Hey guys! Been lurking the forums since I purchased my 2005 Ram SRT-10 about 2 months ago and unfortunately have an issue. Bought the truck with 77K miles on it and the thing ran great for the first week of ownership. Didn't drive it like a race car, just the occasional pedal to the floor to feel that power. Long story short, driving normal through town, it started running rough. Babied it 2 miles home and eventually got a code. Running rich and O2 sensor. After checking fuel pressure and replacing O2 sensor in hopes of a quick fix, I had to take to a dealership for further diagnosis. They determined I had a burnt intake valve on cylinder #8. I decided to do the tear down myself to save about $2K. I have been tearing down over the past couple weeks when I have the spare time. Anyway, I got the valve cover off today and found the issue was defintely with the intake valve on cylinder #8, but it is more than a burnt valve, it is a broken valve. Still have to finish the tear down and pull the cylinder head off. I know of course to look for the valve end that broke off and check for piston and piston wall damage, but is there anything else I need to check? Head will be going to machine shop for them to do their work. What typically causes a broken intake valve? I had no knocking/ticking, and the engine ran, just rough and rough idle. It was just was running super rich on the passenger side intake due to the exhaust gas running back into the intake. Sorry for the long post. Just want to get my "new" baby up and running. That 1 week of driving wasn't enough!
Intake Valve Issue (Looking for advice.)
- Thread starter nighcore
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IronAffliction
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Sorry to hear that man. I also had major issues with mine after buying it. As far as what causes that not completely sure others will definitely chime in. Maybe the valve seal kept the valve high enough so it didnt hit the piston hopefully thats true. I got lucky when i broke a valve spring. It is weird that you didny have any knocking or ticking. Good luck with anything and if you need any advice on the tear down or any questions feel free to ask i have been there plus a lot of knowlege on this forum
Actually after getting my head out of my butt, it seems that it is the push rod on the cylinder #8 intake valve that is broken, not the valve itself. Hopefully will finish that side of the tear down tomorrow. Hoping the other end of the push rod is sitting somewhere tucked away and didn't cause any piston or head damage, especially since there was no engine noise when it started initially acting up and even after driving it to the dealership about 15 miles away. :-\
I am sure I will know more with the head pulled off, but prior to this happening, I was getting what I thought to be a belt squeal, that changed with engine RPMs, just as most belt squeals actually do. Once warm, it sometimes would go away temporarily or quiet down. I am thinking maybe that noise was caused from the lifter sticking and squealing on the camshaft possibly? Then the stuck lifter would possibly be my cause of the pushrod breaking.
If that is the case, I guess instead of just replacing all my upper gaskets, ignition coils, and wires since I am already torn down this far, I might as well replace the timing chain and pull the camshaft to check it. I don't plan on doing any major mods to this thing, as the 500HP is plenty enough for me to get myself into trouble, so would you guys suggest just sticking with factory replacement parts for everything, or should I go ahead and put better parts in it while I'm into the engine?
I say do whatever you can afford while you're in there. It's already torn down. May as well upgrade. I'd definitely consider a different cam if you're going that deep. But that's just my preference. I'd wind up getting the heads done and all sorts of other goodies just because I don't wanna do the job twice haha.
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
Sounds like weak valve springs and control of valvetrain
May have caused it. Seen many like this. Might as well pull heads with fingers crossed and hope a piston isn't cracked. It's usually the case.
New springs, valve seals, pushrods and cam would be a good list to start with.
May have caused it. Seen many like this. Might as well pull heads with fingers crossed and hope a piston isn't cracked. It's usually the case.
New springs, valve seals, pushrods and cam would be a good list to start with.
sinus19
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Im part of that wagon as well...mine lasted 2 weeks when i noticed the same issues as you. And what do you know, after taking the valve cover, BAM, cylinder 8 pushrod was broken. Tore the sucker down and realized i had 3 burned valves and 2 damaged main bearings. Ended up doing a complete rebuilt. And as for upgrades, i went with all new 2.02/1.60 valves and thicker pushrods. Good luck!
