INFO FOR NEW/PROSPECTIVE OWNER

[SANCHOBA]

wanted to start a thread for new owners or folks looking to purchase a srt-10. when someone asks what to look for or what a problems we are coming across, we can direct them here.maybe we can get it made into a "sticky"

1. camshaft sprocket bolts(TSB)
2.loose crankshaft pulley bolts
3. clutch hydraulic lines to close to exhaust
4. tears in rubber door seals (i believe this was a TSB)
i know there is more ....anyone?

 

[Da1Chief]

Oil Cooler Lines, Auto Tranny Kit

 

[SANCHOBA]

was there a TSB on the sub amp? (RC)

 

[viperhauler]

not to my knowledge...but now i wanna know...

basically all RC hydrolic systems (specifically the slave)
wasn't there a harmonic balancer bolt or something, too?

 

[FastRam]

Shifter. Hurst is good but unfortunately not in this case. B&M IMO is way better than OEM.

Brake dust -- truck comes with really stout brakes which create a mountain of dust. Be prepared to clean, forget about cleaning or switch to aftermarket pads which may perform differently than OEM.

Tires/handling -- on my 06, the Pirellis work well, overall. However they demand respect (meaning easy on the slim pedal) in the wet. And they can be a cause for rough ride or erratic tracking/handling. I have found since I brought my 06 into a DD role, the truck at times seems to track strangely. I found one stretch of road locally that requires attention due to pavement ruts and undulations. Other than that the OEM tires are OK. Others have reported a change in tires and/or suspension setup (lowering) improves the situation.

Oil usage: my 06 just turned over 3500 miles. When I bought it, it had 162 miles showing. I had the oil changed when I brought it home (at about 950 miles). Since 950 to 3500 miles I have used 1 quart of oil. I checked for leaks around the oil lines and found no problems but regardless this issue will be looked at tomorrow by my local dealer. Many others have reported problems with the OEM lines leaking. Stinker offers a really good oil line alternative to the OEM package.

I have had one issue with the power steering pump making a rather large grinding noise at full lock, either right or left. Fluids were OK, no leaks and the dealer gave it a clean bill of health. So far mine works fine, except for the noise. Some have reported problems with the pump and leaking and failing PS lines. The OEM PS line uses the same style OEM attachment set up at the pump (upper line I recall) as the oil lines. A replacement line is being developed by Stinker.

Master/slave cylinder -- these have been reported (by many) as weak links attributed to poor material selection for the components, e.g. plastic vice metallic, pressure holding ability, etc. These are a common warranty issue. For the clutch itself, some swear by Centerforce or others and some are satisfied with OEM and the upgraded hydraulics. So far, mine has been fine with no problems. But when it comes to time to replace the clutch, I am highly considering the upgraded components with an OEM clutch/PP and flywheel.

Gas usage, goes without saying -- don't buy one of these if you're looking for fuel economy. This vehicle will not meet your needs if economy is a factor in the buying formula. I am averaging currently 10 mpg, commuting 40 miles to and fro work. The commute is a mix of stop and go traffic, slow paced (10 - 20 mph) interstate or back roads (at 35 to 50 mph).

Upkeep and O&M: these vehicles are considered performance oriented. Be prepared for higher O&M costs, especially when things break as compared to a "run of the mill" vehicle.

I hope this information helps.

 

[SANCHOBA]

wasn't there a harmonic balancer bolt or something, too?

same as the crankshaft pulley bolt.

 

[moparracing]

wanted to start a thread for new owners or folks looking to purchase a srt-10. when someone asks what to look for or what a problems we are coming across, we can direct them here.maybe we can get it made into a "sticky"

1. camshaft sprocket bolts(TSB)

camshaft sprocket bolts ? hadn't heard of this one...... what is the issue & is it year specific ?:dontknow:

 

[SANCHOBA]

Date: April 2004

Effective immediately, all repairs on involved vehicles are to be performed according to this notification. Service Action #04-006 is being cancelled. Those vehicles that have already had this repair performed, as determined by our warranty records, have been excluded from this notification.

Models: (DR) Dodge Ram SRT-10

2004 (ZB) Dodge Viper
(DR) Dodge Ram SRT-10

NOTE: This notification applies only to the above vehicles equipped with an 8.3L V-10 engine (“Z” in the 8th VIN position) built through January 31, 2004 (MDH 013100).

NOTE: This recall only applies to the above vehicles that were built through January 16, 2004 (MDH 011622).

