Installed B&M shifter today...STILL not happy!

V

vvv90

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Not about the shifter though. MAN is this thing freakin' sweet! Very crisp and precise. If Boomer's X-Metal shifter is better than this then it must give BJ's or something because I couldn't imagine better performance.

However,

What I'm disappointed about is that my shifts have not smoothed out, meaning, there's a slight resistance when shifting hard. This causes a delay that would certainly hurt my ET times by about .2 I can speculate.

I'm pretty sure it's a hydraulic issue. I plan on flushing it out and changing the tranny fluid to see if it helps. If not I might have to upgrade the master and slave.

What do you guys think? It should shift smoothly after a master/slave upgrade even on a stock clutch right? :dontknow:


P.S. I noticed that this thing was VERY loud after I installed it, but after going around the block a few times it quieted down significantly. I'm guessing it just needed some oil on the surfaces.
 
vvv90 said:
Not about the shifter though. MAN is this thing freakin' sweet! Very crisp and precise. If Boomer's X-Metal shifter is better than this then it must give BJ's or something because I couldn't imagine better performance.

However,

What I'm disappointed about is that my shifts have not smoothed out, meaning, there's a slight resistance when shifting hard. This causes a delay that would certainly hurt my ET times by about .2 I can speculate.

I'm pretty sure it's a hydraulic issue. I plan on flushing it out and changing the tranny fluid to see if it helps. If not I might have to upgrade the master and slave.

What do you guys think? It should shift smoothly after a master/slave upgrade even on a stock clutch right? :dontknow:


P.S. I noticed that this thing was VERY loud after I installed it, but after going around the block a few times it quieted down significantly. I'm guessing it just needed some oil on the surfaces.
Click to expand...
you can't get around this:
new shifter, b&m or x-metal
viper master/slave cylinders
centerforce clutch
fidanza aluminum flywheel (optional)
 
I was told by a VERY prominent member on this forum that even the B&M shifter will (!@#$%^&*()_+) stick in that nasty spot between gears when you slam it hard into 3rd.......

I'm loathe to put it this way, but I'm waiting for Gary's GenXVIII shifter before I buy.

This situation (as I see it) has two issues, vibration vs: perfect shift.... If yer a racer go with X-Metal's latest shifter product...(and know that yer an idjit if you put a T-handle on it....... the knob rotates.)

Otherwise, just learn to shift what yer driving (with) now.......

But (know for certain that) the B&M is not a perfect solution to missed shifts....

Django
 
^^ I don't know who the prominent member is....and I'm not questioning you D, but my B&M has NEVER stuck between the gears. I've had both aftermarket shifters. They both shift great and they both freakin rattle.

NEITHER one hit 3rd any better than the other one in my opinion. Both are WAY better than stock. ;)

Go with the one you like best. :dontknow:
 
ViperTruck2933 said:
^^ I don't know who the prominent member is....and I'm not questioning you D, but my B&M has NEVER stuck between the gears. I've had both aftermarket shifters. They both shift great and they both freakin rattle.

NEITHER one hit 3rd any better than the other one in my opinion. Both are WAY better than stock. ;)

Go with the one you like best. :dontknow:
Click to expand...

I appreciate the deference....Thanks....

I think there's also alot of room for human error too....... These shifters rely solely on the eccenticities of each driver and the shifter's own individuality too.

Anytime one has as many flex points as (A) the human body and (B) a spring loaded shifter...... almost anything can happen....

I've just succumbed to reports that racers want the X Metal and those who simply want an improvement in shifts go with the B&M....

But everyone's got his own experience......... I have only reports from which to glean.

D
 
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One more thing to say, sorry.......

If the B&M shifter works so well, why was this thread started? (he's unhappy)

D
 
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I'm about ready to purchase a shifter. Was leaning toward B & M, now not sure which way to go ???????

Does Lakewood make a shifter for our trucks, or is that the wrong way to go ????
 
