Getting Roe Racing head build,What else should I do?under drive pully,throttle body?

[Ventura SRT-10]

I agree, coils and wires are a waste, the stock coils and wires are pretty good!! Do your homework on plug wires before you change your stock ones out!!!

had a bad wire so just replaced the set.

 

[Ventura SRT-10]

Do a cam. You will double the power increase you are going to get by doing ported heads only. You don't need to buy a Roe cam. There are other great cam grinds that will work well and cost less.

No the push rods do not require taking the front of the motor apart.

Sean could probably send a Tune, but I would still suggest going to a dyno to verify. I would budget at least $400 or so for a tune (including dyno strap down).

Lifters are not required but most (including Sean) recommend changing them. Lifters and cams wear to one another. Stock lifters are also "fast bleed" and are not optimal for performance.

Ok guy's I appreciate everyone's advice, I think Im going to do the cam, push rod's and lifter's. Roe has push rods 3/8 for $235 or 5/16 for $182 are the 3/8 better and is there equal quality out there for cheaper? Roe also has a 710 camshaft for $699. what would be a brand with similar quality for cheaper? Then the Mopar high performance roller lifters are $590. are there other good lifters for lower price?

 

[yellowfever#154]

From the service manual : "When camshaft is replaced, all of the tappets
must be replaced"

2005 service manual 9-2503 or pg 5595 if you're using adobe reader

I disagree, if the lifters are in good shape reuse them.

 

[caveman]

From the service manual : "When camshaft is replaced, all of the tappets
must be replaced"

2005 service manual 9-2503 or pg 5595 if you're using adobe reader

Don't confuse the issue by quoting printed facts!

The idea that the lifters need to be replaced is leftover from the flat tappet days. As they say, "old habits die hard". I would encourage you to ask some some of the reputable builders on this board and see what they say.

 

[yellowfever#154]

Ok guy's I appreciate everyone's advice, I think Im going to do the cam, push rod's and lifter's. Roe has push rods 3/8 for $235 or 5/16 for $182 are the 3/8 better and is there equal quality out there for cheaper? Roe also has a 710 camshaft for $699. what would be a brand with similar quality for cheaper? Then the Mopar high performance roller lifters are $590. are there other good lifters for lower price?

You need to get the flow specs from the heads and contact rottenronnie for a custom grind cam. Don't buy a over the counter camshaft, you will have much better results with a custom grind from someone who knows what they are doing. Ron is the cam guru.

 

[caveman]

You need to get the flow specs from the heads and contact rottenronnie for a custom grind cam. Don't buy a over the counter camshaft, you will have much better results with a custom grind from someone who knows what they are doing. Ron is the cam guru.

I'd be willing to bet he would also agree about it being OK to reuse the OEM lifters.

 

[ICPREY]

Yea screw the manual What does it know. Ask the guy who is doing the work if he's comfortable with reusing them. Is a Viper shop doing the work?

 

[yellowfever#154]

I reused mine, they work just fine and I'm building twice the power this build will be.

 

[ICPREY]

I would encourage you to ask some some of the reputable builders on this board and see what they say.

I've already talked to some very reputable Viper engine guys about this topic. I would change them out if for nothing else for performance. Fast bleeders are good for emissions but that's about it. You can actually take the lifters apart and use shims to make the lifters limited movement for max performance.

 

[Ventura SRT-10]

Yea screw the manual What does it know. Ask the guy who is doing the work if he's comfortable with reusing them. Is a Viper shop doing the work?

I work at a dodge dealer that I let diagnose it but not sure I feel comfortable letting them work on it though so I might have it towed some where else. some guys on here recomend A and C Performance also Specialty Performance team. Any info on which might be better? I was inclined to go with Specialty Performance as they are 75 miles from where I live vs. A and C being 150 miles away.

 

[NSDQ]

I've already talked to some very reputable Viper engine guys about this topic. I would change them out if for nothing else for performance. Fast bleeders are good for emissions but that's about it. You can actually take the lifters apart and use shims to make the lifters limited movement for max performance.

I think what everyone is trying to say is if the stock lifters can be reused, then use them. If they need replacing, then replace with slow bleed. The slow bleeds are $590. That's almost a damn cam. I don't think the performance you gain with them is going to be so significant that it's worth getting them if the stockers can be reused. The OP has said multiple times he's not looking to spend a ton of cash. Telling him he needs to spend nearly 600 bucks, almost a 1/4 of the cost of the heads he's buying, on lifters alone for minimal gains is not good advice. 2 well built trucks who have posted on this thread have reused their stockers. Many other cam and head builds have reused their stockers.

