How to put a new clutch and flywheel in an SRT10 RC

[Cudajon]

I did it. Put a brand new Centerforce clutch and aluminum flywheel in my truck. I got lots of picture and will post those that are relevant. I did this over a three day weekend because my truck is a daily driver and I need it running to go to work. Knowing this I waited till all the parts had arrived, once I started I had three days to finish no matter what. I ordered a complete kit: master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch, flywheel, da da da. It was 45 degrees outside so I pulled it into my garage and jacked up the front end about 5 inches. The tires were still touching the ground but I didn't want it too high. One of the guys here said I could do this without pulling the tranny mount, so thats what I was gonna do, but it couldnt be too high or my floor jack couldn't be used to support the tranny. I decided the first thing to do was install the new Master cylinder and line. I was gonna have to find a place for the reservoir and mount it. It looked like a great place on the inner fender, below the hood hinge. I had to remove a ground wire but it fit just fine.

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv190/Cudajon/Clutch/IMG_0320_zps7f215ee1.jpg

It sit at a small angle but that was just so I could remove the cap easier, it worked straight up but was close to the wiring harness running behind it. I moved the ground lug to a spot underneath and the reservoir was mounted. Next I moved to mounting the new master cylinder. I removed the old one after disconnecting it from the slave and clipping a couple of tie wraps, easy as pie. I put the spacer on the new master cylinder Slid it in the hole and bolted it down. OOps my clutch pedal was pressing up against the dash when I tried to connect it to the master. WTF? I unbolted and removed the spacer, put it back in and I coudn't get close to hooking up the pedal. I removed it again and compared it to the stock master I had removed. Oh crud, the shaft on the new master was 3" longer than the stock master.

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv190/Cudajon/Clutch/IMG_0328_zpseb495584.jpg

I called the supplier, and after many calls it was found out I had been sent the master for a late model Viper. And no it would not work. I re-installed the stock master. Because it was late Saturday by this time I knew there was no chance to do anything else. I started disconnecting all the wires on the tranny and then went up top and disconnected the shifter, boot and console. Everything was clear up top. By now I had shot Saturday and called it a day.

 

[Cudajon]

How to put a new clutch and flywheel in an SRT10 RC Part 11

Sunday. I was still pretty disgusted about Yesterday but waited till the garage warmed up a little (50 degrees) thanx to a space heater. I crawled under the truck and began to remove the driveshaft. Had to jack the rear up so I could rotate the wheels to position the universal to reach the bolts. Its a strap type connector. Whoever tighten the bolts must have been hercules, to prevent damaging the bolts I run down to autozone and buy a new socket. Done and done. I pull the driveshaft. Years of experience has shown me if I take a shop towell and roll it up I can run it around the tailshaft of the tranny and it will not leak.

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv190/Cudajon/Clutch/IMG_0334_zps6533a54d.jpg

After making sure everything is outof the way its time to unbolt the tranny. It appeared there was plenty of room to disconnect it at the bellhousing, I didn't relish the idea of disconnecting the tranny from the bellhousing and then the bellhousing from the engine. You always pull the top bolts first, its areal PITA to have the tranny hanging from a bolt or bolts up top whan you are trying to remove them. Up top on the drivers side is a mother of a bolt to get to.

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv190/Cudajon/Clutch/IMG_0335_zpsc0584034.jpg

Its because of the fuel lines and the fact its so tight you cant get two hands up there to position the socket w/universal and 14" of extensions. All the rest of the bolts are a snap, except old hercules overtightened everyone. My poor impact wrench wouldn't break them lose till I had first loosened them with a breaker bar. It hurts like heck when the impact wrench smahes your hand up against something because it ain't budging the bolt. Back to that bugger bolt on the top drivers side. After a lot of talking to myself and a good two hours (i'm going to hell after my language, tut tut) I finally break it loose. All the bolts are out, I then unbolt the rear tranny mount. Dodge did good here its really nicely engineered. I slide my floor jack in and a little lift and I remeove the tranny mount. I grab the tranny and a little wiggle and back it comes I keep it straight and it comes back right out of the old clutch.

