Exaust Help

[tinygiants]

OK, I admit I am a non automotive type. I love my truck, and am normally a DIY type guy. However I know nothing about performance.

I am on the wait list for a ROE SC. I understand a free flow exaust is reccomended. With all the different pieces parts, it is hard for a newbie to know what is needed.

Long Tube Headers, short tube headers? What is the difference? Mopar, belanger, bassani, or something else?

Is th mid pipe part of any given kit? Or is it seperate?

I see all the CAT back systems listed here and there. Is that all preference? Will one work with another? IE mopar heders and magnaflow cat back.

I guess I am looking for header to exaust tip reccomendation and why it works together. My goal is to see my local shop and procure the parts for the Holiday season.

VTCOA, teach me something.
Dale

 

[FlyingLow]

Dale are you having a local shop put on the Roe S/C?

 

[tinygiants]

I am undecided. From talking to them, they made it sound like any fool could install it. With that in mind I have a few friends that are car guys, so I may go to there shops and buy the pizza.

 

[FlyingLow]

OK, I admit I am a non automotive type. I love my truck, and am normally a DIY type guy. However I know nothing about performance.

I am on the wait list for a ROE SC. I understand a free flow exaust is reccomended. With all the different pieces parts, it is hard for a newbie to know what is needed.

Long Tube Headers, short tube headers? What is the difference? Mopar, belanger, bassani, or something else?

Is th mid pipe part of any given kit? Or is it seperate?

I see all the CAT back systems listed here and there. Is that all preference? Will one work with another? IE mopar heders and magnaflow cat back.

I guess I am looking for header to exaust tip reccomendation and why it works together. My goal is to see my local shop and procure the parts for the Holiday season.

VTCOA, teach me something.
Dale

1. Exhaust- Get what you like the best for sound. A lot really like the Magnaflow. I had Borla on mine and loved it. The power in the exhaust is through losing the cats. All 4 if you can swing it.

2. Headers - I would say go with Long Tubes. I liked the Bellengers, but they are pricey. The mo-pars have shown good performance but last I heard they are wrapped and I didn't like the way the looked under the hood. Bassani has some sweet looking shorties that add some nice bling under the hood.

I think they can all work together. First I would call Roe and make sure that the header you want to get will work with the Roe Twin Screw. Everything should line up.

Smoke

 

[FlyingLow]

I am undecided. From talking to them, they made it sound like any fool could install it. With that in mind I have a few friends that are car guys, so I may go to there shops and buy the pizza.

Bellangers are supposed to be a real easy great fit. Same for the magnaflow.

 

[Silverback]

With a S/C you really want to go with long tube and even then preferably equal length headers. You will be forcing more air/fuel into the cylinder and you will benefit greatly by the scavenging effect that the equal length headers will provide.

 

[mmmmtorque]

Believe the boys already answered most of your questions...

If you go with Belanger's or Mopar LT's (actually any header) then you do need purchase the mids seperately. As mentioned, there are considerable gains in replacing the mids. Just keep in mind that if you dont install HF cats that you will need to purchase O2 sims to keep from getting a CEL. You should run HF cats anyway unless your state does not perform physical vehicle inspections.

Magnaflow is the favorite catback around here but B&B has a nice set up as well.

 

[ViperTruck2933]

IF you go with Belangers you can get Belanger mid pipes as well. They make them in 3" and you can get high flow cats or no cats.

I have Belanger long tube headers and Belanger mids with the high flows and a Magnaflow catback. I love the way it sounds. I did the whole install by myself in my garage. I have a small welder that I used to weld up the mids to the catback but you could also use the cover clamps that come with the mids. You could also do the install yourself and then take the truck to a muffler shop and have the joints welded.

The welding is not necessary, as both kits come with clamps. I just personally prefer them welded.

Good luck. :rock:

 

[Silverback]

One word of caution regarding CATS. It's a federal requirement and a federal violation for altering them. State does not mater if they inspect or not. If you are caught you are screwed big time.

I would be sure to have High Flow CATS in place to be safe.

 

[tinygiants]

How do I know if a long tube is equal length? Are the Belanger or Mopar? From my untrained eye, I would say no. Would the equal length ones be the ones looking like pretzels?

Thanks for the info everyone.

