Kevan
Full Access Member
The truck is back together and runs great!
Thanks to Dragon for the parts hookup. Shipping was dead-on, and the parts were correct.
For grins (and because I saw it on the shelf in the garage), I finished off the last of the can of high-temp BBQ paint on the interim exhaust manifolds. I thought, "Well, if it burns/flakes off, it'll only be there for a couple of weeks". After a quick jaunt this morning....it's still on there! It's rated to 1200F, but I didn't think it'd last 10 min. on the truck. I'll update as time goes on and take post-removal pics.
Lining up the gaskets, while holding a 50 lb. manifold with one hand, sitting on a concrete floor, inside a wheel well is NOT a one-person job. LOL If you can, get a buddy. It would have been so much easier even with one extra hand. The gaskets have 'catch' holes on the lower left, lower right and lower center holes. You can do those screws first to keep the gasket in place on the manifold while you try to line up the others.
The hardest part was lining up the manifold bolts to avoid cross threading. Take your time with this and keep pressure on the manifold (holding it as flat as possible onto the block). Do the bolts with the most "hole play" first, then shift the manifold as necessary to do the 'no hole play' bolts.
Torque exhaust manifold bolts to 220 in.-lbs. (that's INCH-pounds). I did a cross tightening pattern as well.
Add the upper heat shield and torque it's (3) nuts to 50 in.-lbs (that's INCH-pounds). There's no torque spec for the lower heat shield bolts. I do them "damn tight".
Now you can go and re-attach the rest of the exhaust at the collector end. A couple of these are tough to get to. The air wrench really helped.
When assembling, I do a little bit on each of the (3) bolts, going around until they all get nice and snug. Then I'll torque them down (25 ft.-lbs. each).
Once everything has been double-checked (and no left over screws...LOL), the wheel well cover goes back in place (torque to 44 in-lbs. each).
Re-attach the wheel. Torque the lug nuts to spec (90-110 ft-lbs.).
I finished one side, then did the other. Your method may vary.
Pics of the adventure can be found here:
http://www.tremol-no.com/images/woodblock/srt-10/manifold/
I'll do a more complete and organized version once the DIY section is up and running.
I get to do this again when the original manifolds come back.
Thanks to Dragon for the parts hookup. Shipping was dead-on, and the parts were correct.
For grins (and because I saw it on the shelf in the garage), I finished off the last of the can of high-temp BBQ paint on the interim exhaust manifolds. I thought, "Well, if it burns/flakes off, it'll only be there for a couple of weeks". After a quick jaunt this morning....it's still on there! It's rated to 1200F, but I didn't think it'd last 10 min. on the truck. I'll update as time goes on and take post-removal pics.
Lining up the gaskets, while holding a 50 lb. manifold with one hand, sitting on a concrete floor, inside a wheel well is NOT a one-person job. LOL If you can, get a buddy. It would have been so much easier even with one extra hand. The gaskets have 'catch' holes on the lower left, lower right and lower center holes. You can do those screws first to keep the gasket in place on the manifold while you try to line up the others.
The hardest part was lining up the manifold bolts to avoid cross threading. Take your time with this and keep pressure on the manifold (holding it as flat as possible onto the block). Do the bolts with the most "hole play" first, then shift the manifold as necessary to do the 'no hole play' bolts.
Torque exhaust manifold bolts to 220 in.-lbs. (that's INCH-pounds). I did a cross tightening pattern as well.
Add the upper heat shield and torque it's (3) nuts to 50 in.-lbs (that's INCH-pounds). There's no torque spec for the lower heat shield bolts. I do them "damn tight".
Now you can go and re-attach the rest of the exhaust at the collector end. A couple of these are tough to get to. The air wrench really helped.
When assembling, I do a little bit on each of the (3) bolts, going around until they all get nice and snug. Then I'll torque them down (25 ft.-lbs. each).
Once everything has been double-checked (and no left over screws...LOL), the wheel well cover goes back in place (torque to 44 in-lbs. each).
Re-attach the wheel. Torque the lug nuts to spec (90-110 ft-lbs.).
I finished one side, then did the other. Your method may vary.
Pics of the adventure can be found here:
http://www.tremol-no.com/images/woodblock/srt-10/manifold/
I'll do a more complete and organized version once the DIY section is up and running.
I get to do this again when the original manifolds come back.
