs.). Install shim here between firewall and factory bracket
4. Install clutch master cylinder push rod pin.
5. Connect clutch pedal position interlock switch connector
(2).
6. Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to the
dash panel into the lower dash panel flange.
7. Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to the
dash panel onto the upper dash panel stud.
8. Raise vehicle.
9. Install slave cylinder (2) and verify cylinder rod is
properly seated in release lever.
10. Install and tighten slave cylinder nuts (1) to 23
N•m (17 ft. lbs.).
11. If new clutch linkage is being installed, connect
the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder.
CAUTION: Once the clutch hydraulic line is connected
to the slave cylinder, it should never be
disconnected.
12. Install firewall bracket for resevoir using supplied hardware
13. Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.


BEARING CLUTCH RELEASE - SRT-10
REMOVAL
NOTE: The bearing and slave cylinder are serviced
together as an assembly. Do not attempt to separate
the bearing from the slave cylinder.
1. With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on hoist.
2. Disconnect hydraulic line from hydraulic slave cylinder
with Line Disconnect Tool 6638/6638A.
3. Remove transmission.
4. Remove slave cylinder (1) bolts and remove
cylinder
INSTALLATION
1. Install slave cylinder (1) onto transmission (3) and
tighten bolts to 22 N•m (200 in. lbs.). Install shim(s) here between slave cylinder body and transmission case
2. Install transmission assembly.
3. Connect hydraulic line to slave cylinder.
4. Bleed the system.

 

[Ironhead]

LINKAGE - SRT-10
REMOVAL
1. Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs on clutch housing.
CAUTION: The hydraulic linkage has a quick disconnect
at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
never be disconnected or tampered with. Once the
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should never be disconnected.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove heat shield over hydraulic line.
4. Remove slave cylinder (2) from clutch housing.
5. Remove plastic clip securing the hydraulic line to
the dash panel from the lower dash panel flange.
6. Remove plastic clip securing hydraulic line to the
dash panel from the upper dash panel stud.
7. Lower vehicle.
8. Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch connector
(2).
9. Remove clutch master cylinder rod pin (3).
10. Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight. This will avoid spillage during removal.
11. Remove clutch master cylinder nuts holding the to
the dash panel.
12. Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and connecting
lines from vehicle.

INSTALLATION
1. Position cylinders and connecting line in vehicle
engine compartment. Position clutch hydraulic line
against the dash panel and behind all engine
hoses and wiring.
2. Apply a light coating of grease to the inside diameter
of the master cylinder push rod 93) eye.
3. Install clutch master cylinder (1) on dash panel and
tighten clutch master cylinder nuts to 28 N•m (21 ft.
lbs.). Install shim here between firewall and factory bracket
4. Install clutch master cylinder push rod pin.
5. Connect clutch pedal position interlock switch connector
(2).
6. Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to the
dash panel into the lower dash panel flange.
7. Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to the
dash panel onto the upper dash panel stud.
8. Raise vehicle.
9. Install slave cylinder (2) and verify cylinder rod is
properly seated in release lever.
10. Install and tighten slave cylinder nuts (1) to 23
N•m (17 ft. lbs.).
11. If new clutch linkage is being installed, connect
the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder.
CAUTION: Once the clutch hydraulic line is connected
to the slave cylinder, it should never be
disconnected.
12. Install firewall bracket for resevoir using supplied hardware
13. Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.


BEARING CLUTCH RELEASE - SRT-10
REMOVAL
NOTE: The bearing and slave cylinder are serviced
together as an assembly. Do not attempt to separate
the bearing from the slave cylinder.
1. With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on hoist.
2. Disconnect hydraulic line from hydraulic slave cylinder
with Line Disconnect Tool 6638/6638A.
3. Remove transmission.
4. Remove slave cylinder (1) bolts and remove
cylinder
INSTALLATION
1. Install slave cylinder (1) onto transmission (3) and
tighten bolts to 22 N•m (200 in. lbs.). Install shim(s) here between slave cylinder body and transmission case
2. Install transmission assembly.
3. Connect hydraulic line to slave cylinder.
4. Bleed the system.

what no pictures:aetsch:

 

[Tooloe]

kinda what i wasthinking lol thanks man that should make it 100x easier!

 

[VIPER]

good luck - im doing the same thing in a few mths - when the snow melts

 

[jsandlin]

not too bad. just mount the stainless steel bracket near the old master cylinder location. May have to drill out the holes on the bracket (mine didnt fit). The hose clamp deal replaces the tie wrap under the truck from the old hydraulic line. Everything else is pretty plug and play (only two bolts on the slave cylinder and the quick disconnect hydraulic lines help out). The master is already bled and ready.

 

[Tooloe]

well got everything apart.. an my fly wheel is toast..going to get it resurfaced tomorrow..... the adapter for the master didn't fit the bolts were to short with the adapter so i just left it out will this hurt anyting?

 

[FerrariTruck]

well got everything apart.. an my fly wheel is toast..going to get it resurfaced tomorrow..... the adapter for the master didn't fit the bolts were to short with the adapter so i just left it out will this hurt anyting?

yes. the pedal will sit real high with without adapter. Justing provides you with different nuts that you use that will be able to go on the screws for the master base

 

[jsandlin]

it should fit. It looks like it wouldnt but they will go on. Mine did anyway.

 

[Dom426]

well got everything apart.. an my fly wheel is toast..going to get it resurfaced tomorrow..... the adapter for the master didn't fit the bolts were to short with the adapter so i just left it out will this hurt anyting?

yeah you need the shim behind the slave cylinder

 

[Tooloe]

got everything buttoned up.... i should have done this mod way sooner! the truck doesn't even feel like a truck anymore!