Hard shifting

sinus19

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Messages
589
Reaction score
0
Welp... just my luck. Yesterday shifting becam harder and harder to put in. Now i cant put it in Reverse. Gears will go in with no problem with the truck off. Checked the clutch reserv. and its full. Got a new clutch in (5,000 miles) and while i was under there, the slave looked good, no leeks. Wondering if its the Master? Or maybe theres air pockets in the line but how would air get there all of a sudden?..what should my diagnostic process be?

1. Clutch oil level (checked)
2. ?
3. ?
 
Bleed the slave. There is a bleed nipple on the slave just above where the clutch hose goes into the tranny.Work any air out. keep the resevoir full. If the slave isn't leaking it should work. The Master cylinder does all the work. try to change the oil in both by pushing it through the slave bleeder. hope this helps.
 
Note bellhousing and whether it's dry or not. If Slave puked it'll show signs. Disconnect quick connect line at slave if it's dry and no leakage present. Wiry line disconnected, press with hand on clutch pedal. It should be rock hard and not move. If it does, master is at fault. If not slave or possible pressure plate issue.
 
hmm okay i well try em out soon as i get home, thanks! I'll keep ya'll posted
 
It's possibly the shift fork pads inside the transmission. The factory ones are made of plastic, and over time can fail.
 
Something is wrong with the clutch. That's why it won't go in gear running. Unfortunately I found a few bad pressure plates over the years. A few were new or low miles.
 
Its the Master! Disconnected the line and the pedal sunk.
 
Installed the new master and im the pedal still sinks with the line disconnected from the tranny...?
 
Then you have air in the line.

There's air from the clutch master cylinder to the quick connect. You can take the clutch master cylinder out the truck and bleed it. dont forget to tap the lines to get bubbles off the inside walls off. here's a link to show you what i mean.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91IYY_YENRw

Yes it's a different vehicle but it shows you how to bleed it out the vehicle.

Also when bleeding it all connected, bleed it a few times then let it sit for an hour or two. that lets the hundreds of little teeny tiny bubbles come together. Then get in the truck and press the pedal to the floor and have someone crack the line open. Let sit for an hour or two. Repeat until good.

edit* your old master may still be good. You may of just bought a master for nothing.
 
Last edited:
No the old Master was diff. Messed up. Got the new one in and bleed it the same way we were trying to with the older one. It now works perfectly! Thanks guys for the support!
 
No the old Master was diff. Messed up. Got the new one in and bleed it the same way we were trying to with the older one. It now works perfectly! Thanks guys for the support!

Great to hear bud.yeah some masters are pre-bled while others are empty. Glad she's moving again. :rock:
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top