Hesitant Starting??

[Psycho Mythic]

Ok, havent drove the truck much lately, i fixed the bad airline so ill be driving the truck to work all this week.

The truck has a good Optima Red Top battery but it hesitates really bad sometimes when starting. At times it will click once then blank out for a full 2 seconds then turn over and crank. Seems to be worse than before it sat up for a few days, and i worried its gonna decide not to crank one day, at least thats what it sound like.

Is there a fix for this? Anybody know why its doing this so bad? :dontknow:

 

[Hatedonmostly]

My old suv did the same thing. Had a wire pulling power 24/7 from the alarm. Gave me a dead cell in my battery. And then it was dead. Stuck at work and a jump would not even start my car. Battery was less than a month old. I even had a ohio gen alt spun to 160 amp's with a floating charge of 13.8 but still it was dead. I dont know how your's is but mine would try to start and sound very weak and then have a lot of cranking amps and start. than El-croke. Hope it help's ya.

 

[ZCx]

battery still in the stock location????

 

[razorbackfan]

I had the red top in my wife's tahoe die this week. Had to buy a new batt.

 

[Psycho Mythic]

battery still in the stock location????

The battery has been relocated to the rear (behind the passenger rear tire). I seems as if it has a slight drain on the battery, soon as i get a chance i will check that out.

 

[ARRESTmeRed04]

The battery has been relocated to the rear (behind the passenger rear tire). I seems as if it has a slight drain on the battery, soon as i get a chance i will check that out.

mine turns over a lot slower now too since i put the rear mount batt kit in, i think it's just because off all the extra wire it draws a lot more current than stock but i've got the factory batter still

 

[TNVIPER]

I have had the rear mount for about a year now...no difference in engine turnover or any other issues...

 

[ZCx]

mine turns over a lot slower now too since i put the rear mount batt kit in, i think it's just because off all the extra wire it draws a lot more current than stock but i've got the factory batter still

i have Justin's kit also. not installed yet

goin with 1/0 weldin cable, both positive & negative, back up to the engine.

goin with that Odessy battery, those are impressive batteries.

as soon as the factory batt gives up the ghost

:rock: :rock: :rock:

 

[Dom426]

i have Justin's kit also. not installed yet

goin with 1/0 weldin cable, both positive & negative, back up to the engine.

goin with that Odessy battery, those are impressive batteries.

as soon as the factory batt gives up the ghost

:rock: :rock: :rock:

you are runnin the ground all the way back up to the motor....why:dontknow: :dontknow: :dontknow:

 

[Stanimal]

Ok i worked as a electric auto specialist. the ecu drains the battery slowly over time. max allowance is 1/4 amp draw. way to test this is disconnect the positive cable and run a Ohm meter between the positive cable for the truck and the battery. i have tested on my truck and it was about 1/8th amp draw which will drain my red top in a week if not started. over time it kills the cells if the battery is not maintained. my advice is this. start the truck once a week and let it run for at least 5 minutes even if you cant drive it. my truck has been sitting on my trailer wrecked for a year now and gets run every friday night . have yet to have a dead battery. one other option is to put a battery monitor in line from the battery to the main positive cable. i used these on police cars with cameras that drained the battery in 12 hours. basically, it disconnects the power when the battery hits 11.9 volts so it does not get drained and ruin the cells. you can run a wire bypassing it to the fuse panel to keep the radio and clock still set. best thing to do for this is take it to a QUALIFIED auto electrician and tell him what you want done. either option will fix the issue

 

[Chuck B]

11.9vdc represents greater than 50% discharge to the battery. Thats not good for a battery. If a vehicle sits a simple solution is to hook up a smart charger. Your better ones will not only maintain proper voltage but also condition the battery. Optima brand is my current favorite.

As for the problem at hand. I'd start with load testing the battery. If it checks out simple backyard mechanic next step would be to perform voltage drop tests on the starting circuit. Often this will identify a poor connection on either the positive or negative side of the circuit.

 

[Psycho Mythic]

Thanks alot guys! I have an OHM reader so i check that first today. :rock:

 

[Prof]

Ok i worked as a electric auto specialist. the ecu drains the battery slowly over time. max allowance is 1/4 amp draw. way to test this is disconnect the positive cable and run a Ohm meter between the positive cable for the truck and the battery. i have tested on my truck and it was about 1/8th amp draw which will drain my red top in a week if not started. over time it kills the cells if the battery is not maintained. my advice is this. start the truck once a week and let it run for at least 5 minutes even if you cant drive it. my truck has been sitting on my trailer wrecked for a year now and gets run every friday night . have yet to have a dead battery. one other option is to put a battery monitor in line from the battery to the main positive cable. i used these on police cars with cameras that drained the battery in 12 hours. basically, it disconnects the power when the battery hits 11.9 volts so it does not get drained and ruin the cells. you can run a wire bypassing it to the fuse panel to keep the radio and clock still set. best thing to do for this is take it to a QUALIFIED auto electrician and tell him what you want done. either option will fix the issue

Great post!

 

[ZCx]

you are runnin the ground all the way back up to the motor....why:dontknow: :dontknow: :dontknow:

i'm a bit anal bout grounds. since steel is 2 or 3 steps below copper for conducttivity, length of cable, heat, cold, etc. i think it would be best to have a "dedicated" ground to the battery & still have your frame grounds.
:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

 

[Prof]

i'm a bit anal bout grounds. since steel is 2 or 3 steps below copper for conducttivity, length of cable, heat, cold, etc. i think it would be best to have a "dedicated" ground to the battery & still have your frame grounds.
:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

Explain please. I am putting the JMB remote battery kit in now...are you advocating a copper ground near the rear mount?

 

[ZCx]

i'll be running the ground cable full length with the positive cable from the battery to the starter Prof. pretty much like the battery was still close.

the weldin cable is made for high amps & longness.

have made sevseal sets for folks over the years out of weldin cable. for the big trucks. and have seen excellent service life & seems to help the life of the batts, starter & alt.

just my personal prefference basicly

 

[Prof]

Thanks, that helps me alot!

Your experience is very helpful. I am going to consider your approach.

 

[Dom426]

i'm a bit anal
:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

ok i understand!

 

[SANCHOBA]

now that i think about it.....after a month sitting at a time my truck hesitates a little at start up and i have a redtop optima,time for a battery tender i guess:dontknow:

 

[ZCx]

ok i understand!

& where is the rest of the friggin quote???????????