forged internal questions?

GotRidOfTheHemiForThis

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With my current setup im very happy and dont want anymore hp. I am curious about forging only the need to do items that can fail due to cheapness in parts.

Then lets get to it.
1. pistons
2. puch rods

is that enough of a change to make the motor strong enough for 800 motor hp and 7-750 wheel hp?
 
Do yourself a favor-

Manley Forged Connecting Rods

Forged CP Pistons.....
 
Mike here is my list...the objective was to make the engine live long at its current hp. If I want to boost the hp the smaller supercharger pulley is my first option with very little risk:


Diamond Pistons, Pins Rings w/coated deck & skirts
Oliver Rods
Main bearings / Rod bearings coated
Chrome Moly Pushrods
Cylinder Hone w/plates
Line Hone
Deck Block
Nitride Crankshaft
Polished and ground crankshaft
Fully balanced Rotating Assembly
Block machined for greater oil feed galleys
Full gasket replacement
Added one-piece pressure relief valve

IMHO this is a minimum build to go forged...there are four or five other things to do if you want to optimize the build for hp...but in my mind this is the minimal you should do internally to gain the longevity that I believe you and I both are looking for from our forced induction engines. The brands are really a matter of personal choice...and in my mind that is the aegis of the builder you choose.
 
Prof said:
Mike here is my list...the objective was to make the engine live long at its current hp. If I want to boost the hp the smaller supercharger pulley is my first option with very little risk:


Diamond Pistons, Pins Rings w/coated deck & skirts
Oliver Rods
Main bearings / Rod bearings coated
Chrome Moly Pushrods
Cylinder Hone w/plates
Line Hone
Deck Block
Nitride Crankshaft
Polished and ground crankshaft
Fully balanced Rotating Assembly
Block machined for greater oil feed galleys
Full gasket replacement
Added one-piece pressure relief valve

IMHO this is a minimum build to go forged...there are four or five other things to do if you want to optimize the build for hp...but in my mind this is the minimal you should do internally to gain the longevity that I believe you and I both are looking for from our forced induction engines. The brands are really a matter of personal choice...and in my mind that is the aegis of the builder you choose.
do you have a cost for what you're having done ?
 
Prof do you have a part number for the Oliver Rods? I was told they don't have em for the V-10's? Perhaps I was misinformed....
 
Just shy of $11K, with labor.

I will check with the builder on the part number of the Oliver rods. I understand they are hard to get...but some have some stocked away...
 
hey roy,
got the smaller pulley already! lol
No i was just looking into this on a budget (if thats even possible)
Currently im having a little power loss, had it on a dyno on sunday and well ran lower hp at 623 and high tq at around 800 may need a tune done to her also. But as of about an hour ago i was having a new throttle cable installed and dodge and just dented my bumper putting it on a lift and im out the truck for a few days while they send it to the body shop. Aint Life Grand !
Oh and they gave me a replacement driver,.......a 4 cylinder avenger, i think im gonna take that to the car show this week lol.

Have you got yours back yet? And i saw IL ron sunday at the dodge of antioch car show, suprised you werent there? Additionally I had the most HP on the dyno all day! Yet i was not given the award due to the other cars couldnt even enter my playin field HA!
 
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Should be back next week.

I really think the list I provided to you is bare bones. There are a lot of things that could be done while it is apart and I have done a few of those things...upgrade the valves, keepers, springs, etc. but most of what I have listed is the basic approach. I just think that once you pull it apart the things I have listed must be done so that you are not taking the chance of some small issue undoing the work that was done. There is very little on the list that any builder would not do when you go forged.

It is a matter of just being practical. The issue is time and effort...if the crank is dropped, why would you not go to the extra effort to have it trued and the same with the heads...

I guess the analogy would be changing the batteries in your you mouse and only doing one...

I was a captive this weekend...entertaining guests and getting ready to entertain guests...you see we have this Korean yard boy that also does windows and he, is me! I have not heard from IL Ron in months!
 

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