Hard Time Shifting into Gears

jsandlin

jsandlin

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I have a B&M shifter on my 04 RC. While the truck is off it goes through the gears easily. When the truck is on it has to be forced into the gears and a pop sound is made. Any ideas?
 
jsandlin said:
I have a B&M shifter on my 04 RC. While the truck is off it goes through the gears easily. When the truck is on it has to be forced into the gears and a pop sound is made. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

My first reaction would be to look at the clutch hydraulics....

The slave and master sould be replaced with the Viper upgrade and the lines should be sheilded from the heat.... It has also been recommened to go to Motul 4 dot... (Been ahwile-I'm going from memory)

D
 
I have similar issues but I found my clutch fluid reservoir real low yesterday upon realizing the clutch pedal was requiring more push to disengage. I put more fluid in and pumped her up. Now I can only shift into 1st. But I'm certain it's because air is in the lines. After consulting a higher power on here (won't mention his name so he won't be bombarded with calls) I will be bleeding the clutch system myself of old fluid and air. #1900 is currently jacked up on stands in the garage.

:argh:HEY TIM! DOT4? I have DOT3 in my possession now. This isn't good enough?
 
valvoline syntec works really well anthony, its in a gold quart at auto zip, has a great high boiling point and not extremely expensive
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
valvoline syntec works really well anthony, its in a gold quart at auto zip, has a great high boiling point and not extremely expensive
Click to expand...

CHECK! I will be heading out now to get some... Thanks Tony.:D
 
yeah I also spoke to the higher power and Tony told me what to do. Hope it helps. The clutch is only like 6 months old. hope it helps.
 
Venom Power said:
I have similar issues but I found my clutch fluid reservoir real low yesterday upon realizing the clutch pedal was requiring more push to disengage. I put more fluid in and pumped her up. Now I can only shift into 1st. But I'm certain it's because air is in the lines. After consulting a higher power on here (won't mention his name so he won't be bombarded with calls) I will be bleeding the clutch system myself of old fluid and air. #1900 is currently jacked up on stands in the garage.

:argh:HEY TIM! DOT4? I have DOT3 in my possession now. This isn't good enough?
Click to expand...


Corect you are as is whoever told you so. Open the top on your master fluid resevoir. Notice whether the fluid is black or dark colored vs. being clean. I bet it's pretty darn black, right. Use a turkey baster to remove the old fluid and replace with new. Use DOT4 as the boiling point is much higher. Your clutch area in side the bellhousing gets extremely hot due to the friction of the clutch on the flywheel. IMagine the temps on hard runs!! It basically boils this clutch fluid ( brake fluid) and bakes it. Shielding from exhaust is highly recommended as well as changing the fluid frequently.

THe CORRECT way to do this is by bleeding the entire system via the line connecting to the tranny. IT has a check valve that must be depressed to allow the fluid to escape. This is a buddy system job ( need your ole lady or bud) as one will pump the clutch like you would brakes then the other bleeding under the truck. NEVER let the resevoir get too low, check it every 3 bledds or so and top it off or you'll reintroduce air back into the lines and that is pretty much where most RC owners are having shifting issues, especially the 2-3 shift that the miracle shifter handle swap DOESN'T fix!
Also I am waiting on a master cylinder line and master itself to try an idea that worked for my Trans Am, and many a Camaro and Vette owner as well as a couple T-56 Cobra owners to make the 2-3 shift butter. Hopefully, once I receive this set I can try my ideas and have someone install to see if it works as intended. Basically I increase the pump on the Master and increase line diameter to flow fluid quicker and with more volume. In essence you all are out shifting the clutch. Yall fockers are fast lil speedshifters aren't ya.;)
P.S. Bleeding the master and slave literally take an hour to do completely. All BS aside and I have tried the Mityvac and one man bleeders with no luck. It TAKES the BUDDY SYSTEM! Just when you are tired of bleeding and refilling and climbing back under the truck........bleed some more. When the clutch has a nice firm pedal you have achieved an air free system.
 
