How low can I go with my RC

allwayssideways

allwayssideways

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Hi guys

I have a Ground Force lowering kit installed 1/2 (spring/blocks)

I am now thinking of getting new DJM control arms for the front, shackles and 3.5 blocks for the rear.

Will it work?

Marc
 
depends on how driveable you want it to be....... i lowered mine 3" in the rear by de-arching my springs with no issues......... some, many qc's are having vibration issues after lowering theirs....

the front's, i'm waiting on 2" drop spindles that are backordered... meanwhile, i went with 2" lowering springs (actually ~1.5") with new bumpstops & don't like the ride in front at all.... i'm thinking about the 2" drop spindles with 1" lowering springs - to get it as low as i can & still be driveable..... others are using airbags ??

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=445377&postcount=61
 
Last edited:
moparracing said:
depends on how driveable you want it to be.......
Click to expand...

:dito:
You could go even with airride systems etc. Depend how you wanna take it.
Looks vs comfort
 
the drop spindles would be nice.. can you use thoes with the regular drop kit to get extra " dropage"
 
No spindels. DJM lower control arms 2" or 3" so with a 1" spring you can get about max 4" lower than stock.
At the rear I will try 3 1/2" blocks and shackles.

We will see. :rock:

Cheers
 
Borden3srt said:
who makes the drop spindles?
Click to expand...
brand name is "solo", but i'm told you have to go thru a dealer to get them........ i think stinker was going to add them to his list of parts for sale, but they are "backordered"......:(
 
allwayssideways said:
No spindels. DJM lower control arms 2" or 3" so with a 1" spring you can get about max 4" lower than stock.
At the rear I will try 3 1/2" blocks and shackles.

We will see. :rock:

Cheers
Click to expand...
i only had 4" of clearance in the front to start with...... so, if i went with 3" lower control arms & a 1" spring, i'd have tires into my wheel well liners with no suspension travel left.......;)

has anyone actually used these DJM lower control arms ? :dontknow:
what were the results ?
 
If you go much lower then Mopar,your going to br bouncing off the bumpstops steady! Unless you have same extreamly smooth roads? I've had two lowered trucks already one was DJM control arms and the other one on bags,And I would ridet it 2" off the ground,but with air you can raise it when need be which is very handy,better then punching a hole the oil pan!And when the frame or a cross member hits the ground and bottoms out, KABOOM! The fun goes away really quick!
 
Yellow venom 366 said:
If you go much lower then Mopar,your going to br bouncing off the bumpstops steady! Unless you have same extreamly smooth roads? I've had two lowered trucks already one was DJM control arms and the other one on bags,And I would ridet it 2" off the ground,but with air you can raise it when need be which is very handy,better then punching a hole the oil pan!And when the frame or a cross member hits the ground and bottoms out, KABOOM! The fun goes away really quick!
Click to expand...
did you have any negatives using DJM lower control arms ?
were there alignment issues ?
don't they reduce your suspension travel, while drop spindles do not ?
 
moparracing said:
did you have any negatives using DJM lower control arms ?
were there alignment issues ?
don't they reduce your suspension travel, while drop spindles do not ?
Click to expand...

The only problem I had with the DJM control arms is that when you turned tight all the way as far as the wheel will turn that the inside lip of the wheel would touch the control arm,For alignment they couldn't get it 100% it was closer to about 90%,but I did't have any pull and the front tires were not wearing funny,perfectly smooth and no feathering.For suspension travel I only had about 1 1/2" and if you hit any big bumps,you knew about it in a hurry and hitting the bumpstop all the time it would chew the bumpstops off.Also the DJM's have grease nipples wich is a bonus with the urathane bushings,No sqweeks!:rock:
 
Yellow venom 366 said:
The only problem I had with the DJM control arms is that when you turned tight all the way as far as the wheel will turn that the inside lip of the wheel would touch the control arm,For alignment they couldn't get it 100% it was closer to about 90%,but I did't have any pull and the front tires were not wearing funny,perfectly smooth and no feathering.For suspension travel I only had about 1 1/2" and if you hit any big bumps,you knew about it in a hurry and hitting the bumpstop all the time it would chew the bumpstops off.Also the DJM's have grease nipples wich is a bonus with the urathane bushings,No sqweeks!:rock:
Click to expand...
so the DJM lower control arms did reduce your suspension travel, right ?
 
Yes Mopar,they did before I had over 4" of travel and after the control arms I had about 1 1/2" of travel,Very well built control arms.
 
Yellow venom 366 said:
Yes Mopar,they did before I had over 4" of travel and after the control arms I had about 1 1/2" of travel,Very well built control arms.
Click to expand...
thanks for the clarification..... this is why i'm going with drop spindles instead.:)
 
3 in the front will get you into the wheel liners.

3 in the back will give you and inch travel between the axle and the frame.

you will need to c notch it and you will need to shorten the driveshaft
 
Marc, Takes Stinkers word for it, I have airide in the front, 3.5" drop in back on a RC. I had to chop the front wheel well liners up, dont have tops in them, and we are C-notching the frame in the rear next week. Also, your stock wheels will not work due to backspacing, you will also have to roll the front lip of the fenders or you will hit them. The look is COOL, but it takes alot of work!
 
Thanks for all your help. I received the controll arms today and will make pictures of my work, so you can see where the help where need.

At the back I saw the problem befor I ordered the parts, but I think I will find a solution for that.

I like to drive the RC and also the power as it is BUT its to high and need lowered. We will see. :rock: :rock:
 
Stinker said:
3 in the front will get you into the wheel liners.

3 in the back will give you and inch travel between the axle and the frame.

you will need to c notch it and you will need to shorten the driveshaft
Click to expand...


You offer notch kits don't you ? How deep are they ?
 
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