Enjoy the Ride,
Dale

 

[FlyingLow]

How do I know if a long tube is equal length? Are the Belanger or Mopar? From my untrained eye, I would say no. Would the equal length ones be the ones looking like pretzels?

Thanks for the info everyone.

Enjoy the Ride,
Dale

I think the Bells are equal length. I don't know about the mopars. Boomer sells mopar headers, so ask him.

 

[ViperTruck2933]

The Belangers come ceramic coated. After having ceramic coated I woudl NEVER buy another set of any kind that are not coated. It is money well spent. Fit, finish and performance are excellent with Belangers....they're just gonna cost ya.

There is nothing wrong with the Mopar headers, if those are the ones that you want. But my advice would be to go have them coated before you put them on.

Under hood temps are dramatically reduced with the ceramic coating and they'll last forever.:rock:

 

[FlyingLow]

The Belangers come ceramic coated. After having ceramic coated I woudl NEVER buy another set of any kind that are not coated. It is money well spent. Fit, finish and performance are excellent with Belangers....they're just gonna cost ya.

There is nothing wrong with the Mopar headers, if those are the ones that you want. But my advice would be to go have them coated before you put them on.

Under hood temps are dramatically reduced with the ceramic coating and they'll last forever.:rock:

That is the main reason I ruled out mopar headers. I just didn't like the way the tape looked as opposed to the coating. I have only heard good things about the bellangers.

 

[tinygiants]

I went to my local muffler shop. They will not delete any of the cats. They say that since my truck comes with 4 it has to keep 4. They offered to delete the muffler though. They also hemmed and hawed about how headers always leak.

I am thinking I need to find a new shop.

How hard was it to get in to the headers? Can it be done by the average guy?

Thanks,
Dale

 

[Silverback]

I went to my local muffler shop. They will not delete any of the cats. They say that since my truck comes with 4 it has to keep 4. They offered to delete the muffler though. They also hemmed and hawed about how headers always leak.

I am thinking I need to find a new shop.

How hard was it to get in to the headers? Can it be done by the average guy?

Thanks,
Dale

A lot of the members on here with headers have done it themselves. All it takes is time and lots of beer.

 

[Silverback]

Just noticed that you also live in the Festering Shithole known as Western Washington. There is a place in Auburn called Stans Headers. They can do this for you.

 

[ViperTruck2933]

Headers are an easy install if you take off the front wheels and remove the wheel well liners (only takes about 5 minutes). Do not try to install headers from under the truck or from the engine compartment. You will add several hours and busted knuckles.

If you replace the mid pipes when you do the headers it's even easier.:rock:

 

[tinygiants]

Thanks for the replies. I will look at taking off my wheels and wheel well liners. Then I'll check fit my tools.

Do the stock headers use a gasket? Or are they a metal to metal fit?

New headers use a gasket though, right?

What about leaks? The shop complained that headers are steel and prone to leaks. While the stock headers are cast and do a good job of not leaking, Any truth?

Thanks for the info on the shop.

Thanks
Dale

 

[ViperTruck2933]

Thanks for the replies. I will look at taking off my wheels and wheel well liners. Then I'll check fit my tools.

Do the stock headers use a gasket? Or are they a metal to metal fit?

New headers use a gasket though, right?

What about leaks? The shop complained that headers are steel and prone to leaks. While the stock headers are cast and do a good job of not leaking, Any truth?

Thanks for the info on the shop.

Thanks
Dale

Go to the dealership and get a set of OEM exhaust manifold gaskets. THey are metal and work WAY better than the crap that comes with the headers.
I have installed 3 sets of headers on different trucks in the last couple of years and NOT ONE of them has leaked. You just need to retorque the header bolts after about 500 miles of driving.

Also get some O2 safe RTV Hi Temp sealant (I use copper) for the Header to exhaust pipe flange and some anti seize compound for all exhaust bolts.

Have fun!

 

[mmmmtorque]

Go to the dealership and get a set of OEM exhaust manifold gaskets. THey are metal and work WAY better than the crap that comes with the headers.
I have installed 3 sets of headers on different trucks in the last couple of years and NOT ONE of them has leaked. You just need to retorque the header bolts after about 500 miles of driving.

Also get some O2 safe RTV Hi Temp sealant (I use copper) for the Header to exhaust pipe flange and some anti seize compound for all exhaust bolts.

Have fun!

:dito: