Handling

Silverback said:
Here you go.

A. Definition

Bump Steer is when your wheels steer themselves without input from the steering wheel. The undesirable steering is caused by bumps in the track interacting with improper length or angle of your suspension and steering linkages.

Most car builders design their cars so that the effects of bump steer are minimal. However, you must still take care to bolt on your suspension carefully so as not to create unwanted bump steer. Make sure that you are always using the correct components for a particular car. Bump steer must be designed into the car and cannot be adjusted out if improper parts are used or if pivot points are moved without considering bump steer design principles.

In order to accomplish zero bump the tie rod must fall between an imaginary line that runs from the upper ball joint through the lower ball joint and an imaginary line that runs through the upper a-arm pivot and the lower control arm pivot. In addition, the centerline of the tie rod must intersect with the instant center created by the upper a-arm and the lower control arm (See diagram below).

The instant center is an imaginary point that is created by drawing a line from the upper a-arm ball joint through the a-arm pivot where it is intersected by an imaginary line that extends from the lower ball joint through the inner control arm pivot. Where the two imaginary lines intersect is the instant center.

Sounds complicated? Really it is very simple. To achieve zero bump the front end must be designed correctly. The tie rod must travel on the same arc as the suspension when the car goes through travel. Simply matching lengths and arcs to prevent any unwanted steering of the front tires.

To exaggerate, if the tie rod were only 10" long and the suspension were 20" long then when the suspension traveled the tie rod angle would shorten much quicker than the suspension arc. In this scenario the tie rod would shorten much quicker through travel than the suspension and the car would toe in drastically over bumps. The shorter arc of the tie rod would pull on the spindle and toe it in through travel.

Bump Simplified - When designing a car, if the centerline of the outer tie rod lines up with the centerline of the lower ball joint, and the inter tie rod lines up with the lower pivot point then the length and angle of the tie rod and suspension will be the same resulting in zero bump. Most car builders design their cars in this fashion.

Here is the site if you want to read more.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/longtech3.htm

I should also add that from my experience that the Perilli tires are part of the problem. They are a very square shouldered tire. That type of tire seems to follow grooves in the pavement more than more rounded tires.

So John,

First off, thanks for the informative data:

Since I'm a dumbass rock n roll musician who actually sounds more intelligent than he is, can you provide any specific tweaks that can be done to improve our handling other than changing the shitass Pirelli tires?

Can someone design a new set of performance replacements parts, thus creating an improved suspension system that can be simply swapped out and (thus) cure our handling problems.... Something which addresses all the geometry problems outlined in that report....?

SD
 
Silent D said:
So John,

First off, thanks for the informative data:

Since I'm a dumbass rock n roll musician who actually sounds more intelligent than he is, can you provide any specific tweaks that can be done to improve our handling other than changing the shitass Pirelli tires?

Can someone design a new set of performance replacements parts, thus creating an improved suspension system that can be simply swapped out and (thus) cure our handling problems.... Something which addresses all the geometry problems outlined in that report....?

SD

The problem we all face is that the SRT/10 is a very limited production vehicle. Then to top it off, only a small percentage of owners would want to buy any product that could be developed. We are just F' ing lucky we have Boomer that will spend the time to develop items for our trucks.

I know, that didn't answer your question. Sorry.

One way to lower the front of a vehicle like ours is to design and manufacture a new spindle. What you do is raise the spindle in relation to the A-Arm attach points (the ball joints). This leaves all the suspension geometry points in place while moving the tire/wheel up. Make sense??

I could be wrong on this, but I believe because of the high loads that the spindle sees, they are generally forged and then machined. Needless to say, a costly process.

Did that help?
 
DJM has a fix for the Chevys that flips the tie rod upside down but nobody that I know of does this for the Dodge. Stinker runs a Modified Mustang link. Maybe Boomer could do something with this?
 
Silverback said:
The problem we all face is that the SRT/10 is a very limited production vehicle. Then to top it off, only a small percentage of owners would want to buy any product that could be developed. We are just F' ing lucky we have Boomer that will spend the time to develop items for our trucks.

I know, that didn't answer your question. Sorry.

One way to lower the front of a vehicle like ours is to design and manufacture a new spindle. What you do is raise the spindle in relation to the A-Arm attach points (the ball joints). This leaves all the suspension geometry points in place while moving the tire/wheel up. Make sense??

I could be wrong on this, but I believe because of the high loads that the spindle sees, they are generally forged and then machined. Needless to say, a costly process.

Did that help?

Yup.....................................

HEY BOOMER..............................!!!!!!!!!!!!

SD
 

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