ViperTruck2933 said:
^^ I don't know who the prominent member is....and I'm not questioning you D, but my B&M has NEVER stuck between the gears. I've had both aftermarket shifters. They both shift great and they both freakin rattle.

NEITHER one hit 3rd any better than the other one in my opinion. Both are WAY better than stock. ;)

Go with the one you like best. :dontknow:
Click to expand...


i'm pretty happy with my b&m! The only time it rattles is when ever i rest my hand on it. Besides that it is pretty quiet and accurate..worth every penny!
 
vvv90 said:
Not about the shifter though. MAN is this thing freakin' sweet! Very crisp and precise. If Boomer's X-Metal shifter is better than this then it must give BJ's or something because I couldn't imagine better performance.

However,

What I'm disappointed about is that my shifts have not smoothed out, meaning, there's a slight resistance when shifting hard. This causes a delay that would certainly hurt my ET times by about .2 I can speculate.

I'm pretty sure it's a hydraulic issue. I plan on flushing it out and changing the tranny fluid to see if it helps. If not I might have to upgrade the master and slave.

What do you guys think? It should shift smoothly after a master/slave upgrade even on a stock clutch right? :dontknow:


P.S. I noticed that this thing was VERY loud after I installed it, but after going around the block a few times it quieted down significantly. I'm guessing it just needed some oil on the surfaces.
Click to expand...
sounds great! i looked threw our vendor list and cant find a part number or price:dontknow: not sure if this is it, but summit has one (bmm 45040) for 279.95 is this the right part # and is that where you got yours? Thanks Bill
 
Viper master/slave and a centerforce clutch is the real answer (as others have mentioned).
Here are some cheaper "bandaids" :D Redline tranny fluid helps. Even the stock shifter works well if you remove the isolator and bolt it solid. I put my isolator back in because of the harmonics resonating up through the shifter (20 years ago, I probably would have left it.;) ). The easiest solution I have found is to only take 2nd gear to about 5300. If you go higher, the counterweights on the stock clutch overpower the stock slave cyclinder and the clutch isn't fully released. You can go higher in the other gears without a problem.
 
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I'm gonna give my genIV shifter another go this weekend (saturday) with some informal 1/8 mile racing. I've tightened up the bolts on the handle since 2 weeks ago and it feels better. I wont have to go to 4th gear however. 1-3 had no problems.

I'm also aiming to get video of my launches with another video from in the truck. I'm gonna play with my rear shock settings and get video (hopefully) of it...I wanna see if lowering the rear settings (from 4 presently to 3 or 2) brings the transfer back better then leaving them on setting "4". Slow motion would be cool, not sure if it will work.
 
VA VIPERAM said:
Viper master/slave and a centerforce clutch is the real answer (as others have mentioned).
Here are some cheaper "bandaids" :D Redline tranny fluid helps. Even the stock shifter works well if you remove the isolator and bolt it solid. I put my isolator back in because of the harmonics resonating up through the shifter (20 years ago, I probably would have left it.;) ). The easiest solution I have found is to only take 2nd gear to about 5300. If you go higher, the counterweights on the stock clutch overpower the stock slave cyclinder and the clutch isn't fully released. You can go higher in the other gears without a problem.
Click to expand...

Good point about RPMs. I found myself doing this also. Short shifting from 2nd - 3rd!!
 
VA VIPERAM said:
Viper master/slave and a centerforce clutch is the real answer (as others have mentioned).
Here are some cheaper "bandaids" :D Redline tranny fluid helps. Even the stock shifter works well if you remove the isolator and bolt it solid. I put my isolator back in because of the harmonics resonating up through the shifter (20 years ago, I probably would have left it.;) ). The easiest solution I have found is to only take 2nd gear to about 5300. If you go higher, the counterweights on the stock clutch overpower the stock slave cyclinder and the clutch isn't fully released. You can go higher in the other gears without a problem.
Click to expand...
Only problem with that technique is that it puts you lower into the power band when you get into 3rd gear. Your ETs would be much better if you get a little deeper into the curve.:dontknow:
 
mutt had one for sale a while back, dont know if he still has it.
 
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