Home AC HELP...EXPERT ANYWHERE?

[The Itch]

I have a Heil Heat pump (model # YJ060GA2) and I’m pretty sure my Fan Motor is going (the fan motor is ¼ HP single phase). The condenser runs but the fan doesn’t turn. I have sprayed lube on the fan end and loosened it up and it works most of the time but today it started again with the “not turning†stuff. Luckily I was next to it when it kicked on. I have found universal motors - do they work? The unit still looks good without any rust anywhere so I wouldn’t mind repairing it. I just don't want to start tearing it apart while it's 99* and 99% humidity until my ducks are all lined up...:dontknow:
My question is, before I order a motor and possibly screw it up, is there an expert on the forum??? I don’t know crap about AC systems but if it is just an electrical motor swap, I think I’m up to it.
Here is a picture of the unit and the unit info tag. I'm a slow reader so type slower for me...

 

[JRSVIPR]

I have a Heil Heat pump (model # YJ060GA2) and I’m pretty sure my Fan Motor is going (the fan motor is ¼ HP single phase). The condenser runs but the fan doesn’t turn. I have sprayed lube on the fan end and loosened it up and it works most of the time but today it started again with the “not turning” stuff. Luckily I was next to it when it kicked on. I have found universal motors - do they work? The unit still looks good without any rust anywhere so I wouldn’t mind repairing it. I just don't want to start tearing it apart while it's 99* and 99% humidity until my ducks are all lined up...:dontknow:
My question is, before I order a motor and possibly screw it up, is there an expert on the forum??? I don’t know crap about AC systems but if it is just an electrical motor swap, I think I’m up to it.
Here is a picture of the unit and the unit info tag. I'm a slow reader so type slower for me...
View attachment 27605View attachment 27606

Just curious,What type of lubricant did you spray on it? Not WD-40 right?I say that because,I have seen WD-40 go up in flames.

 

[The Itch]

Just curious,What type of lubricant did you spray on it? Not WD-40 right?I say that because,I have seen WD-40 go up in flames.

Lythium spray grease. But I've only been doing that a couple of weeks.:dontknow:

 

[amtrucker22]

My fan motor went out about a month ago. I just went to an A/C repair place here locally that serviced my brand and bought a motor from them (I think it was $90). While I had the fan out, I ran a sprinkler over the coils to keep it cool.

 

[MisterRite]

I'm no longer in heaing and air, But as long as you match the universal fan motor with your existing one, it should be a simple swap. I had to do the same thing a few years back and all I did was went to my local CC Dickson supply store (specialty supply store) and purchased a fan motor with the exact same ohms and voltage drain. After that a very simple swap.:congrats:

 

[bigike]

Yep just get a universal or reman motor that match's your data plate ie voltage amps freq.........................................

 

[flchub]

depending on the fan u have now the universal one will probably have 6 wires instead of 4 wires,check to make sure your circuit breaker is working properly ,hookup a voltage meter to make sure ur getting 220 at startup

 

[Beavis]

When you say fan motor are you talking about the condenser fan motor or the indoor fan motor. Based on the picture you are showing I'm assuming you are talking about the fan that is outside on the condenser unit. Ususally when these fans go out they will not work at all or will barely turn with lots of noise and will become extremely hot to the touch. If it works sporadically and seems to have a hard time getting started moving, but is fine once it does, then you probably just have a bad capacitor instead of a bad motor. Replacing both should cost you less than $50 at any reputable ac parts provider. Either provide them with the info listed on the motor or take it with you and they should be able to provide you with a direct replacement that will wire back in exactly the same. I would do this instead of getting a "universal" motor as it may not be specifically suited for your application and could underperform or not perform at all.

 

[FastRam]

If you have a good multi-meter, good meaning it has the ability to measure capacitance, you measure the capacitor to check if it's performing to the nameplate rating. Also, you may have a bad sensor or contactor that controls the fan motor. Loose connection, contact or wiring corrosion can cause problems as well. Hopefully your unit doesn't use an electronic control board, this may mean a call to the service man. Also, Grainger is a good source for motors -- just match the electrical, frame and shaft dimensions.

 

[The Itch]

I’m pretty sure it’s the motor going bad. It had locked up when I first noticed the problem and worked grease into the shaft area.
I’ll try Grainger this morning and see if they have what I need. I’ll change the capacitor and motor if available.

