Hi Temp Spray Paint?

FastRam

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Last week I had Mopar's Cat Back installed on my truck. When I picked up the truck, I didn't notice any leaks but after several trips to and fro work, they have gotten worse. The connections at the mids are the worst and I have a small leak at the left muffler output. The remaining 3 connections, right muffler output and the 2 connections for the tails seem OK. I have made several attempts to adjust/rotate the band clamps, retorque, etc. Today my dealer did the same (my dealer was not the one who installed it), tried and retorque/adjust the clamps -- still got leaks. My dealer and the original installer suggested welding the system as this appears to be the only leak free option. I have worked out an agreement with the original installer to weld up the system. No problems here but I was wondering what paint is the best to use to coat the weld joints? I have looked at VHT and Duplicolor, both offer high temp coatings. Any other suggestions? Coating durability and long life for a daily driver is what I am after.
 
i use 1600 degree high temp satin black paint... but after a few weeks it'll still burn off an get dull about every other wash i climb under the truck and spray them again.... if the welds are good you shouldn't have to spray them but i think it looks nicer i normall spray the whole exhaust
 
try this before you weld them, we did it on bikes all the time and worked great even on two strokes

taake red hi temp silicone and sear a thick bead on the inside of the pipe, then slide the other in, and retighten, fire it up, let it rid, and most likely the leaks will be gone
 
Stinker said:
try this before you weld them, we did it on bikes all the time and worked great even on two strokes

taake red hi temp silicone and sear a thick bead on the inside of the pipe, then slide the other in, and retighten, fire it up, let it rid, and most likely the leaks will be gone

Stinker, I would try this but the problem is my installer will charge me more $$$ to drop the exhaust, silicone it and then put it back in place -- of course with no guarantee the leaks would seal. I would try this fix myself but I have no way to get the truck in the air and I'm too fat to try and do this without a lift.

I'm not too keen either on a fully welded system but at the same time I am sick of listening to the ticking and want it fixed without incurring more install $$$. Luckily my dealer who tried tom fix the leaks yesterday didn't charge me any $$$ for what they did -- kudos to them.
 
dude just weld it..... be done and over with it.... and then 10 years from now you'll prob have to get some pipe replaced
 
This system is T304 stainless isn't it. If that is the case it should be done using a TIG and some 304 rod. No paint will be necessary then. If you weld it with a MIG it will rust from the inside out even if you do paint the joints.
 
alexspop said:
This system is T304 stainless isn't it. If that is the case it should be done using a TIG and some 304 rod. No paint will be necessary then. If you weld it with a MIG it will rust from the inside out even if you do paint the joints.
welder to the rescue:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 
Tooloe said:
dude just weld it..... be done and over with it.... and then 10 years from now you'll prob have to get some pipe replaced

That's what I'm gonna do and probably what I should have done to begin with.
 
alexspop said:
This system is T304 stainless isn't it. If that is the case it should be done using a TIG and some 304 rod. No paint will be necessary then. If you weld it with a MIG it will rust from the inside out even if you do paint the joints.

Yep, T-304 stainless. My installer has the TIG and I'll check with him to make sure he has the right weld rod. Thanks for the help.
 

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