garage door

[Ironhead]

anyone replace a complete garage door lately ,,tracks door and opener ,,wonder what the average cost is ,,just spent 4 hours getting my cable back on the reels ,and then retightning the springs ,,what a pain in the keester

 

[wesalbert]

Single or Double?

 

[Ironhead]

double

 

[wesalbert]

No

 

[Ironhead]

No

you suck :elefant:

 

[ViperJeff]

Get ahold of Big Dave (SilverSRT10) he does them for a living

 

[REPOMAN1]

I just did a single it was 1100 no insulation and now windows. Aluminum, new tracks, rails, everything 8ft door

 

[viperhauler]

7x18 insulated, full row glass, track, install $1300

course....i got mine for my house 7x18 insulated no glas for $400...and paid one of the guys off the clock $150

 

[04viperram]

Shit i'm having troubles with mine too! Sometimes it works great other I have to hold the button down til it closes. I've checked the lasers and connections and everything seems fine. I'm bout ready to hire someone to fix it.

 

[viperhauler]

i'm sure dave could help ya out over the phone if he has a second...at least to make sure you've done everything troubleshooting wise before the "man" comes

 

[viperhauler]

i'm sure dave could help ya out over the phone if he has a second...at least to make sure you've done everything troubleshooting wise before the "man" comes

 

[SilvrSRT10]

You rang????? 04Viperram.......it's in your sensor system somewhere. Make sure they are pointed at one another. There are little lights on them to indicate that they see one another. Make sure they are tight. Wiggle them a little and see if the indicator lights flicker. If so re-align so that a slight wiggle doesn't cause the indicator light to go out.
One of the sensors is the "sender" and the other is the "receiver". Sometimes they do go bad. But if it's an intermittent thing it's most likely alignment or a bad wire. Wiggle the wire to see if it causes the indicator light to change. If you have to hold the wall button to make the door come down is an override to the safety beam system. Also what brand opener is it?

 

[SilvrSRT10]

James....what caused the cables to come off the drums?

 

[Ironhead]

James....what caused the cables to come off the drums?

drums are worn down ,,the cable when door goes up does not wrap straight it overlaps each other all the time ,,then one side gets stuck one side gets loose then door droops on one side,,plus opener went out a couple weeks ago ,most likely cause it was real tight ,,it works but slips on worn gear trying to go up ,,,goes down ok when cable is not screwing up

 

[SilvrSRT10]

drums are worn down ,,the cable when door goes up does not wrap straight it overlaps each other all the time ,,then one side gets stuck one side gets loose then door droops on one side

I could send you a new set of drums. But it means unwinding the springs to replace them. Might as well replace the end bearings while your at it. Check to see if the cables are frayed. If I were to go out and do it, it would be a $60 service call plus parts. Probably about $40 in parts. So for $100 bucks that would be fixed. It could also be that the door isn't going up level causing one cable to go slack and come off the drum.

You sure you have enough tension on the springs? If they are running out of tension, the cables can get slack and the motor might still be able to lift the door to fully open throwing the cables. Disconnect the door from the motor and raise it half way. If it stays there it sounds like it pretty well balanced. If it slams to the floor then you need more tension on the springs. For a 7' tall door you'll need 7.5 turns on the spring. That's 7.5 full turns. Not quarter turns. About 8.5 on a 8" tall door. Things change from there on up as drum sizes change etc.

Disclaimer: If you don't have the right tools to wind the springs then hire someone. It's a lot cheaper than a hospital stay. Garage doors have killed people. There is a lot more tension on the lift system than people think. Use this advice at your own risk.

 

[Ironhead]

yes i had to put more tension on springs thats the only way it will stay on track now ,,i got use to winding the springs at last job ,,the big commercial doors use to get hit by forklifts a few time per year ,,nice work out too

 

[04viperram]

It is a chamberlain liftmaster professional 1/2 hp. I checked the lasers and they are lined up. Is there a way to just bypass them?

 

[Django]

So nice to have a pro on the board... And one'a the best guys here if you ask me.

The garage door industry is rife with con artists.

Dave will be your savior on this one....

Glad we can keep it in the family.

I've been hornswaggled in the past, but I have a good company now....

EG

 

[SilvrSRT10]

It is a chamberlain liftmaster professional 1/2 hp. I checked the lasers and they are lined up. Is there a way to just bypass them?

No...there's really no way to bypass the sensors completely. At least not that I know of. I really haven't pursued it because if I tried it with a customer and something happened......well, my ass would be grass and they'd be the mower.

You could take the sensors and mount them up by the motor itself. Most motors are suspended from the ceiling with angle iron. Just mount the sensors pointing at one another up there and shorten the wires and plug them into the black & white wire clamps. If you have small children or pets I don't recommend this. The motor does have a pressure sensitivity setting to it that should reverse if it comes in contact with something. But the sensors are your first defense. If you move the sensors away from the door opening, make sure the pressure reverse is functioning properly. Test it by catching the door with your arm to see if it will reverse. If it doesn't, there's a dial on the back side of the motor that needs to be adjusted. There's an up and down pressure adjustments.

Something just came to mind. Some older models have plug in's at the sensor itself. The terminals get corroded and lose contact. If this is how your system is set up, unplug the little plug, spray both sides with WD40 and work the plug on and off until the terminals are clean. Should get a good strong indicator light. Do that to both sides (sender & receiver). Sometimes they are beyond hope and will need replacing. You can find them online pretty reasonable. Simple repair only 2 wires. White with black stripe and solid white. Just keep that consistent all the way back to the motor and your good.

Thanks for the kind words Tim. I'm not a real religious guy but I do believe in treating others the way I'd like to be treated. (Golden Rule)

When I go out to troubleshoot a problem for a customer, I always try to fix it at the least cost to them. There is a plastic gear in most LiftMaster motors that I will replace for a customer that will keep them going for another 15 years. A lot of door company's will tell the customer the motor is shot and replace the whole thing to the tune of $400. I just couldn't sleep taking advantage of people like that.

 

[04viperram]

I sure appreciate that man! I'll give that a shot and let ya know how that works. Thanks again!