 

[RagunCajun]

Id build the bottom end. Do it once, do it right. That way you wont ever have to go inside the motor unless something fails. It will add a big cost to it but worth it if you ever decide to turn the wick up. Making trucks fast is always expensive.

 

[ARRESTmeRed04]

What are your end goals with the truck? If you don't plan to race it much or if you don't plan to keep it for several more years I say stick it back together with stock heads. Maybe use a thinner headgasket to give you a mild bump in compression and then do the bolt ons you want, and put the left over money in your pockets. Remember that 5k you're looking at spending isn't going to add anything at all to the value of your truck when you go to sell it.

 

[NSDQ]

Id build the bottom end. Do it once, do it right. That way you wont ever have to go inside the motor unless something fails. It will add a big cost to it but worth it if you ever decide to turn the wick up. Making trucks fast is always expensive.

Holy shit did this thread go off the deep end. One day we're saving him money by telling him the dealership is going to rip him and the next we're suggesting a forged engine build which we all know is minimum 3k in parts alone or more if you go with high end internals. You're not being helpful. He's only replacing his heads with the Roe heads because they are the same price the dealership wanted for stock heads. he doesn't have a ton of money.

I don't know what it costs to build a turd L engine like yours, but probably cheaper an the 10's. So your advice is not helpful.

From the OP:

Im not to mechanically inclined so my question is since Im already getting work done what else can I do to improve power that I wont spend a TON of money to do it? (already spending about $3,500 for head build, dont want to spend to much more)

 

[caveman]

I think what everyone is trying to say is if the stock lifters can be reused, then use them. If they need replacing, then replace with slow bleed. The slow bleeds are $590. That's almost a damn cam. I don't think the performance you gain with them is going to be so significant that it's worth getting them if the stockers can be reused. The OP has said multiple times he's not looking to spend a ton of cash. Telling him he needs to spend nearly 600 bucks, almost a 1/4 of the cost of the heads he's buying, on lifters alone for minimal gains is not good advice. 2 well built trucks who have posted on this thread have reused their stockers. Many other cam and head builds have reused their stockers.

Exactly! The OP is budget conscience and is just asking for a way to get the most bang for the buck. A cam swap will build a ton of power with the ported heads. And now is the time to do that, because the top end will already be apart.

 

[505'sFastestViper.]

Getting Roe Racing head build,What else should I do?under drive pully,throttle

[email protected] has custom grind camshafts available too


Dom
Undefeated on the Internet

 

[tribal636]

I work at a dodge dealer that I let diagnose it but not sure I feel comfortable letting them work on it though so I might have it towed some where else. some guys on here recomend A and C Performance also Specialty Performance team. Any info on which might be better? I was inclined to go with Specialty Performance as they are 75 miles from where I live vs. A and C being 150 miles away.

If you have the money to get it to A&C, I would definitely recommend them. I had my clutch, master and slave, radiator hard lines, JMB rad overflow, and stainless p/s lines done there. Great work, shop and owner are good guys, and they have some sweet cars there to look at when you are there.

 

[ICPREY]

I work at a dodge dealer that I let diagnose it but not sure I feel comfortable letting them work on it though so I might have it towed some where else. some guys on here recomend A and C Performance also Specialty Performance team. Any info on which might be better? I was inclined to go with Specialty Performance as they are 75 miles from where I live vs. A and C being 150 miles away.

Both shops will be fine. Get a quote from each and determine which one will be better for you. I would take it to someone who is more familiar with the Viper motor. If you do decide to have the dealership do it, make sure they degree the cam and not just line up the dots.

 

[Itsmekylep]

There are post of guys with stock cams and aftermarket cams having engine problems due to bending the oem ones. Aftermarket mainly for the more aggressive ramp up on the lobe profiles.

IMO upgrading while the engine is open, priceless.

Maybe thats why my truck clatters like a semi truck when i turn it off. :dontknow:

 

[Ventura SRT-10]

What are your end goals with the truck? If you don't plan to race it much or if you don't plan to keep it for several more years I say stick it back together with stock heads. Maybe use a thinner headgasket to give you a mild bump in compression and then do the bolt ons you want, and put the left over money in your pockets. Remember that 5k you're looking at spending isn't going to add anything at all to the value of your truck when you go to sell it.

My plan is to keep this truck for along time, I dont plan on going to the track but like to have fun around town. I got a smoking deal on this truck 2 years ago for only $16,900 and it only had 32,000 miles on it and its still currently valued at $21,000-$23,500 private party. So my concern isnt really over investing in it since I got such a steal on it.