IMPORTANT: Some of the involved vehicles may be in dealer vehicle inventory. Dealers should complete this repair on these vehicles before retail delivery. Dealers should also perform this repair on vehicles in for service. Involved vehicles can be determined by using the VIP inquiry process.

Subject:

The camshaft sprocket retaining bolts on about 1,200 of the above vehicles may not have been properly tightened. A loose cam sprocket bolt can back out and cause significant engine damage.

Repair:

The camshaft sprocket retaining bolts must be tightened to the proper specification.

Parts Information:

IMPORTANT: Due to the small number of involved vehicles, no parts will be distributed to involved dealers. Parts may be ordered as needed to support scheduled repairs.

 

[SANCHOBA]

AHA!
found the TSB on sub amp:
Date: January 12, 2006

THIS BULLETIN IS BEING PROVIDED IN ADVANCE. DO NOT ORDER PARTS OR
PERFORM ANY ACTIONS RELATED TO THIS BULLETIN UNTIL JANUARY 30, 2005.

Models: 2004 - 2005 (DR) Ram Truck SRT10

Overview:
This bulletin involves replacing the 2 channel Audio Amplifier (AMP) and 8 channel AMP.

Symptom/Condition:
Crackle, pop, and static sounds heard from subwoofer speaker (most noticeable at
key-on). Also reduced subwoofer output is possible.

 

[Chuck B]

With 86,000 miles experience on my 05 RC....

Tires: I've had 6 sets, 5 of which were different. I'll continue with Yokohama Prada Spec's

Brakes: OEM's work outstanding however major dust, squeaks and severe wear to rotors will occur. I've done OEM rotors and EBC green pads, however, I'll stick with rotors and pads from Zeckhausen racing.

Oil Exchanger lines: If your truck still has them replace them....now!

Power Steering: Same quick connect fitting on the HP side of the steering pump as found on the Oil Exchanger lines. Seems to be less prone to failure however great time to replace this one fitting when you flush your PS system.

AC: Often passenger side will blow warmer than drivers. Have your AC person slightly over fill with R134.

Clutch: Many have had issues with slave/mstr. Imho its primarily those who abuse or have no idea on how to use a manual.... If you need to replace go with Viper parts. My original is still working fine...:rock: (knocking on wood)

Cosmetic: Keep your steering wheel clean and conditioned otherwise it will look like crap in short order. I treat mine every wash and so far looks good as new. Clearcoat on factory wheels is marginal at best. Keep them clean, waxed and they will be fine, otherwise moisture will work its way to the aluminum and looks like crap. Permastar is a great alternative....my Permastar treated rims have over 50K miles on them and look perfect. If you do a drop kit make sure your alignment guy has a clue. Most shops will only due toe in and not get camber/castor back to factory specs. Most trucks (04,05) need modifying to the upper adjustment slots. 06 front suspension is completely different. Upgrade the OEM shifter to B&M....nuff said.

Personal observations: 04-05 are very similar. 05 have enough factory updates that to me make it far more desirable. Biggest of which is anti knock sensor. 06 is a nice looking truck however the interior changes ruin an otherwise nice styling upgrades. As previously mentioned 06 has different front suspension and electrical is Canbus system. Those who would consider or have purchased the quad cab....I don't see the reasoning. This is a sport truck....diesel would be better application in QC platform. RC can be used as a truck....hauling and towing with no issues. Payload is on par with standard 1/2 ton and when towing just remember to use your clutch with a bit of common sense.

 

[ROGUE]

Though the RC is certainly the best option for speed, etc., do you really feel that the QC is negated? I mean, I need to haul people too. I don't see doing a hauling in general, but here and there maybe. The RC performance isn't THAT far ahead of the QC as far as I have seen. Where it gets me is the tranny. Who wouldn't prefer a manual?

I want one of these BAD. I sold my Audi S4 avant because I had a kid and didn't want a 2nd car payment. Now, I am ready for another auto and this is what I am looking at.

I want a truck that can haul people, thus QC is the option for me. I also want a truck that I will be passionate about and that can haul serious ass. This is truly the only truck on my list that meets my criteria.

In the future, I can see doing some power mods like a supercharger or something, but it will all depend on whether or not I think it is worth it at that point in my life. My goal would be to drive this as my DD until it is paid off and then by a fairly cheap daily and keep this as my toy. Eventually adding serious power without being invasive to the engine itself.

Am I way off track here?

I am looking at trucks with the lowest mileage possible. A 4k-14k example is running $27-$32,000. Good idea, bad idea?