 

[The Itch]

If you have a good multi-meter, good meaning it has the ability to measure capacitance, you measure the capacitor to check if it's performing to the nameplate rating. Also, you may have a bad sensor or contactor that controls the fan motor. Loose connection, contact or wiring corrosion can cause problems as well. Hopefully your unit doesn't use an electronic control board, this may mean a call to the service man. Also, Grainger is a good source for motors -- just match the electrical, frame and shaft dimensions.

Does the capacitor only control the fan? ~AND~ Is there anywhere to get one on a Sunday in friggn Pinellas county???:argh: :argh: :argh: Grainger is closed for the weekend...

Here is a shot of the electrical guts. Anything jumping out at any of you???

 

[flchub]

Does the capacitor only control the fan? ~AND~ Is there anywhere to get one on a Sunday in friggn Pinellas county???:argh: :argh: :argh: Grainger is closed for the weekend...

Here is a shot of the electrical guts. Anything jumping out at any of you???

View attachment 27632

do u have a votage meter? if so put ur on the capacitor wires going fromthe capicitor to the fan,theres 2 hot wires,make sure u have 220 volts going to the fan ,if u do the capacitor is fine

 

[The Itch]

I haven't located my meter yet but from the sound of it the capacitor is probably the culprit. I've gone on other DIY forums and read a few threads from guys with the same problem. I just wish I could locate one NOW. This being a holiday weekend is making part shopping a PIA. Thanks for the input guys. :rock: :rock: :rock: :congrats:
I'll probably change both as soon as I can find a supplier but I'll start at the capacitor...

 

[flchub]

I haven't located my meter yet but from the sound of it the capacitor is probably the culprit. I've gone on other DIY forums and read a few threads from guys with the same problem. I just wish I could locate one NOW. This being a holiday weekend is making part shopping a PIA. Thanks for the input guys. :rock: :rock: :rock: :congrats:
I'll probably change both as soon as I can find a supplier but I'll start at the capacitor...

go get a meter for 15 bucks before u waste money of stuff u dont need

 

[The Itch]

go get a meter for 15 bucks before u waste money of stuff u dont need

I've got one. I just have to go to my shop to get it tomorrow. My crap is scattered all over the state...:argh:
I fugure I have at least 1 more day to troubleshoot before I can get the parts anyway. ~SO~ We should have a record breaking heatwave tomorrow.

 

[amtrucker22]

Like I mentioned in the earlier post. You can you a sprinkler that constantly sprays on the coils to keep them cool and still run your A/C. I did for about 8 hours without a problem.

When turning the blades does it spin freely? Mine had some resistance and that was the culprit.

Just a thought.

 

[FastRam]

Does the capacitor only control the fan? ~AND~ Is there anywhere to get one on a Sunday in friggn Pinellas county???:argh: :argh: :argh: Grainger is closed for the weekend...

Here is a shot of the electrical guts. Anything jumping out at any of you???

View attachment 27632

The cap probably helps start just the compressor but it may be wired into the condensing fan motor as well. The black thing is a contactor. The large black wires on the right side may be the input wires (power supply) and the colored wires provide power to the comp/cond/controls. The PCB, on the right, is the main controller. Can you Post a picture of the wiring diagram? I looked at Heil's website and they don't even provide on line owners manual. I guess they really want your service business. Sorry I don't know where else you can get a motor, other than an HVAC parts retailer and they are probably closed as well.

 

[The Itch]

Like I mentioned in the earlier post. You can you a sprinkler that constantly sprays on the coils to keep them cool and still run your A/C. I did for about 8 hours without a problem.

When turning the blades does it spin freely? Mine had some resistance and that was the culprit.

Just a thought.

If it gets real bad I may do that thanks...:congrats:

 

[The Itch]

After it's all said and done... Both the cap and motor were bad. I figure my trying to keep the motor running ruined the capacitor. The motor would seize after about 10 minutes. I stood and watched it until it happened. It would heat up and lock up. After cooling it would spin no problem...

It's fixed now, after taking it in the shorts at the parts supply warehouse. I'm not a certified tech and didn't have an account so I had to go down the street order it at a retailer then go back and pick it up. Cost me an additional 100.00 for someone to take my money and write me a receipt so I could pick it up at the wholeseller's... My butt hurts but it's cool now...

 

[AWDisuzu]

it's always more satisfying to fix it yourself especially when an ac tech would have charged you a lot more! you don't have a home warranty by chance? I just bought one. $400 a year and covers a lot of $$ things like the AC, appliances, garage door opener, electrical, plumbing, etc.