Is Forged Pistons Enough?

flchub said:
my forged short block is only costing me 8k......good for 1300hp :)


ya chub we know . you have a hard on for 1300 hp ...

but for those who who don't to spend the cash for 1300hp...

this is the thread to make there engine safe with the minor mods .. a lil spray ,, and for those with nothing but exhaust etc who are losing there motors as well.... so for some reassurance and reliability.. what is the cheapest way to get there.. and if they say rods only 800 more then ya its definitely worth it to do both .... thanks for the info
 
To save pulling the motor cant the rods and pistons be changed from the oil pan. I think I read this in another thread. Wouldnt that save some labor time?
 
SRT10VENOMOUS said:
ya chub we know . you have a hard on for 1300 hp ...

but for those who who don't to spend the cash for 1300hp...

this is the thread to make there engine safe with the minor mods .. a lil spray ,, and for those with nothing but exhaust etc who are losing there motors as well.... so for some reassurance and reliability.. what is the cheapest way to get there.. and if they say rods only 800 more then ya its definitely worth it to do both .... thanks for the info
unfortunately cutting corners is just going to bite ya in the ass,spend the money onetime and do it right,or dont and spend twice as much to fix it later .

obviously if u can do some of the work urself thats great but u need main bearings as well as rods and pistons main caps minimum.

probably close to 4k in parts maybe alittle bit less
 
I think the pistons will be enough. There are some engine that are pushing 700 HP on stock pistons and rods. The pistons are the weak point, not so much the rods. Forged pistons on stock rods should be good to at least 700 HP.
 
FlyingLow said:
I think the pistons will be enough. There are some engine that are pushing 700 HP on stock pistons and rods. The pistons are the weak point, not so much the rods. Forged pistons on stock rods should be good to at least 700 HP.


ya i dont plan on running anywhere past 700 thats for sure.. all im gonna be running is the basics stage 4 heads cam, exhaust intake.. and a 75 to 100 shot of no2/propane

wich is umm 500 crank plus ummm 80-90 for heads cam package .. then well the spray.... so just lookin to stay safe with this setup
 
Michael from the U.K. said:
Changing the pistons from the oil pan.

Is this right?,if so it'd be a piece of cake to do,i can't see it though:dontknow:
I thought you have to pull our motor just to get the oil pan off...
 
The pistons can be changed by just pulling the pan but in the long run you probably be better off pulling the motor...not really that much more time involved..
 
You can change the picstons and rods through the oil pan? I would like to see this. I know you can't on a sb chevy motor. Yeah yeah I know this is different but how would you use a ring compresser when inserting them into the bore? If I were doing it the motor would come out, the heads would come off and everything inspected. I build all my own motors so thats why I ask about this on the Viper motor so if people are going to ty this they have all the info.
 
i cant see changing pistons and not the rods. youll already have it tore down.
 
eddie102870 said:
i cant see changing pistons and not the rods. youll already have it tore down.

I agree...I forgot to mention the heads have to come off too....at this point you would not incur any more labor costs to install rods...just makes since to do them............and you might want to consider billet mains..
 
eddie102870 said:
i cant see changing pistons and not the rods. youll already have it tore down.


It's a money issue. If someone is just forging their engine they would probably wait until they had the money to do rods and piston. If like me they blow a piston and have to build then an extra 2K is a lot when you don't really have the money to even rebuild the engine.
 
well might as well do the entire engine when its out.. but yes we know that.... but the problem is most ppl dont have 1500 for this another 2000 for this .. and well its off so another 900 for this and 1000 for that and 2000 for this and etc etc etc.... lol.... trying to make it safe for limited power added... safe not bullet proof to 1300 hp... just to handle a lil extra hp and not lose the motor.. dont want to rev to 6500 rpm nothing like that...
 
There are relatively safe approaches...

How about...setting the rev limiter to 5000; going to 5:38's, with a four-link and two foot wide slicks...if you can get to max rpm in 5th gear before the end of the quarter you will be doing about 114 mph, and traversing the quarter in about 11.40.

Big if in the middle of that response...:D
 
FlyingLow said:
It's a money issue. If someone is just forging their engine they would probably wait until they had the money to do rods and piston. If like me they blow a piston and have to build then an extra 2K is a lot when you don't really have the money to even rebuild the engine.
i understand your situation bro. if mine let go today it would be on jackstands and a lot of my shit would go up for sale before i could afford to rebuild it. im blessed to have a daily driver so i can still get back and forth to work.
 
shade said:
To save pulling the motor cant the rods and pistons be changed from the oil pan. I think I read this in another thread. Wouldnt that save some labor time?
You can but I had my engine balanced and it cost me about $450 to add heavy metal to the crank because the forged rods wieghed more than stock.
 

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