Epxoy Floor Painting

SHU-DOG

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Just Moved to Reno NV from Southrn Calfornia
OK for those of you that have done some sort of garage floor epoxy coating.

Looking at filling some large cracks then epoxy coating the shop floor.

Looking to do it in some sort of color. Do not want the color flakes added. Just a simple solid color for ease of cleanup.

What have you used?
What works best for the dollar?
What works best period?

Thanks

SHU
 
SHU-DOG said:
OK for those of you that have done some sort of garage floor epoxy coating.

Looking at filling some large cracks then epoxy coating the shop floor.

Looking to do it in some sort of color. Do not want the color flakes added. Just a simple solid color for ease of cleanup.

What have you used?
What works best for the dollar?
What works best period?

Thanks

SHU


Bridging filler or elastomeric patching compound, install 2 part epoxy dont sprinkle:D

Make sure you acid etch well for prep

thewelshm
 
Elastomeric for patching. If you are in a midsize or greater city find a commercial supplier. There are some commercial sealers/topcoats I'd highly recommend to go over the epoxy once it cures. Make sure it has UV protection otherwise it will yellow and peel.

For off the shelf Sherwin Williams/Frazzee Paints/Dunn Edwards and the like are not too bad. I've used UCoat It it offered decent results as well. As with any paint prep is everything. Stay far away from the Home Depot and other like retailers for epoxy coatings.

I'm moving next month and will go with a concrete stain versus Epoxy this time. I'm tough on floors and stained concrete is super easy to maintain. My previous home I did stained concrete throughout the first floor rather than tile or other hard surface.
 
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One thing I'm going to do when I move back into my house is re-use the epoxy stuff you can buy from Home Depot, then put some kind of "clear coat" type stuff on top of it. When I would park my Z06 in the garage with warm Nitto NT-01's, the tires would melt the epoxy and pull it up when I backed out the next time. Oh, and I did acid etch the floor before hand.
 
Yeah ive looked into the restoleum and U Coat It. Only problem i see is the time to cure. I was hopeing to have it done in a weekend. Looks like it needs about 5 days to fully cure. DOOOHHHHH

So gottah contact some industrial coating guys.

Waiting for our PPG rep to come in today to see what is available.

Thanks for the info guys.

SHU
 
SHU-DOG said:
Yeah ive looked into the restoleum and U Coat It. Only problem i see is the time to cure. I was hopeing to have it done in a weekend. Looks like it needs about 5 days to fully cure. DOOOHHHHH

So gottah contact some industrial coating guys.

Waiting for our PPG rep to come in today to see what is available.

Thanks for the info guys.

SHU

All two part epoxy's need time to fully cure. Might be dry to the touch in a couple hours but there's a chemical 'cross linking' process thats taking place and needs time. Last thing you want to do is rush that....
 
I used the Rustoleum Professional (used to be Industrial) on my floor 7 years ago. It is a solvent based epoxy, which is more durable. However, it requires a lot more prep and you will need some sort of respirator while putting it down. And yes, it does take 4 days to cure fully before driving on it. You can walk on it after 24 hours.

I recoated my floor two years ago because of wear. The original coat never pealed up and was amazingly tough. I applied the flakes and clear coat this time. Prep was much less for the recoat. I just had to thoroughly clean/degrease and scuff the surface with some 100 grit.

My garage is not a show room. It gets used regularly on car and other projects, so it is used to seeing a jack, jack stands, and saw horses. A quick run over with the shop vac and a mop and it looks new again. I have been very happy with the Rustoleum Professional product. I can't speak to the water based one.

-Muzzy
 

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