Chuck B
Full Access Member
Hate hearing about engine issues, however, seems you have enough knowledge and skill to get it handled. Mine has over 160K and runs as good as the day I drove it off the dealer lot. I do need to pull the intake and replace spark wires and ignition coils. Probably need to pull the injectors and test fire them to see how they are doing or just replace all.
I hope to have time over the next few days to finish my tear down and definitely crossing my fingers that other half of the push rod is sitting somewhere safe in the valley and hasn't beat he hell out of anything. Dealership diagnosed it as a burnt intake valve, but I opted to save about $2000 on their estimate and do most the manual labor myself. Going to be sending the heads to machine shop to be checked and a valve job done. So will probably be replacing all valves, guides, springs, push rods, etc. I'm just praying that since I never heard any ticking or knocking that I MAY have gotten lucky. Do you suggest I replace with all factory parts or are there better options? Keep in mind, I don't plan on any crazy mods anytime soon. Especially since I just got the truck and am having to put a chunk into it after only a week of driving.
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VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
I hope to have time over the next few days to finish my tear down and definitely crossing my fingers that other half of the push rod is sitting somewhere safe in the valley and hasn't beat he hell out of anything. Dealership diagnosed it as a burnt intake valve, but I opted to save about $2000 on their estimate and do most the manual labor myself. Going to be sending the heads to machine shop to be checked and a valve job done. So will probably be replacing all valves, guides, springs, push rods, etc. I'm just praying that since I never heard any ticking or knocking that I MAY have gotten lucky. Do you suggest I replace with all factory parts or are there better options? Keep in mind, I don't plan on any crazy mods anytime soon. Especially since I just got the truck and am having to put a chunk into it after only a week of driving.
Heads should be sent to a reputable Viper shop whether myself or others can get you fixed up. There are many parts that are getting hard to find and they'll spend forever at a machine shop trying to locate or make alternative parts work and you don't wanna go through that.
[email protected] is my email. Give me a shout for a faster response.
Some factory parts are great when available, the rest aftermarket is fine.
IronAffliction
Full Access Member
Do you plan on doing the tear down yourself? If so removing the cam can be a bi*** at least it was for me. From experience it is a lot easier if you pull the whole motor out to do it because you have to remove the oil pan to take the pick up line out so you can remove the timing chain cover. I did it with the motor in just more of a pain. Also definitely buy the bigger pushrods as i have heard stock ones are known to bend
sinus19
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3,000k.. saved my self anither 3k by doing it my self. I had my local speed shop repair my heads.. he had never touched a Viper head. But the way both see it as was that it no different then a v8 head... he just going to clean them, do a valve job, install all new springs, seals etc... did an amazing job. For $350... 30k miles in and still runs like a champ
Your valve job/machine shop bill was only $350? If so, how did your total bill reach $3000? Other than machine shop estimate, I have calculated about $300 for all new upper gaskets, around $350 for new coils and plug wires, and whatever for new valves or anything else possibly needed. Local shop estimated $600-700 for pressure check and valve job. Of course depending if they have to replace one or several valves, push rods, etc.
sinus19
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350 just for labor and he also pressure tested them. I supplied him the parts...Springs, all new Manley Valves, seals, keepers etc. And thats not all i got for the rebuild, i also got Rings, ALL new bearings, ALL new bolts, all Gaskets.... everything was new. Only thing i reused was the Pistons, crank, block, heads, & lifters.... oh yea he did service the crank now that i remember. I think it was like $130 to get it inspected and polished.
I dont know if running 2.02/1.60 valves on OEM valvetrain/cam is even worth any gains. I had to do it because aparently the heads already had a valve job done so if i went with OEM valves, they wouldnt sit quite right. So i had to go with bigger valves.. but if someone here can confirm that they do give you a bump then i might as well do them if i were you. OEM and aftermarket valves are practically the same price if i remember correctly.
I dont know if running 2.02/1.60 valves on OEM valvetrain/cam is even worth any gains. I had to do it because aparently the heads already had a valve job done so if i went with OEM valves, they wouldnt sit quite right. So i had to go with bigger valves.. but if someone here can confirm that they do give you a bump then i might as well do them if i were you. OEM and aftermarket valves are practically the same price if i remember correctly.
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