Help, Lower control arm removal

Viper Beau

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
84
Reaction score
0
Putting in Stinkers Energy Bushing kit this weekend. Can you guys explain how to remove the lower control arm. I don't have much mechanical experience and am unsure about the shock/spring assembly "unloading" on me.
Also, how do I get the upper control arm completely off. I am not sure how to remove the bolt on the "swivle boot" portion. Obviouly, I know how to unbolt the two bushings, just not the swivle boot bolt. Any help would be much appreciated. I'm off the Home Depot to buy a torch. Those stock bushings are a major pain:mad:
 
Your going to need a ball joint fork to help separate the ball joints from the spindle.

Jack up truck/truck lift.

Take off calipers and plug brake lines.

Take off rotors

Take off shock

Spring should slid out. IF not you can just leave in until you get the spindle separated. Or get a spring compressor. If you have lowered springs they should just come out after the shock is out.

Loosed all the ball joint bolts on the spindle about 3/4 way.

Stick fork for between ball joint and spindle and hammer in until they separate. You will need the right fork. I had one too big and didnt work. You will also probably destroy the boots.

You then can revome the spindle and spring. The upper and lower control arms are pretty self explanatory in removal.

I suggest you go find a shop that has a press. Takes like an hour total to get the bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in.

The uppers are APITA. You need the metal casings left intake and the bushings emptied. They are a bitch to get out. The uppers are a very light cast aluminum. DO NOT HAMMER ON THE UPPER A ARMS. They bend easy also.

Boots are not easy to find. I am still in the process of trying to find the steering ball joint boot cover. Im taking it off tomorrow and going on over to Summit Racing to find a match.

Good Luck. Gunnah need patience my friend.

SHU
 
PS-be carefull with the torch on the upper control arms. As they are cast aluminum and melt EASILY. Also if you do use the torch the fumes and smoke are pretty caustic and black. Do it outside for sure.

Trust me and find a shop with a manual press. The tranmission shop around the corner had one that worked for me.


SHU
 
The above sounds good to me. Burn out the old bushing with a torch, I tried with a press first and the torch is easier. Just start them on fire and let them melt away. Do this outside as the smoke is very bad, and also the melted rubber makes a mess of the ground so do it somewhere that you dont care about the ground. Also wear long sleeves and pants when handling because trust me melted rubber "F"in hurts.

Also one other thing, after you have installed the new bushings hold the A arm in place and make sure that the outsides of the new bushings ride snuggly in the part of the frame where you are bolting it in. The A arm once in place should not be able to slide forward and backwards. mine did once I installed it and now the inner cups in the A arms that hold the bushings need to be moved so that everything is tight.
 
yellowfever#154 said:
The above sounds good to me. Burn out the old bushing with a torch, I tried with a press first and the torch is easier. Just start them on fire and let them melt away. Do this outside as the smoke is very bad, and also the melted rubber makes a mess of the ground so do it somewhere that you dont care about the ground. Also wear long sleeves and pants when handling because trust me melted rubber "F"in hurts.

Also one other thing, after you have installed the new bushings hold the A arm in place and make sure that the outsides of the new bushings ride snuggly in the part of the frame where you are bolting it in. The A arm once in place should not be able to slide forward and backwards. mine did once I installed it and now the inner cups in the A arms that hold the bushings need to be moved so that everything is tight.


:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

i guess its the truck mechanic in me, but i just loosened the ball joint nuts bout a half turn & whacked the spindle & they popped loose. no boot damage
a 20 lb. sledge with a 6" handle works great
:rock:
 
ZCx said:
:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

i guess its the truck mechanic in me, but i just loosened the ball joint nuts bout a half turn & whacked the spindle & they popped loose. no boot damage
a 20 lb. sledge with a 6" handle works great
:rock:

This is how I did mine as well, tractor mechanic here.
 
yellowfever#154 said:
This is how I did mine as well, tractor mechanic here.

:rock: :congrats: :rock: :congrats: :burnout: :burnout:
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top