Front crank seal

[Poclitar]

Had my truck at the shop last fall before i put it into storage and they said the front crank seal is leaking a bit. Just wondering how hard of a job is it to do? And can it be done with normal hand tools in my driveway come spring time?
Thanks

 

[yellowfever#154]

Yes it's a basic seal replacement. Good time to pin the harmonic balancer while you are there.

 

[Slitherbeast]

what year is your truck? on the 04, the dampner bolt is known to backoff which can create a front seal leak as the balancer wobbles. Simply try to re-torque that center bolt first.

 

[Poclitar]

what year is your truck? on the 04, the dampner bolt is known to backoff which can create a front seal leak as the balancer wobbles. Simply try to re-torque that center bolt first.

its a 04, ill have to try that in the spring. Do you happen to know the torque spec for that bolt?

 

[Khamuz]

Yes it's a basic seal replacement. Good time to pin the harmonic balancer while you are there.

Pin the harmonic balancer, what is that? Reason I ask is I am about to install an UD pulley and plan on replacing my front seal. Want to do as much as possible while I am down there...

 

[yellowfever#154]

Pinning the balancer does exactly what it says. You physically pin the balancer to the crankshaft. Our balances were not keyed to the crank so when the bolt comes loose as described above it will destroy the crankshaft. If your right there doing the seal, I would pin it.

Hit up Justin @ JMB Performance, I'm sure he can get you a pinning kit

 

[CaptnCrash]

its a 04, ill have to try that in the spring. Do you happen to know the torque spec for that bolt?

On a 2004 the torque for the balancer bolt is 130 ft lbs [ref FSM 9-322] ... BUT if it is loose you need to remove it, clean everything, use copious amounts of locktite and then install and torque.

There was a tech bulletin on this I don't recall the number. They really should have issued a recall but never did.

The pulley to balancer bolts are 200 IN LBS

Failure to use locktite will result in the bolt backing off again.

And using a pin kit while you're in there is a pretty good idea.

--CC

 

[Poclitar]

Ok thanks for the info guys ill get to er in the spring. Is there room to get at the balancer without taking the fan and the rad out?

 

[yellowfever#154]

According to the workshop manual it is possible, but I imagine it's much easier with it removed.

 

[CaptnCrash]

Ok thanks for the info guys ill get to er in the spring. Is there room to get at the balancer without taking the fan and the rad out?

You will probably have to pull the radiator and push / tilt the condenser out of the way in order to get a damper puller in there to get the damper out of the way to replace the seal.

Just tightening / removing and/or applying locktite to the damper bolt can be done by removing the belt and the pulley.

As it's all done from the bottom I really recommend a lift as opposed to ramps or jack stands. A drive on is better because then you can use 6th gear, the parking brake, and a wheel chock to lock the drive line so you can get the needed torque.

--CC

 

[Khamuz]

My truck is a 2006, and like I said I am planning on installing a jst under drive pulley, would I still need this pin kit?

 

[Slitherbeast]

If you are gonna drive a supercharger then pin it. If not leave it not pinned.