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv190/Cudajon/Clutch/IMG_0341_zps0dc6a073.jpg

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv190/Cudajon/Clutch/IMG_0340_zps62725c8c.jpg

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv190/Cudajon/Clutch/IMG_0346_zps0ad80064.jpg

As can be seen in the pictures there is a not a whole lot of space when you do it this way but there's enough. And surprise surprise!! It had a Centerforce in it already. What? I bought this with less than 10k on it from a dealer in Chicago who said it had only been used on the showroom. Obviously the showroom had burnt up the stock clutch and they had upgraded it. Theres a small little dust shield on the bottom of the block that is just above the cross brace. Two 10mm bolts and its off. It provides the perfect place for my pry bar to rotate the engine and remove the pressure plate. I trmove the prssure plate and clutch disc (yep its centerforce too). The stock steel flywheel looks great, but off it comes. These bolts were torqued to specs so hercules missed these when he was tightening stuff. I then check the pilot bearing (crap I forgot to get a newone) and it looks really good, so I aint messing with it. I decide that good for today I'm tired, hungry and I've given enough blood to my truck for the day.

 

[Cudajon]

How to put a new clutch and flywheel in an SRT10 RC Part 111

Monday morning, I sure hope I dont have any more problems, tomorrow I got to drive this thing to work. Looking in on the slave cylinder everything looks good, no leaks, lots of clutch dust, I clean it up. Oh shoot I need to replace the throwout bearing. I check the new slave cylinder/door stop (it will not work with the stock master cylinder, the hose connection is different) and remove the bearing off it. IT FITS!! Good, calling around everybody laughs when I ask for one. I get the aluminum flywheel out of the box. Its beautiful. I crawl back under the truck and bolt it on. I torque to specs and the check my torque, make sure I used locktite on those bolts I did I did.

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv190/Cudajon/Clutch/IMG_0352_zps48d95b6e.jpg

Now the new centerforce pressure plate and disk weighs more than the new flywheel. Lifting those up there and getting the bolts started assured me a front row seat in hell. Got it, locktited the bolts and torqued and retorqued those little farts.And I didn't forget the alignment tool. Right where it was supposed to be. Double checked everything, made sure no lines or anything had falling down when I moved the Bellhousing up to the block. Everything looked clear so Very easily I stabbed the tranny into the new clutch. It always makes it easier to put the tanny in gear and them put the driveshaft into the tranny. That way you can rotate the tranny snout a little bit and line it up on the disk. Slid together like it was made to fit. The rest was bolting it all back up and bleeding the master/slave cylinder. I filled the master up, pushed down on the clutch, used a rod to hold the pedal down, bled the slave, release the clutch pedal slowly (do not pump), Push down on the pedal, and rpeat at least 10 times.

Go for a test drive. Feels good. Old clutch lasted at least 70k. I don't want to do this again tomorrow.

Thickness of new clutch disc.

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv190/Cudajon/Clutch/IMG_0355_zps90dcd2bf.jpg

Thickness of old clutch disc.

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv190/Cudajon/Clutch/IMG_0356_zpsbf37576c.jpg

Reason clutch statred slipping

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv190/Cudajon/Clutch/IMG_0351_zps19d747c7.jpg

Looks like a piece of the lining came loose and caused the rivet to be marked. No indication on Pressure plate of Flywheel, but there was enough clutch disc left it still should have been fine.

 

[Slitherbeast]

Good job getting through it yourself! saved a bunch of cash and learned stuff. I perfer to leave the bellhousing on the engine and take just the tranny . once on your back you feel the weight , it isn't to bad.... going down anyway!! then the bellhousing bolts are easier when you can tilt the engine back abit. I drain the tanny oil prior as well. Had a crotch full of Dextron doing an autoomatic back about 25 year ago and really still remember the rash i got from it!!!! Never again............always drain!

 

[Chuck B]

Congrats! I just changed my mstr and slave unit a couple weeks ago. Didn't bother changing the original clutch as it was still working just fine...140K so far. Had mine out and back in and running in about 3hrs. Doing the clutch would add considerable time...

 

[Cudajon]

Did you put in the updated master and slave or go back stock? How do you like it?

 

[Chuck B]

I did the Viper mstr/slave from JMB. Works fine and I appreciate the added quality. I'm sure it will outlast my OEM....only got 140K out of it. :driver:

 

[danrduc]

Hi Cudajon, I need an 04 RC stock flywheel for a sample to get a flexplate machined. Any chance of borrowing yours, or are you willing to sell it cheap? Dan 48zerotwo36one483