Input needed on brakes

Azmotorhead

Azmotorhead

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Need some info from everyone on brakes on my 05.
Here's the history. Last week switched from the 04 calipers to 05 new (stock)4 piston calipers. Posi quiet pads from Dave installed, rotors turned.
Since the new calipers have been installed it seems that my brake pedal has more travel when the brake pedal is first applied. If I let the pedal up and reapply the pedal I have less travel on second application.Pedal firmness feels about the same on both apps. I've measured the pedal travel while sitting in the driveway and difference between 1st and second application is only about 1/4 inch. If I stay off the pedal for a bit and try it again I get the low pedal again with subsequent pump up.
Now I have bled the front brakes in every manner possible. (I never touched anything on the rear brakes) Calipers on- calipers off,
Calipers set with bleeder screw straight up, Whacked calipers while bleeding with rubber mallet, 2 person method, pressure bleeder,gravity bled,vacuum bled nothing has helped.
Now keep in mind braking with the 05 calipers and pads from Dave is much improved from the 04 setup.
I'm wondering if I have the pad retainer spring installed incorrectly causing the spring to push the pads/pistons back away from the rotor surfaces. This would cause pedal travel like I'm experiencing.
Anyone have any insight on this -experience the same thing with your truck?
How about a picture of how the springs should be orientated.
This has me at wits end
TIA
 
Azmotorhead said:
Need some info from everyone on brakes on my 05.
Here's the history. Last week switched from the 04 calipers to 05 new (stock)4 piston calipers. Posi quiet pads from Dave installed, rotors turned.
Since the new calipers have been installed it seems that my brake pedal has more travel when the brake pedal is first applied. If I let the pedal up and reapply the pedal I have less travel on second application.Pedal firmness feels about the same on both apps. I've measured the pedal travel while sitting in the driveway and difference between 1st and second application is only about 1/4 inch. If I stay off the pedal for a bit and try it again I get the low pedal again with subsequent pump up.
Now I have bled the front brakes in every manner possible. (I never touched anything on the rear brakes) Calipers on- calipers off,
Calipers set with bleeder screw straight up, Whacked calipers while bleeding with rubber mallet, 2 person method, pressure bleeder,gravity bled,vacuum bled nothing has helped.
Now keep in mind braking with the 05 calipers and pads from Dave is much improved from the 04 setup.
I'm wondering if I have the pad retainer spring installed incorrectly causing the spring to push the pads/pistons back away from the rotor surfaces. This would cause pedal travel like I'm experiencing.
Anyone have any insight on this -experience the same thing with your truck?
How about a picture of how the springs should be orientated.
This has me at wits end
TIA
Click to expand...


Sounds like you still may have air in the sytem, rebleed them and try again:dontknow:

thewelshm
 
I've flushed about 2qts through the system. Last time I did it was with the bleeders standing straight up. Clear vynil tubing over both bleeders both bleeders open, caliper pistons pushed all the way back into their bores* & pads blocked so they wouldn't move. Then pumped the brake pedal so I had nothing put fluid going from the caliper back to the master reservoir.

with piston pushed back into the bore there is only a small passage in which the fluid will flow from one bore to the next & then to the bleeder screw
 
Last edited:
Azmotorhead said:
I've flushed about 2qts through the system. Last time I did it was with the bleeders standing straight up. Clear vynil tubing over both bleeders both bleeders open, caliper pistons pushed all the way back into their bores* & pads blocked so they wouldn't move. Then pumped the brake pedal so I had nothing put fluid going from the caliper back to the master reservoir.

with piston pushed back into the bore there is only a small passage in which the fluid will flow from one bore to the next & then to the bleeder screw
Click to expand...


Were the calipers and pads against the rotor? I may be wrong but it sounds like you may have bled them a little more unconventional than I would?:dontknow: :dontknow: I usually get my son in the truck pump brakes until pedal is firm hold minumum pressure on the peda,l then release the nipple untill the pedal goes to the floor, with a clear plastic tube on the nipple going into an old container, add fluid to the resevoir each time and do it again, then jump over to the opposite side and perform the same ( never have a problem) I know there are different procedures but I guess Im old school:D


thewelshm
 
i would suggest bleeding the rears ....

i too use the "old school" method with 2 people. :)

if that doesn't work, i'd be suspicious of the master cylinder..... are they the same on srt & non-srt models ??:dontknow:
 
Last edited:
I did try it with the 2 person method in the conventional manner even used my son to help me.
All components in my brake system are from a SRT10
Never broke into the rear system but I will try bleeding them just to make 100% sure.
Can anyone shoot me a picture of the pad retainer springs?
 