Last edited:
VENOMOUS1 said:
Corect you are as is whoever told you so. Open the top on your master fluid resevoir. Notice whether the fluid is black or dark colored vs. being clean. I bet it's pretty darn black, right. Use a turkey baster to remove the old fluid and replace with new. Use DOT4 as the boiling point is much higher. Your clutch area in side the bellhousing gets extremely hot due to the friction of the clutch on the flywheel. IMagine the temps on hard runs!! It basically boils this clutch fluid ( brake fluid) and bakes it. Shielding from exhaust is highly recommended as well as changing the fluid frequently.

THe CORRECT way to do this is by bleeding the entire system via the line connecting to the tranny. IT has a check valve that must be depressed to allow the fluid to escape. This is a buddy system job ( need your ole lady or bud) as one will pump the clutch like you would brakes then the other bleeding under the truck. NEVER let the resevoir get too low, check it every 3 bledds or so and top it off or you'll reintroduce air back into the lines and that is pretty much where most RC owners are having shifting issues, especially the 2-3 shift that the miracle shifter handle swap DOESN'T fix!
Also I am waiting on a master cylinder line and master itself to try an idea that worked for my Trans Am, and many a Camaro and Vette owner as well as a couple T-56 Cobra owners to make the 2-3 shift butter. Hopefully, once I receive this set I can try my ideas and have someone install to see if it works as intended. Basically I increase the pump on the Master and increase line diameter to flow fluid quicker and with more volume. In essence you all are out shifting the clutch. Yall fockers are fast lil speedshifters aren't ya.;)
P.S. Bleeding the master and slave literally take an hour to do completely. All BS aside and I have tried the Mityvac and one man bleeders with no luck. It TAKES the BUDDY SYSTEM! Just when you are tired of bleeding and refilling and climbing back under the truck........bleed some more. When the clutch has a nice firm pedal you have achieved an air free system.
Click to expand...


And all this information is from a QC owner.. :congrats: Impressive. I couldn't find DOT4 so I got another bottle of DOT3. This is the first time this has happened but it was inevitable since I haven't changed the fluid since the upgraded clutch and parts were done back in 2006. I know I know, I need to be drawn and quartered.. :dontknow: But no one has ever told me.
 
Brotha if QCs came with 6 speeds that's what mine would be. Hell it still might one day? :dontknow: I may do the conversion with someone who wants an Auto RC.

My experience is from working on many a t-56 tranny for friends as well as my own.
 
Okay, I crawled under the truck and opened the valve with a 11mm box end as my daughter held down the clutch pedal. As it was suggested dirty fluid came out with air. We did this several times until nothing came out. But the pedal wasn't getting any spongier. It just went all the way down to the floorboard. I began to wonder if there was a leak. After 80 or so pumps nothing else was coming out the valve. After waiting a little while another attempt DID result in more air coming out. The reservior never got close to empty. I was told to get a brake vacuum pump to draw the old fluid out of the valve just in case the dirt clogged up the valve. I'll do that on Friday

IMG00401-20091125-1611.jpg


The black piece that plugs into the tranny, is that supposed to shake slightly? because it does. I wonder if a leak is present there.

IMG00402-20091125-1611.jpg
 
Clutch

Forgot to mention that yes every time you crack it the pedal will go to the floor and stay. Pull it back up with your hands or toes. She needs to pump 10 times and hold it bout 3/4 in. When you crack it the pedal will go to the floor. Lift off floor again and repeat....repeat....repeat! I swear it's literally a straight hour each time. Only crack it a lil each time. To completely bleed the old fluid out, remove line at tranny and depress valve and pump clutch to expel all old oil. Still have to keep the resevoir full at all times. Good luck!
 
clutch not engaging

Well I spoke to stinker and he said it sounds like my clutch is not engaging. I bled my clutch and nothing changed. I did notice that with the clutch engaged and in first gear I rev the engine and the truck wants to start moving. I remember someone on the forum diagnosed a problem when this happens. Any know?
 
JRSVIPR said:
Same to you Tony, My wife has to work today so i'm just hangin.
Click to expand...
chief stopped in on his way to see family, so got up a touch early:D but the bird is in the oven, but think I will get a quick nap:p
 
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