Is it possible to install these without pulling the motor? What rods and pistons are available for our trucks? Recommendations?
Forged Pistons & Rods
- Thread starter blackviper
- Start date
ViperTruck2933
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Yes it is possible. You just have to remove the spot welds on the crossmember and pull the crossmember out.
Forged pistons will cost you $1000 or more. Forged rods will cost you $2000 or more. It ain't cheap.
Forged pistons will cost you $1000 or more. Forged rods will cost you $2000 or more. It ain't cheap.
Is there an advantage to just doing the forged pistons w/o the rods?....say with an FI engine putting 700hp to the wheels?...
Any manufacturer in particular and who carries them? Can anybody post general or specific instructions on how to do this?
I would seriously entertain the idea of having this done......
This sounds (to me) like a great piece of insurance for our engines....
D
This sounds (to me) like a great piece of insurance for our engines....
D
When my original motor blew up I found an '03 motor out of a Viper (owner of Underground Racing). From what I was told...of the GenIII motors from '03-'06 the '03s had the strongest rods. I upgraded the pistons (Diamond) while the "new to me" motor was still out of the truck and kept the rods that came with the motor.
I guess if you were gonna do the pistons might as well upgrade the rods while you are in there. Pistons are gonna run 1000-1500 bucks for a set of 10 (Diamond) with the price varying depending on what kind of mods you to the motor. Since I was running a Paxton I wanted some insurance that the pistons would hold up...which they did.
If you let us know what kind of future mods you want to do we may be better able to lead you in the right direction of rods and pistons.
I guess if you were gonna do the pistons might as well upgrade the rods while you are in there. Pistons are gonna run 1000-1500 bucks for a set of 10 (Diamond) with the price varying depending on what kind of mods you to the motor. Since I was running a Paxton I wanted some insurance that the pistons would hold up...which they did.
If you let us know what kind of future mods you want to do we may be better able to lead you in the right direction of rods and pistons.
I will be adding ported heads and a smaller pulley for the S/C. Should be boosting nine to ten pounds when all is said and done.
blackviper said:
I was running the stock Paxton 8psi + water/meth which added another 35 rwhp or so which I guess would equal another pound or two of boost.
I would STRONGLY recommend upgrading the pistons, with the boost you're gonna add trouble is staring at you in the face if you dont! Dont become a member of the blown motor club, there's enough of us in it as it stands
nycstev
Full Access Member
TNVIPER said:
Hmm... forged pistons with stock rods and FI and maybe some NOS? Check out this thread . Rod failure.http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14893&page=5
Stock pistons and rods with 6 PSI boost seems to work for every one here.
Forged pistons are not needed unless your boosting higher or addingNOS but you need forged rods as well.
carillo makes drop in rods pretty reasonable, and diamond or JE makes piston,
contact Notahemi for details
contact Notahemi for details
Thanks Stinker.
1qksrt
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I highly recommend pulling the engine to do pistons/rods...this way,you can be sure all measurements are taken accurately.(ring gaps,bearing clearance,etc.).You can also go with srt8 rods/pistons,but will have to bore the block 2mm to properly fit the pistons.
nycstev
Full Access Member
Yea I think so too. Doesn't the block get full of shavings from honing? This debris will wind up in the oil and have catastrophic results.1qksrt said:
1qksrt
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nycstev said:
No,After boring/honing,the block gets a thorough wash out,and I always rewash and clean out oil passages prior to assembly!
nycstev
Full Access Member
Thats my point. Thats what I always have done in the past. Is it possible people are honing blocks in the vehicle and getting oil contamination from shavings resulting in some failures?:dontknow: :dontknow:1qksrt said:No,After boring/honing,the block gets a thorough wash out,and I always rewash and clean out oil passages prior to assembly!
I'm just looking for alternate ways to get this done. Thanks for the feedback. Any other suggestions? Is there a preference on manufacturers for pistons and rods? I really don't want to pull the engine. It seems we are capped at 700hp RWHP with FI based on another post unless we use the bottle. Is this correct? If so, is there a need for the rods or just do the pistons? I don't want to make this a massive project.
Bone said:
cheaper set up than the oliver deal, ya gotta go with special pistons, special rods, and grind the crank , with the carillos from what I heard they are drop in
you'll have to pm not a hemi, he is the one that told me about the carillos, or you cant contact them straight forward and ask them:dontknow:
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