Azmotorhead said:
I did try it with the 2 person method in the conventional manner even used my son to help me.
All components in my brake system are from a SRT10
Never broke into the rear system but I will try bleeding them just to make 100% sure.
Can anyone shoot me a picture of the pad retainer springs?
Click to expand...

I Dont have a pic but the retainer is held in place, with I think a 12mm allen bolt ( Sears) going through a tube perpendicular to the pads. The springs (2ea) clip onto the 4 ea lugs on the pads, I think it would be pretty hard to F#5k up that install:D Try bleeding the back ones otherwise if you have no apparent leaks it may be the master cylinder:dontknow: :dontknow:

thewelshm
 
i would try the whole system first also.
is there a difference between the '04 master cylinder & the '05 since Dodge upgraded the calipers??? any difference in any of the valves between the 2 year models????
 
moparracing said:
i would suggest bleeding the rears ....

i too use the "old school" method with 2 people. :)

if that doesn't work, i'd be suspicious of the master cylinder..... are they the same on srt & non-srt models ??:dontknow:
Click to expand...
your answer is probably here:rock: :rock:
 
I Dont have a pic but the retainer is held in place, with I think a 12mm allen bolt ( Sears) going through a tube perpendicular to the pads. The springs (2ea) clip onto the 4 ea lugs on the pads, I think it would be pretty hard to F#5k up that install
Click to expand...
If you look at the spring from the top of the caliper the way it is bent at the ends, they could be installed with the curl going out or going in. Mine are installed with the curl going out.
I'll do a rear bleed & let you know
 
I had the same issue when I 'accidentally' ripped my left rear caliper off the truck (don't ask). Anyways, I tried every kind of bleed technic there is...one person, two person heck even hired a supervisor to stand and watch! Tried power flushing from the calipers....everything. Nothing got rid of the that initial extra travel. Ended up taking it to the dealer. They claimed it was all fixed but still did it.

Ended up taking it to a local shop and friend who owns it....Service First in NPhx. He got the problem solved. He said its to do with the ABS system. You have to go in with a scanner and set up the ABS electronically to be flushed. Works like new now.
 
Chuck B said:
I had the same issue when I 'accidentally' ripped my left rear caliper off the truck (don't ask). Anyways, I tried every kind of bleed technic there is...one person, two person heck even hired a supervisor to stand and watch! Tried power flushing from the calipers....everything. Nothing got rid of the that initial extra travel. Ended up taking it to the dealer. They claimed it was all fixed but still did it.

Ended up taking it to a local shop and friend who owns it....Service First in NPhx. He got the problem solved. He said its to do with the ABS system. You have to go in with a scanner and set up the ABS electronically to be flushed. Works like new now.
Click to expand...

sounds like the ticket:rock: :rock: :rock:
makes sense.
 
Chuck if the rear bleed doesnt do it I'll give them a call. DO you have a contact there or a number?
BTW I got some billet door handles they need to get painted to match the tailgate handle I got from you can you shoot me the name of your painter?
 
Azmotorhead said:
Chuck if the rear bleed doesnt do it I'll give them a call. DO you have a contact there or a number?
BTW I got some billet door handles they need to get painted to match the tailgate handle I got from you can you shoot me the name of your painter?
Click to expand...

Painter would be me.....:p Not a good time for side work for me at this time....sorry. See Michael's Collision‎ at 11044 N Cave Creek Rd (602) 371-1700. Michael is a huge Dodge fan and his guys do nice work. I've had them do odd jobs for me when I didn't have time. Just make sure whoever paints for you that they use Prime&Seal as base. Another alternative...Id look at powder coat from http://www.metzcon.com/affordable/ I just used these guys on two recent motorcycle restorations. They did nice work...fair pricing.

John or Mike at Service First - 12614 N Cave Creek Rd 602 788-7833. Just up the street from Michaels. Mike knew instantly what needed to be done. John is the owner. Both he and Mike are old school mechanics. I stop by all the time just to see what they are working on. John is one of those guys who helps DIY guys who dream of building/modifying their own cars and need a little help along the way. Just a couple weeks ago he had a Cobra, early 70's FJ with C5 Vette engine and a daily driver 1940's era sedan/hotrod. Mike works on the more modern stuff.
 
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Azmotorhead said:
If you look at the spring from the top of the caliper the way it is bent at the ends, they could be installed with the curl going out or going in. Mine are installed with the curl going out.
I'll do a rear bleed & let you know
Click to expand...

I think the curl should be going in, or south or how you look at it from above, either way this wont affect your pedal, as retaining the pad shouldnt change the pedal, bleed the rears and let us know.:)

thewelshm
 
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