got sim from roe

FaSt-RAM-716

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so i got my sims from roe today and i was wondering how they go on, i no i have to cut the sensors, thing is do i cut the sensor and then hook up the sims with the senor and put the senor back in the mids or do i take out the sensor and put plugs were the senors go on the mids?
 
Keep your front O2s in.

Remove the rear O2s from the wire harness

Cut the plug off the rear O2s

Splice the plugs onto the sims, they should have included instructions on what color wires to splice. If not call them, it is important to get the right colors together or you can fry the sims.

Plug sims into wires under truck and tie up out of the way.
 
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Looks like you got electrical sims. I have the mechanical ones. Screw in bungs and plug in. No wiring needed. You cant even connect them wrong as the front 02 sensors are a different plug than the rear ones. Sorry I cant help you with yours.

patrick
 
Do you really need sims? My understanding is all you have to do is wire the rear sensor to the frame to ground it or put in a spark plug fouler #009 and put sensor back in??
 
you guys without cats need sims or you need a pcm flash to eliminate your cel.....

mechanical sims are different from electrical..... with mechanical, you install the mechanical sims in the back two o2 sensor positions, then install your o2 sensor into the sims...... see pic in link:

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=133&t=229959

i used the #42002 part's from any local parts store for ~$6.00 a packet (you need a packet for each side)....... from each of the two packets, you need to drill out one of them with a 1/2" drill bit & install them like in the pics in the link above.... you'll probably have to unplug your battery to clear the code (~30 mins) & some driving time may also be involved to clear the code.....

what they do is remove your o2 sensors out of the exhaust stream enough to fool it into thinking there are cats...... work great on my system for months.........

any q's, just ask.
 
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You dont need sims.. take out the rear o2 sensors and strap them on the frame so they can sniff fresh air.

after that, plug the holes.

why buy sims??
 
FaSt-RAM-716 said:
so i wire the plug in to the sim?
all sims (electrical, mechanical or just strapping your o2 sensors to the frame) are relating to the rear two o2 sensors..

the sims you bought from roe are electrical sims, you have to switch a couple wires i think or it will blow your #49 fuse (if i remember right)....... i'd do a search for electrical sims for more info.......
i have mechanical sims, that's what my post & link refer to.... you're just modifying anti-foulers, installing them in the mid-pipe, followed by the o2 sensor..... much cheaper than electrical sims & trouble free........:D

now those who just strap their o2 sensors to the frame ?? your call, but not for me.......

btw, your mailbox is full.........:dontknow:

randy
 
Anti-foulers worthless!

I have not yet done my exhaust yet on my Srt10 But ive had 2 Dodge ram Hemi's last was an 05. Gutted the cats, removed the y pipe, 3 inch mandrels into magnaflow x-pipe and 2 SLOWmaster (im ashamed) 10 series delta force racing single chambers, into custom dumps before the axle. Sound was unbelievable for a stock cam.

Before i ever started it i drilled out antifoulers, screwed them into another and reinstalled the O2. Third time i drove it i got the check engine light. Reset it, third time the same thing. Buried myself into books and made a friend at the dealer before i learned, the lobe separation angle and duration of the stock cam, coupled with the scavenging effect of the mufflers and low-zero restriction exhaust pulled unburned fuel/vapor into the headers and cats. Causes an extremely rich state and kicks a code.

After 2002 models all DC factory computers control a/f ratio's with front O2 and emissions only with rear. It then stores the code first time it gets operating temp and open loop mode, and after the 3rd start if computer sees same code it will pop the CEL! Naysayers contradict if you will but the light is more than harmless. I picked up 22 hp 18 Tq at the wheel but Third start on the dyno after the light lost over 34. My viper tech at the dealer says DC had no reason to change their priorities with emission standards programming for the Srt10 and i will pop the same codes if i go with a similar set up as i did with the hemi.

If anyone has straight through exhaust, removed the rear sh*t cans, gutted the fronts and got away with it with antifoulers, let me know.

Ive got the thumpity thump of a v-8 in my blood, when i started a 500hp srt-10 beside my old truck i nearly asked for my keys back. I want people to hear my coming and animals to flee in terror! The exotic sound of this V-10 is unmistakable and has grown on me the past week . It has me hearing it in my sleep. I want it LOUD and raw, cant do that with cats. What are my options without spending 2G's right now.
 
It's really this simple:

Strap the REAR o2's where they will have fresh air across them when your moving, you will not throw a code...
 
JeffBoyette said:
I have not yet done my exhaust yet on my Srt10 But ive had 2 Dodge ram Hemi's last was an 05. Gutted the cats, removed the y pipe, 3 inch mandrels into magnaflow x-pipe and 2 SLOWmaster (im ashamed) 10 series delta force racing single chambers, into custom dumps before the axle. Sound was unbelievable for a stock cam.

Before i ever started it i drilled out antifoulers, screwed them into another and reinstalled the O2. Third time i drove it i got the check engine light. Reset it, third time the same thing. Buried myself into books and made a friend at the dealer before i learned, the lobe separation angle and duration of the stock cam, coupled with the scavenging effect of the mufflers and low-zero restriction exhaust pulled unburned fuel/vapor into the headers and cats. Causes an extremely rich state and kicks a code.

After 2002 models all DC factory computers control a/f ratio's with front O2 and emissions only with rear. It then stores the code first time it gets operating temp and open loop mode, and after the 3rd start if computer sees same code it will pop the CEL! Naysayers contradict if you will but the light is more than harmless. I picked up 22 hp 18 Tq at the wheel but Third start on the dyno after the light lost over 34. My viper tech at the dealer says DC had no reason to change their priorities with emission standards programming for the Srt10 and i will pop the same codes if i go with a similar set up as i did with the hemi.

If anyone has straight through exhaust, removed the rear sh*t cans, gutted the fronts and got away with it with antifoulers, let me know.

Ive got the thumpity thump of a v-8 in my blood, when i started a 500hp srt-10 beside my old truck i nearly asked for my keys back. I want people to hear my coming and animals to flee in terror! The exotic sound of this V-10 is unmistakable and has grown on me the past week . It has me hearing it in my sleep. I want it LOUD and raw, cant do that with cats. What are my options without spending 2G's right now.
you could try the strapping the back 2 o2 sensors to the frame ??

personally, i used the anti-foulers like i posted earlier in this thread (post #7) almost a year ago without any cel's..........
my setup is b&b complete setup (long tube headers, catless mids with catback)....... sounds great but it ain't cheap.......:rock:

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/b410ffe3-2581-4490-9b8a-9a3b011643f0.htm
 
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